- First Name
- Jorge
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2021
- Threads
- 15
- Messages
- 104
- Reaction score
- 149
- Location
- Buford Georgia
- Vehicle(s)
- Ford Maverick XLT
- Engine
- 2.0L EcoBoost
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I figured that would happen so i used my mutli-tool with the wood plunge-cut blade instead of trying some sort of scissor-type tool, worked perfectly and allowed me to shave a little off each time till i got it just right.I ended up cracking the plastic piece when cutting it to make it shorter. I added super glue to try to keep it from splitting further.
I used a specialized tool to trim off some of the plastic.I figured that would happen so i used my mutli-tool with the wood plunge-cut blade instead of trying some sort of scissor-type tool, worked perfectly and allowed me to shave a little of each time till i got it just right.
I followed the instructional youtube video to tap into the white wire. I read in the comments from the creator who acknowledges the situation, but no solution.you should have tapped the DRL wire on your lariat so they come on/off with your factory DRL
Im thinking it's that or could it be within the head light housing, there's some sort of mechanism controlling the DRLs.if the drls go off and your new light doesn't, sounds like it's not the same wire
Im not the most technically savvy when it comes to these things. What's that mean in layman's terms?from what I've played with in forscan, I think the drls have their own lead on the lariats. if I activate the DRL in my xlt it returns an open circuit malfunction.
Then I am perplexed. I tapped into every wire.it means the DRLs are their own circuit, therefore have their own lead (wire) coming from th ecu. so the lariats should have an extra dedicated wire just for the DRL.