Cheap auto-dimming, homelink mirror

[Jim53r88]

Just finished installing my auto dim/Homelink mirror today. I got the Kia A7062-ADUP1 (not sure of the differences vs other model numbers as the mirrors look the same). Homelink version is "HL4".

I found a pre-made triple-wire harness on Amazon. A bit long (10') but it worked perfectly and I liked the idea of the wires already being jacketed, plus the wire colors were perfect for easy identification (Red: constant power, yellow: switched power, black: Ground).

I ran the wires behind the black box above the mirror, across the headliner to the right, down the A-pillar and into the fuse box in the passenger footwell. I used micro3 fuse 1/2 for the switched power, and fuse 18/19 for constant power.

The A-pillar trim I did not have to remove, I simply pulled it out at the top and was able to fish the wire behind it and downward. Same with the side panel piece - I also just popped it out at the top and fed wire behind it and behind glovebox and down to fusebox.

Thanks for posting. I’m planning to do the same for my Maverick that is in transit. I got the Kia mirror V4 from Tasca. I’d love to see an imaging of the grounding point if you can post it. Again, appreciate your post.

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[AutobahnSHO]

I just tapped the wires for the Mav lighting in the center roof console- connected both power wires to the "switched power" so the garage opener only works when truck is turned on.

 

[chilicoke]

@Syntax Error My A119v3 will be here Friday to test this out.

 

[Syntax Error]

@Syntax Error My A119v3 will be here Friday to test this out.

Cool, let me know how it works.

 

[chilicoke]

@Syntax Error , A119v3 only draws 2w ~0.4A when recording at 1440p60 with GPS, basically negligible. Drove all day with it and works flawlessly.

 

[Syntax Error]

@Syntax Error , A119v3 only draws 2w ~0.4A when recording at 1440p60 with GPS, basically negligible. Drove all day with it and works flawlessly.

Nice! Would you happen to have a second cable I could buy off you?

 

[chilicoke]

PMed

 

[rth121]

If I am only looking to "mirror tap" for radar detector, any specific plug where I can tap into instead of going to the fuse box and/or adding some type of tap on the wire?

 

[chilicoke]

@rth121 , yup just tap 12v labeled in my picture in this post, assuming it runs on 12v.

Purple wire out of the original forward camera hardness is +12v, black is ground.

 

[rth121]

@rth121 , yup just tap 12v labeled in my picture in this post, assuming it runs on 12v.

Purple wire out of the original forward camera hardness is +12v, black is ground.

Safe to tap to the camera harness? It runs on 12v. Plan on using something like this (not sure if any of them would fit):

 

[chilicoke]

Would be a good idea to figure out how much current your radar detector draws first, then make an educated guess if it will be safe to tap from there or not.

 

[AutobahnSHO]

Safe to tap to the camera harness? It runs on 12v. Plan on using something like this (not sure if any of them would fit):

The camera is a safety feature, not one I wanted to mess with. I tapped the lights instead- if my work shorts those out, I'll know, and won't cause other issues with the camera function.

(My wife and I have both gotten the "CRASH WARNING!!!!!!!!" notification once each. But no crash... )

 

[rth121]

Would be a good idea to figure out how much current your radar detector draws first, then make an educated guess if it will be safe to tap from there or not.

According to users at rdforum - max 6w or so; it's a Uniden R8 radar detector.
https://www.rdforum.org/threads/125912/

 

[AutobahnSHO]

FYI I ordered a 2nd mirror for my 2000 Miata.

It doesn't have power door locks, and I don't want someone to cut the top, so the doors have never been locked (since I bought it a few years back). The glovebox and center console don't lock, I keep registration locked in the trunk but haven't ever needed it.

I've always worried about the garage door opener I hid in the door pocket. But Friday I finished wiring the new mirror! It's a little wider than the old one, the compass and auto dim will be GREAT features as the car sits lower than most other cars & trucks. And I wired the homelink so it only works when the car is turned on. No more worry about the garage opener!!!

 

[chilicoke]

The camera is a safety feature, not one I wanted to mess with. I tapped the lights instead- if my work shorts those out, I'll know, and won't cause other issues with the camera function.

(My wife and I have both gotten the "CRASH WARNING!!!!!!!!" notification once each. But no crash... )

I have once turned on my truck on after forgetting to plug the forward camera harness back in, and truck instantly threw an error warning forward camera malfunctioned.

Auto high beam also relies on the same forward camera. So easiest way to test for camera function is to drive to somewhere where you know triggers auto high beam and see if it functions normally.

Definitely pay attention to not draw too much current tapping from it, but a few watts from low draw devices such as the mirror and low powered USB devices with an DC-DC converter should be fine.

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