Trucklet

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**EDIT/UPDATE**

I made a mistake thinking that the 12v solar controller would work (it doesn't). I'm installing a Victron DC to DC (B2B) isolated charger tomorrow. I had a few solar controllers laying around, that's why I went with that first.
I'm surprised the solar charge controller didn't work - how would it even know what source is generating the DC power? I would assume as long as the input is above some minimum wattage it'd be fine... :confused:

EDIT: FWIW yours was already a PWM controller, but I found this comment. "A PWM solar controller can usually work as a DC-DC converter but be careful with MPPT controllers as they'll try and find the current limit of your power supply and exceed it. Whether this works or crowbars or blows a fuse will depend on the power supply. "

(Sauce)

 
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Dad

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This is just an amazing post! Great write-up that includes photos to help anyone do the same. I never fail to learn something new from this club thanks to members such as yourself.
 

wyouger

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I have been planning to add a bed inverter as soon as my truck finally arrives, but 2 comments/questions about yours:

Firstly, at that price point that has to be a modified since wave inverter so be cognizant of what types of things you plug into it or they won't be happy.

Secondly, I was planning on stuffing the whole thing in the "storage cubby" (vented) and wiring to the 12V DIY flexbed pigtails. I thought the consensus was that they shut off 30 minutes after ignition is cut, and re-energize if door is opened? If those pigtails are truly always hot 24/7 that's a bummer for nearly any project.
Using the flexbed pigtails would limit you to about a 240w inverter
 

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Using the flexbed pigtails would limit you to about a 240w inverter
The pigtails would only be for charging while driving - I'd be drawing from the LiFePO4 battery. Although now that you mention it... I'm not sure what would happen if you ran a saw full-tilt until depleting the battery and beyond. I think most inverters sense a dead battery and shut down but I better confirm that...
 

wyouger

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Great job. I like the idea of a second battery. I am waiting for my hybrid. I already bought 1000w PSW inverter. I an going to modify the remote control circuit to only operation with the vehicle on. Since the hybrid has the 12v battery connected directly to the DC to DC converter, I plan to connect the AC-DC inverter directly to the 12v battery. The limit to your setup is the rate of charge through the B2B charger. I need to investigate the maximum rate of charge for the LiFePO4 and the DC to DC chargers available.
 


wyouger

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The pigtails would only be for charging while driving - I'd be drawing from the LiFePO4 battery. Although now that you mention it... I'm not sure what would happen if you ran a saw full-tilt until depleting the battery and beyond. I think most inverters sense a dead battery and shut down but I better confirm that...
My mistake. I have been focused on installing an inverter in a hybrid I didn't see that you were going to run one off of a LiFePO4 battery. In that case you should be able to pick up a charging point anywhere you find convenient.
 

MakinDoForNow

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My mistake. I have been focused on installing an inverter in a hybrid I didn't see that you were going to run one off of a LiFePO4 battery. In that case you should be able to pick up a charging point anywhere you find convenient.
If I were to also want to run an inverter off a second battery and the controller is charging the maverick 12v deep discharge battery using the profile for it's charge requirements, do I need to worry about the second battery being seen by the mavericks controller and possibly confusing said controller in what is the sos of the mave battery. From what I've read deep cycle batteries are very temperamental about being over charged. Perhaps it would be better if the primary and secondary batteries were a matched set and if so would they not have to share discharging duties to maintain identical sis's?
 

unclerunkle

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Looks like a very nice set up . I am wondering did you also get the factory 400 W ? I have read on this form that the factory one gets a higher output alternator . I was thinking coupling this with the 400w would be perfect .
Anyone happen to know the alternator amperage in the maverick? Perhaps there are two different sizes of alternator depending if you added the factory inverter?

I'm still waiting on my truck or I'd look myself...

If there's capacity, I would like to put in a larger inverter with thicker gauge cable or possibly even upgrade the alternator.
 

MakinDoForNow

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Anyone happen to know the alternator amperage in the maverick? Perhaps there are two different sizes of alternator depending if you added the factory inverter?

I'm still waiting on my truck or I'd look myself...

If there's capacity, I would like to put in a larger inverter with thicker gauge cable or possibly even upgrade the alternator.
Do not know on alternator as I have a hybrid but I believe the heavier alternator is on the Ecoboost AWD with the 4K tow pkg.
 

Captain Pork chop

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**EDIT/UPDATE**

I made a mistake thinking that the 12v solar controller would work (it doesn't). I'm installing a Victron DC to DC (B2B) isolated charger tomorrow. I had a few solar controllers laying around, that's why I went with that first.

Goal:
Be able to power things (fridge, tools, other electronics) off of an auxiliary battery while being able to charge that battery from the vehicles power WITHOUT draining the starter battery. Basically move all load onto the aux battery that will have a longer life span, more power and be far lighter than a standard battery.

Parts:
Ampeak 1000w Inverter (comes with wires)
Terminal Boots (encouraged but not necessary)
12v Cig Plug (Could use something different)
14awg Wire
PowerQueen 50ah LiFePO4 Battery
Terminal Connectors
Renogy Charge Controller Updated Part :Victron Orion 12v to 12v B2B Charger (Isolated/Bluetooth)
Battery Monitor (optional)
Nilight Panel (to be installed in the bed later)
Flat Swivel 3 Prong Plugs

*NOTE* I printed the battery tray, as well as the mounting bracket for the back of the inverter. I also used 3M dual lock for mounting the battery tray to the under-seat storage and the inverter tray to the back wall behind the seat. I may print these for sale if enough people are interested.


IMG_5895.jpeg


First you'll want to cut the female end off of the Noco 12v plug cable. Next, terminate each end with the appropriate sized terminal connectors, and heat shrink the connection after its made. Connect those to the solar charge controller on the panel posts, not the battery posts. You'll want to also make a positive and negative cable (maybe 2-3ft, give your self some room for cable routing) that you can run from the charge controller battery posts to the auxiliary battery terminal posts.
IMG_5896.jpeg

I mounted my aux battery in the space under the drivers rear seat, next to the Weboost amplifier I installed. It fits pretty well, and you could probably fit a 100ah battery there if you wanted to. Use 3M dual lock to mount the inverter to the top of the battery (or wherever you want really).
IMG_5897.jpeg

I ran the cables up to the 12v plug in the front. The original idea was to use the rear plug, but I didn't realize it was a constant hot. I wanted a visual aid of seeing that the battery was still plugged in so I didn't leave it plugged in when I wasn't in the vehicle. So, I ran it up front. Ran the wires under the rear seat trim, under the weather mat, then up and under the passenger side of the center console. All the way up under the dash and over the top of the center console trim, then back towards the plug.
IMG_5901.JPG

The inverter didn't really have any solid way of mounting behind the seat. I remove the little black plastic feet that were mounted to it, and printed a new base to screw the metal mounting rails to. The back side of the mounting panel I made has 3M dual lock on it, I purposely made it a little oversized so that I could get as much contact between the adhesive side of the 3M and the back wall of the truck as possible. I might modify this in the future, but its holding very solid.
IMG_5904.jpeg
IMG_5905.jpeg

Connect the supplied cables to the inverter, then run them under the bottom of the back seat and into the storage tray. Make sure you create a ground wire to hook to the inverter also. You can use on of the two grounds on either side of the cab, they're easy to spot.
IMG_5907.jpeg
*Dont plug in the 12v cig male end yet* The positive and negative cables attached to the charge controller should be installed on top of the inverter cables then onto the battery terminals. The terminals are M6 bolts, so everything should fit just fine. Make sure to slide the terminal cables through the post covers if you're going to use them. Just a bit of security. Make sure all connections are secure and no cables are being pinched or are in bad locations for rubbing and what not.
IMG_5908.jpeg

Plug in the 12v male connector, then set your battery type to Li on the charge controller. You should be good to go now! I'm working on installing a remote switch for the inverter (the one from Ampeak is obtrusive and ugly), as well as finding a new 12v male end that has a single switch/light so that I don't have to unplug it. Hopefully this will give someone ideas or inspire them to do something cool with their vehicle. Any questions, just ask!
Why only 1000w not 2000?

 

 
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