B&O Wiring and Remote

[colinl]

I still have both since I upgraded to an Infinity Reference. I may use them for some other project. If you're angling to buy they're only like $22 so not really worth it to ship (too heavy for cheap First Class).

I wasn't necessarily looking for a screaming deal, I was just thinking that if the speaker is sold in pairs and only one gets used... might as well use the other.

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[bobwilli327]

Thanks for this post, I was wondering where to run my remote on wire from and you are the only one I have seen post this. You have been a great help.

 

[Gullzway]

Now that I finally got my Maverick I was able to do a little bit of testing on the audio wiring today. The diagram is correct with the dash speakers run off of what's normally the rear channels of a B&O amp. With the PAC wiring harness this makes hooking up a Kicker Key in bi-amp super easy on the Lariat Lux, especially a hybrid. The only trick is getting the center channel to shut up for auto-tune. It was getting late-ish so I didn't feel like digging into the dash to unplug it and just covered it up sufficient to make the Key happy.

The center channel does in fact get used in Stereo mode, it's just louder in Surround mode. I find the center channel's level too loud compared to the doors for my taste no matter where I place the fader. Depending on the outcome once I actually dig into swapping the door speakers I may just end up disconnecting it or muffling it a little.

I may add a Kicker Hideaway this week. So for my Lariat Lux Hybrid I just need to splice into the 17/7(White/WhiteBrown) and 16/6(WhiteViolet/WhiteOrange) speaker wires in the diagram in Post 3?

Also, is a remote wire needed or can you just set the Hideaway to DC Auto Turn on from the speaker wires?

 

[Darnon]

I may add a Kicker Hideaway this week. So for my Lariat Lux Hybrid I just need to splice into the 17/7(White/WhiteBrown) and 16/6(WhiteViolet/WhiteOrange) speaker wires in the diagram in Post 3?

Not sure why you would tap the front as opposed to, y'know, the subwoofer output that's already there.

 

[colinl]

Not sure why you would tap the front as opposed to, y'know, the subwoofer output that's already there.

I do think it's fine to tap the B&O 6x9. I have an amp with dsp though, if there is a high-pass at 30hz or something I would probably be compensating for it, and I don't think the HS10 or any powered sub I've seen can do that.

Just play a sweep tone and see what you get. It's not like an HS10 plays flat to 20hz anyway.

 

[Gullzway]

Not sure why you would tap the front as opposed to, y'know, the subwoofer output that's already there.

Why does the Hideaway have Left And Right inputs if it only needs one(mono?)
Do you need to split the B&O sub output, or will only hooking one(L or R) work as well?

 

[Darnon]

Why does the Hideaway have Left And Right inputs if it only needs one(mono?)
Do you need to split the B&O sub output, or will only hooking one(L or R) work as well?

Because the bass of a track could be mixed to one side or the other if pulling from a stereo source. But the extant subwoofer output is already combined mono. So you would only need to connect one channel of the hideaway, yes. Also there's a possibility of a low pass filter on the front channels.

 

[JG307]

Ended up taking the center channel out for now. No matter the adjustments it was too bright for my taste and really narrowed the front stage to that point in the dash.

Happened to have a 10W, 10-ohm ceramic resistor and for funsies I soldered it in series with the center channel. That toned it down more acceptably for now.

I agree with you 100% so I think we may have similar ears. Is the resistor still in place? It sounds like a quick and easy fix.

This got me thinking (and perhaps I'm about to ask a stupid question) about upgrading some speakers and just deleting others. Could I get some nice 6.5" coaxial speakers in the doors and then just resistor the three dash speakers to practically nothing?

Not sure why you would tap the front as opposed to, y'know, the subwoofer output that's already there.

For sure, but isn't that what @pharaoh319 was doing when this thread was started? Genuinely confused.

 

[Darnon]

I agree with you 100% so I think we may have similar ears. Is the resistor still in place? It sounds like a quick and easy fix.

Ended up replacing it with an Infinity Reference speaker in that location without resistor.

This got me thinking (and perhaps I'm about to ask a stupid question) about upgrading some speakers and just deleting others. Could I get some nice 6.5" coaxial speakers in the doors and then just resistor the three dash speakers to practically nothing?

I don't know if you would necessarily need to attenuate the tweeters, or could just disconnect them. The center channel is trickier to deal with. As far as I can discern the center staging is scooped out of the side signals particularly vocals so dropping it too low (or disconnecting) ends up muddling things. Short of installing an A2B interface to reconstruct it all, but at that point you might as well install a multi-channel amp.

For sure, but isn't that what @pharaoh319 was doing when this thread was started? Genuinely confused.

True, but that was 10 days before I got mine and no one had done much work with/confirmed the wiring on the B&O system yet to gainsay the approach.

 

[JG307]

Ended up replacing it with an Infinity Reference speaker in that location without resistor.

I don't know if you would necessarily need to attenuate the tweeters, or could just disconnect them. The center channel is trickier to deal with. As far as I can discern the center staging is scooped out of the side signals particularly vocals so dropping it too low (or disconnecting) ends up muddling things. Short of installing an A2B interface to reconstruct it all, but at that point you might as well install a multi-channel amp.

Thanks for that insight. Hadn't considered that. I just read your thread on installing the new center. Looks fairly easy (as opposed to the tweeters, which look like a nightmare). Are you still satisfied with the Infinity or would you try something else if you had it to do over?

 

[Gullzway]

@Darnon
I got the hideaway installed. Picked one up at Best buy open box, package never opened for $165.

I thought the DC input from the speakers wasn't going to work for remote because it's staying on even when the trucks off. However, it shuts off after a couple minutes.

Edit: Strange though. If I open a door after it's turned off the amp comes back on.

 

[Darnon]

Thanks for that insight. Hadn't considered that. I just read your thread on installing the new center. Looks fairly easy (as opposed to the tweeters, which look like a nightmare). Are you still satisfied with the Infinity or would you try something else if you had it to do over?

The Infinity sounds fine enough for my purposes. I wouldn't mind a wider soundstaging, but not enough to justify the A2B solutions.

I don't find the tweeter's that bad to get at. Just pull off the a-pillars so they dangle free and then the tweeter covers come up. Only once did I have the tab that locks the lower a-pillar into the tweeter cover decide to be extra tenacious and require some finagling.

 

[Darnon]

@Darnon
I got the hideaway installed. Picked one up at Best buy open box, package never opened for $165.

I thought the DC input from the speakers wasn't going to work for remote because it's staying on even when the trucks off. However, it shuts off after a couple minutes.

Edit: Strange though. If I open a door after it's turned off the amp comes back on.

There's some low level signal across the speakers whenever the infotainment powers up which opening the door wakes. Depending on sensitivity possibly also when the infotainment does some powered off checks (for updates?). Kickers do seem to require very little to trigger.

 

[JG307]

The Infinity sounds fine enough for my purposes. I wouldn't mind a wider soundstaging, but not enough to justify the A2B solutions.

Worth the effort or was your resistor solution a "good enough" half-measure?

I don't find the tweeter's that bad to get at. Just pull off the a-pillars so they dangle free and then the tweeter covers come up. Only once did I have the tab that locks the lower a-pillar into the tweeter cover decide to be extra tenacious and require some finagling.

Idk I watched BlakeCars video and it looked positively miserable lol. And clips were broken in the process as well.

 

[Gullzway]

There's some low level signal across the speakers whenever the infotainment powers up which opening the door wakes. Depending on sensitivity possibly also when the infotainment does some powered off checks (for updates?). Kickers do seem to require very little to trigger.

Thanks. Hopefully this doesn't bring back my deep sleep issue. If it does, I'll just have to run a remote wire.

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