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Electrical crimp connections

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NJBob

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Bbisis13

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Thanks have seen these types in harbor frieght. While I like harbor frieght for tools you may not use alot. Not sure about the quality of those there. Was hoping to find a good brand. Not sure if brands like amp, t&b pandit are still around.
In the boat world Anchor connectors are used regularly. They stepped up when Amp left that market
 

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Yes I do know how to solder. But all over the internet I have seen that is not desirable in auto wiring because of the vibration. I learned how to solder building scratch built slot cars when I was 8 yo. I never had an issue solder and shrink tubing. Just don't want to miss out on new ideas if they work.
I'd think your experience is more reliable than an internet report (probably as good as the medical/legal advise you can get on the net)--what was the quality of the solder on the joint that came loose?
 
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Anyone have experience with Posi-taps?
I think
I'd think your experience is more reliable than an internet report (probably as good as the medical/legal advise you can get on the net)--what was the quality of the solder on the joint that came loose?
Oh I seen it in many places can't recall but I never had a solder connection come loose.come loose. In many cases a crimp would be easier and if is just as good or better why not? Another poster in this thread works on aircraft using them so they got to be decent.
 

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The vast majority of connections on a commercial aircraft are crimped. When there are solder connections they are typically the type that comes inside the heatshrink already (solder sleeve). Very, very few items are hand soldered.

On my personal electrical projects, I have switched. I used to use the all-in-one heat-shrink crimp connectors and still think they work great. But I am now using bare crimps topped with separate heat-shrink. Makes for a really strong, efficient, and compact connection, that really will last forever.
 

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If it's any kind of connector that may be prone to moisture...liquid tape....you can seal all the points of entry for moisture. I use posi taps and seal them if I don't solder and shrink wrap
 

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In the past I have always soldered and shrink tubed electrical connections. I have read that crimps are better. Is there a certain type of crimps to use? And or the crimping tool? I have used standard butt splices but they are not sealed against moisture.
I like to crimp and solder. I do a lot of high voltage (100kv+) connections at work and there's a difference over time. I saw those early connections that failed on the Maverick and between a tight cable and crappy crimpes it's no wonder they failed.
 

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I had a '64 Jaguar XKE and every wire on the car seemed to be secured with small screws. You can imagine what vibration and freezing and sweltering weather did to those connections. They were all Lucas Electrics. You can still buy a jar of Lucas Smoke. 😯🙂

smoke.jpg
Little known fact wires work on smoke ,when you let the smoke out they don't work any more.
 

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Phil Schilke, retired Ranger engineer who ran some racing programs, also recommends only aircraft grade crimps (as I recall). He's posted lots of stories on ranger5g.com, and there's at least one on this topic.
 
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Phil Schilke, retired Ranger engineer who ran some racing programs, also recommends only aircraft grade crimps (as I recall). He's posted lots of stories on ranger5g.com, and there's at least one on this topic.
Phil is a great source of information!! Price sensitive people don’t want to pay for the right crimp tool for casual use. So like hillbilly said, liquid tape. It’s used on many marine applications. The price is right!!
 
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I like to crimp and solder. I do a lot of high voltage (100kv+) connections at work and there's a difference over time. I saw those early connections that failed on the Maverick and between a tight cable and crappy crimpes it's no wonder they failed.
Wow 100kv! Can't imagine that kind of voltage
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