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Easiest way would be to combine the illumination wire with the power wire. But if you didn't wanna do that, perhaps tie in the illumination wire to the ambient lighting wire
Pictures and show and tell when you are done would be GREAT! I want to do this, also! Flying blind without knowing boost level!
https://fuse-box.info/ford/ford-maverick-p758-2022-fuses/amp#Fuse_Box_Diagram
Says instrument cluster is #22 7.5A. I would use an add on fuse holder with 2x10A.
I honestly don't know if that will achieve the desired day/night illumination but that's what I would try first. Fuse 20 will be switched but if the gauge doesn't have a photocell it will be lit when the ignition is on.
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And you def want it to be illuminated whenever the truck is on. I know it is easy to think that you won’t need it during daylight but having a nice bright back illumination even during the day makes the gauge so much easier to read.
Agree, the day night is going to be dimmed versus bright. But I have no idea if that's done on this circuit or in the panel itself.
Fuse 20 is the better choice if it's bright all the time, as it isn't used, but I would still suggest an add on fuse holder.
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Pretty simple actually. Do you have a light tester? This looks like a screwdriver handle with a point on it, a light inside it, and a wire on an alligator clip. You clip the alligator clip to a body ground. A dash frame screw threaded into the body will suffice. Find the power wire that feeds the dash lighting, turn the lights on, probe it with the point of the tester to see if the light on your tester lights up and turns off with the dash light switch as well as brightens and dims with the rheostat.
Is there a blue light that shines under the dash on the center console tray when the headlights are on? Theres one on the XLT. Ok if so, does it dim and brighten with the dash light rheostat? If that's the case, then you found the dash light circuit. Find the wire for that light, run a single jumper wire off the 1 feed wire that goes to that light. Do a western union type splice. Then run the negative ground return wire for the boost gage light to the metal dash frame and attach it.
Theres plenty of leeway in the dash light circuit for adding in an extra gage light or 2 without needing an extra fuse, and since you would be tying it in off the dash light circuit, you already have a fuse. The additional 2-3A draw from a small bulb isnt going to cause a problem.
Solder and shrink tube your solder joints to prevent any future electrical issues with your wiring, and route it so it doesnt chafe on anything sharp that would cut the wire and short it to ground behind the dash. I have done this type of modification and added in lighting for auxiliary gages on plenty of vehicles over the last 35 years. It's all pretty much the same. Back then I would tap off the ashtray lamp feed wire since it was on the dash light circuit, and would dim and brighten with the dash lights, plus it's already fused.
Is there a blue light that shines under the dash on the center console tray when the headlights are on? Theres one on the XLT. Ok if so, does it dim and brighten with the dash light rheostat? If that's the case, then you found the dash light circuit. Find the wire for that light, run a single jumper wire off the 1 feed wire that goes to that light. Do a western union type splice. Then run the negative ground return wire for the boost gage light to the metal dash frame and attach it.
Theres plenty of leeway in the dash light circuit for adding in an extra gage light or 2 without needing an extra fuse, and since you would be tying it in off the dash light circuit, you already have a fuse. The additional 2-3A draw from a small bulb isnt going to cause a problem.
Solder and shrink tube your solder joints to prevent any future electrical issues with your wiring, and route it so it doesnt chafe on anything sharp that would cut the wire and short it to ground behind the dash. I have done this type of modification and added in lighting for auxiliary gages on plenty of vehicles over the last 35 years. It's all pretty much the same. Back then I would tap off the ashtray lamp feed wire since it was on the dash light circuit, and would dim and brighten with the dash lights, plus it's already fused.
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In a related question: where are you hooking up the vacuum line for the boost guage under the hood?
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Ditto
Realizing this is ages, the intake manifold had a hose from the PCV labarynth separator on the front side of the block to the drivers side of the intake manfold. The so-called 'dirty' side of the system. It should have both vacuum and boost pressure available there by splicing in, or drilling and tapping a port into the intake near where that hose is attached would do also.
I had the same question, and searched for 'boot gauge' finding an image on a post that showed the bits and pieces in blue on white. One comment returned indicated the availibility of the pressure.
I had the same question, and searched for 'boot gauge' finding an image on a post that showed the bits and pieces in blue on white. One comment returned indicated the availibility of the pressure.
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