Yup, one of my vehicles is 54 years old, I have owned it 35 years, its never needed an extended warranty.When I start worrying about a vehicle is when I sold it. 46 years of a 2 or 3 car driveway and have never needed a warranty. While still have my 1983 RX7, I dumped a Mitsubishi/Chrysler at 7 months because the trans was concerning me.
Add-on coverage plans can make people feel comfy and that’s fine. It should be considered part of your cost for the vehicle. An XL with an extended plan does not cost the same as without one.
Not just the expensive, proprietary parts are costing more, but the labor too. Buying an extended warranty today using 2026 dollars eliminates the guesswork of what the hourly labor rate / minimum charge will be for even relatively simple out-of-warranty repairs in 2030 and beyond.Cars built back in the day were not as expensive to fix, nor do they have a tenth of the electronics in a current model.
I have a 2012 Subaru Forester without a warranty. I can buy a pair of new headlights for $250.
Headlights for the Maverick with a discount are $1200+ EACH. That's a difference of a factor of 10.
The risk / reward equation that made sense a decade or more ago has changed.
And then go do research to see why it's wrong?Ask ChatGPT for the right answer to your needs
I remember when I was a kid that airport terminals were loaded with “flight insurance” kiosks. Eventually they went away once people started trusting air travel reliability.Anyway, I'm generally rabidly anti-extended warranty. It's generally one of the two worst insurance deals (the other being collision damage waiver on a rental car). "Worst" as in "lowest percentage of premium paid on claims."
I'm pretty much the same way. I mostly don't ever purchase extended warranties except for a few exceptions.Anyway, I'm generally rabidly anti-extended warranty. It's generally one of the two worst insurance deals (the other being collision damage waiver on a rental car). "Worst" as in "lowest percentage of premium paid on claims."
However, on the maverick, buying it for a loaded Lariat hybrid (I think I got all the options but the Ugly Appearance Package), buying from Granger or Fleming (?) was about 5% of the purchase price--for a $0/10/100 policy with all the admins.
Everyone thinking of getting an ESP, make sure you also get the light coverage also. Lights are not included with the ESP.. (About $50 additional)If you keep cars less than 3 years and travel under 12K per year, the only benefit of an extended warranty would be the premium you could charge for selling a car to a privste party with whatever warranty extension you had. You could also buy it just prior to the factory warranty termination or offer to buy it for the soon to be new owner at their cost.
As far as an extended warranty being a good deal or not, statistics are historical, and the sad fact is that "they don't make them like they used to".
My warranty covers my Mav for 7 years and more mileage than I'll use at less than the cost of a headlight. That is not an exaggeration.
The entire assembly costs $1666.67 JUST FOR THE PART ON ONE SIDE...
At a discount it's a mere $1120 for one light, still more than my warranty cost.
How does that compare to replacing a headlight on a car a few years back..
Current vehicles are a multi-site computer network rolling on tires.
Parts are not repaired, they are replaced. It's a brave new world.
While historically, manufacturer extended warranties have made money, recent financials show a much different trend.
If you buy a warranty without shopping around, you can make money for the dealership, but unlike 3rd party warranties that are rife with caveats, inclusions, exclusions and denials of coverage, manufacturer backed warranties can be a good value if they are purchased at a good price, and it doesn't take more than a 3 year old headlight burning out to come out ahead.
Why did you have to go and read the “fine print”?Everyone thinking of getting an ESP, make sure you also get the light coverage also. Lights are not included with the ESP.. (About $50 additional)

Uninsured also covers underinsured, which kicks in if someone has the state minimums. You could technically sue them, but if they have no assets, you're squeezing water from a rock even if you have a legal right to collect a settlement.In that regard, it's a lot like uninsured motorist insurance.
If you never had an accident, it was only a "feel good", but if a low life uninsured deadbeat driver puts you in the hospital, it was money well spent.
I'm sure parts will get cheaper as the vehicle ages/tooling is paid off/aftermarket companies make cheaper replacements.I have a 2012 Subaru Forester without a warranty. I can buy a pair of new headlights for $250.
Headlights for the Maverick with a discount are $1200+ EACH. That's a difference of a factor of 10.
If that 8 years started at the time the warranty was purchased, I'd put that solidly in the "worth it" category. But if it runs concurrently with the other warranties, that's like, two more years past the powertrain warranty.I got the Ford premium ESP from Granger with 8 years of coverage for $1,375.
Yeah that's definitely in the "I'd rather self-insure" category.For the same exact plan my local dealership wanted $3,200 and they would not budge on their price.
I suppose it depends on how much those small issues would've cost to repair out of warranty. I mean, I had a sun visor and the center console lid break when my car was still covered under the new vehicle limited warranty. For me, it wasn't worth the hassle to make an appointment at the dealership and wait there, so I just got junkyard parts on eBay shipped to my door and took the 5 minutes with a screwdriver to replace them.I had a lot of small issues with my Maverick in the first year of ownership so for $1,375 I think the gamble is worth it.
For low cost and DIY items, a warranty may not apply, especially if you have a deductible.I suppose it depends on how much those small issues would've cost to repair out of warranty.
Agreed. When I priced mine out (Grainger), I decided to go with the relatively low cost zero-deductible. , I'm now more likely to bring the truck in even for "minor" issues. I plan on keeping the Mav at least 10 years, so good to know as long as it's not in a wreck, I look to keep it as much like-new as I can.For low cost and DIY items, a warranty may not apply, especially if you have a deductible.
Where it helps and the reason most folks would buy an extended warranty, would be for the big ticket, non powertrain items, and in any modern vehicle, there are lots of these.
The AC system, touch screen, entertainment, lighting, electronics modules,, brake systems, steering, windows, cameras, sensors and a long list of other expensive to repair / replace items is what makes the warranty worthwhile.
I guess it comes down to how risk-averse you are. I'm a bit concerned about the intelligent power distribution module in my Nissan Frontier because the specific version that mine uses isn't common and is also discontinued. So if the IPDM kicks the bucket, it could total the vehicle. But eh, I don't let that keep me up at night.The AC system, touch screen, entertainment, lighting, electronics modules,, brake systems, steering, windows, cameras, sensors and a long list of other expensive to repair / replace items is what makes the warranty worthwhile.
I think that's where our philosophies diverge. I'd rather take care of as much as I can myself on my own schedule. When I had a transfer case leak on my Frontier, I dye tested it, saw that it was leaking around the slip yoke, made an appointment at the dealership and basically told them my diagnosis and what it needed. Tech spent 10 minutes confirming my handiwork and ordered all the parts under warranty.I'm now more likely to bring the truck in even for "minor" issues. I plan on keeping the Mav at least 10 years, so good to know as long as it's not in a wreck, I look to keep it as much like-new as I can.
Maintenance I do myself, but the days of shade-tree wrenching on the high-tech 2025s seem the be limited. I do enjoy the upkeep/repair/replacement work on my 91 Miata. Whenever I work on a car I tell my 11 yr old grandson, "if your knuckles ain't busted; you're not trying hard enough" - and of course always follow up with "The job isn't done until the tools are put away".I guess it comes down to how risk-averse you are. I'm a bit concerned about the intelligent power distribution module in my Nissan Frontier because the specific version that mine uses isn't common and is also discontinued. So if the IPDM kicks the bucket, it could total the vehicle. But eh, I don't let that keep me up at night.
On the flipside, my Lexus GX470 has 350,000 miles and is all original except for regular maintenance items. Even has the original fuel pump, alternator, starter, wheel bearings, and CV axles. Literally everything still works, including the three-zone automatic climate control, auto-leveling air suspension, and navigation system with maps from the Bush administration.
I think that's where our philosophies diverge. I'd rather take care of as much as I can myself on my own schedule. When I had a transfer case leak on my Frontier, I dye tested it, saw that it was leaking around the slip yoke, made an appointment at the dealership and basically told them my diagnosis and what it needed. Tech spent 10 minutes confirming my handiwork and ordered all the parts under warranty.
If the thing wasn't under warranty, I would've just taken the truck to a driveshaft shop and gotten a new driveshaft with greaseable U-joints and a slip yoke eliminator with a double cardan joint. Solve the problem for good rather than risk the slip yoke leaking again on the new OEM driveshaft assembly.