Driver-side audio cutting out

[Fehz]

I'm installing a Kicker LX1200.5 along with all kicker speakers, running new 16 gauge wire everywhere (125w rms in the front), and a pioneer sub. Just using the DSP inside the amp. Sounds great and I'll post the build soon, but I'm having issues.

After 5-20 minutes (depending on the volume I set from the head unit), just the driver side cuts out.

If I swap the front left/right speakers at the amp, it's still the left channel that cuts. It's front and back as well. The right side and sub keep going. I still need to test at lower volumes for much longer. If I have it at 30 (max volume), it makes it about 5 minutes. I set it at 20 and it ran fine for 18 minutes, then went to 21 and it cut out in about 2 minutes.

Watching the temps on the amp, it's staying below 53c. I've seen it cut out at 50c even (before I added the sub in).

I'm thinking the head unit is overheating.

Anyone had any experience with running new speakers at high volume and having just one side cut out like this? I'm going to try to run it at like 15 with higher gains on the amp to see how that goes.

A mid-build pic for dramatic effect..

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[jonshep]

Sounds like, possibly, the amp is clipping. ????

 

[Fehz]

Not clipping. The amp gain knobs light up when clipping and I have been watching them like a hawk, and tuned them with Kicker's test tones. The gain is set quite a bit lower than needed just to be safe.

 

[jonshep]

Well that was the easy solution. Check for heat on the cover of the amp, or wires coming and going. Could be a Cap breaing down of transistor oveheating. Your wiring looks plenty heavy and well routed. IDK, other than a faulty product.

This won't make you feel any better but my old diesel has intermittent throttle control. I have not been able to locate that yet. I am very sure the root case is a rat or a tree rat. These things cause more gray hair and oh s--t moments when you final find them.

 

[Fehz]

The Kicker LX amps come with a control module that shows temps. All seems fine there and it's not hot to the touch. I'll check wires next though.

I also checked temps of the head unit best I can. I'm not burning myself resting my hands on the screen or the module hidden behind the middle air vents. Going to hook up forscan to see if I get any codes though.

Also going to try to run head unit at 10 (1/3 volume) with gains set much higher at the amp. Might be able to rule out the kicker amp if I can push the system hard that way instead. Or heck, use that as my workaround, just remembering what my new "max volume" should be and being careful to not go into clipping territory. The base boost knob has a clip indicator built in, so at least I'll know fairly quick (other than by my own ears).

If I can't rule out the amp, time to bust out the multimeter and contact Kicker. Doubt Ford will be interested in helping me lol.

 

[DougS2K]

This exact same thing has happened twice now on my setup as well. Replaced factory speakers with Kicker 46CSC674 in the doors and Kicker 46CSC44 in the rear pillars all running off the stock head unit with no other amp to them. Also added a 10" subwoofer running off an Alpine MRV-M500. Twice in the past week or so I've heard like a scratchy noise at higher volumes (18 or 20 on head unit) come from the left speakers and then the left front and left rear speaker just cut out. They will remain off for some time. Both times this happened I was on my way home from work. Once home I turned the truck off, hoped in the shower, grabbed a coffee and then went back out to the truck and all the speakers were working again.

I'm thinking this is definitely a head unit issue of some sort. First time it happened I thought something blew. Second time it happened I just thought ok something wonky is going on here. Glad to see I'm not the only one with this issue though. Both times I was listening to music via Android auto.

 

[Fehz]

Set the volume to 50% and was able to set the gains higher, making it louder than I've ever been able to get it before. Amp ran 15 degrees (c) cooler and was kinder on the battery, only dropping to 13.7v instead of 12.6. No clipping and was able to run it for 25 minutes no problem. Either the factory amp didn't like it or the high level inputs on the kicker amp didn't..

 

[Fehz]

This exact same thing has happened twice now on my setup as well. Replaced factory speakers with Kicker 46CSC674 in the doors and Kicker 46CSC44 in the rear pillars all running off the stock head unit with no other amp to them. Also added a 10" subwoofer running off an Alpine MRV-M500. Twice in the past week or so I've heard like a scratchy noise at higher volumes (18 or 20 on head unit) come from the left speakers and then the left front and left rear speaker just cut out. They will remain off for some time. Both times this happened I was on my way home from work. Once home I turned the truck off, hoped in the shower, grabbed a coffee and then went back out to the truck and all the speakers were working again.

I'm thinking this is definitely a head unit issue of some sort. First time it happened I thought something blew. Second time it happened I just thought ok something wonky is going on here. Glad to see I'm not the only one with this issue though. Both times I was listening to music via Android auto.

Those speakers might work better with an aftermarket amp like the key amp everyone's been using. I could run it at 18 on the volume for 15 mins, then at 20 it would kill the left side within 2 mins.

 

[DougS2K]

Set the volume to 50% and was able to set the gains higher, making it louder than I've ever been able to get it before. Amp ran 15 degrees (c) cooler and was kinder on the battery, only dropping to 13.7v instead of 12.6. No clipping and was able to run it for 25 minutes no problem. Either the factory amp didn't like it or the high level inputs on the kicker amp didn't..

This is definitely not related to your amp as I'm experiencing the same issue without an amp. Something is going on with the factory head unit itself.

 

[Fehz]

This is definitely not related to your amp as I'm experiencing the same issue without an amp. Something is going on with the factory head unit itself.

Yeah, most likely considering the amp I'm using has separate internal amps for the front and rear, but it's the entire driver side giving out. Might just be an issue with the sync 4 on the 2025's, so not many reports of it yet.

 

[DougS2K]

Yeah, most likely considering the amp I'm using has separate internal amps for the front and rear, but it's the entire driver side giving out. Might just be an issue with the sync 4 on the 2025's, so not many reports of it yet.

That's what it seems like to me. 2025 is still pretty new so we may see some more people with this issue in the near future. I'm just going to monitor things and take better notes on when it happens such as volume level, length of listening, etc.

 

[DougS2K]

Just to add to this. Just did a quick google search and it seems some Bronco owners have experienced the same thing and both vehicles use the Sync 4 system. May be related to Apple car play and Android auto. Maybe because it's wireless now or something.

Some say switching from Android/Apple to radio and back fixes it. Will test out next time it happens.

 

[Toddman45]

I replaced the dash tweeters & front door speakers with a component set as well as the rear pillar speakers with two-way 4-in and I also added a separate 10-in sub under the rear seat on a mono amp.
I've not experienced any audio cut out whatsoever, but my speakers are running off the stock head unit.

@Fehz are you using the OEM speaker wire for a signal to your amp or do you have a DSP or lock in the mix? I've seen quite a few situations where a DSP was used and you needed to use a simulated load resistor per channel to the OEM head unit to simulate a load, if not that may be causing your problem.

 

[Fehz]

@Fehz are you using the OEM speaker wire for a signal to your amp or do you have a DSP or lock in the mix? I've seen quite a few situations where a DSP was used and you needed to use a simulated load resistor per channel to the OEM head unit to simulate a load, if not that may be causing your problem.

The lx amps have built-in DSPs. I thought the amp itself might simulate the load in that circumstance. I'll dig in and maybe reach out to Kicker. Better safe than sorry and do what's necessary to protect the amp in the head unit.

Edit: oh, I'm using a new run of 9-wire to get the signal. I didn't want to tap into it elsewhere so my fader still works.

 

[Toddman45]

The lx amps have built-in DSPs. I thought the amp itself might simulate the load in that circumstance. I'll dig in and maybe reach out to Kicker. Better safe than sorry and do what's necessary to protect the amp in the head unit.

Edit: oh, I'm using a new run of 9-wire to get the signal. I didn't want to tap into it elsewhere so my fader still works.

These are what I'm thinking of.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_161ACLGD20/AudioControl-AC-LGD-20-Load-Resistors.html?tp=90107

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