Interesting. Well, I think this is becoming a larger luxury than I thought it would be. Seems like it’s time to return It. Thanks.
That's very true. I don't recall polarity being an issue with incandescent or halogen auto bulbs. I am starting to see some LED's with a non-polarity feature
Polarity is not an issue with filaments as they don't care which way current flows. ONE of ways is for to flip flop +&-. The 110 v AC LEDs that blinked were cured by building bulb with leds which only burned when the sine wave was positive for them one set in bulb go from off to max and the other set would burn when current was flowing the other way. They still blinked but blinking was wile one set was dimming the other set was getting brighter. I thought that was great idea
Ok let's restate the 4 pin connections. 1-is actually running red light and will light both sides using the weaker filament in the bulb 2 - is the right directional and uses the stronger filament in the bulb and will blink the bulb 3 - is the left directional and uses the stronger filament in the left light and will blink the bulb. And walla 4 is the ground! When you step on the brake both sides of the trailer or whatever you have plugged in will light up the stronger filaments in the circuits. The 4pin on the maverick appears to have additional functions for the computer to enable and/or disable when a trailer is connected. I suspect that a male to female 4 pin adaptor would be required to be plugged into your light bar with the #4 white wire in the new adaptor not connected to your light bar. This would be so the computer will not think your bar is a trailer. Depending on how the computer is programmed you may or may not have your light bar work. Ground the light bar circuits elsewhere not through the ground wire used as a sensor for trailer.
