Another Stereo Upgrade Install: Front Speakers, Rear Speakers, Sub, Amp

[nobbyv]

Thought I'd show what I did in my Mav (EB XLT). I combined a number of different ideas I'd seen on here; I apologize to those that I borrowed from that I didn't take notes on who originally posted what. Goals were to improve sound quality, while keeping everything in a state where I could easily go back to stock.

I started with a set of Rockford Fosgate Punch P165-SI seperates for the front. These have the crossovers for the tweeters built into the woofers, so I ended up using the factory wiring to power the woofer, then running new speaker wire from the woofers through the door jams and up to the dash. Removing the doors, while intimidating on a truck with less than 500 miles, is actually pretty easy. Have a floor jack with a rubber saddle and a second set of hands handy. Takes all of five minutes to unbolt it and another few minutes to unplug the wiring connector.

I used some XTC speaker baffles behind the woofers to try and keep water off the woofers. I cut them with a utility knife to create a "ledge" that leaves the bottom halves exposed so the sound wasn't compromised, but would (hopefully) force water to run off the baffles and drip down past the woofer.

Used some foam rings on the top of the woofers before installing. These woofers fit the Metra 82-5605 speaker mounting brackets perfectly. The 72-5602 speaker wire adapters also fit correctly.

The tweeters were a direct drop-in as far as mounting (but obviously using the new wires I ran); they clipped into place using the original mounting clips perfectly with no rattle or looseness.

One note: when removing the tweeter speaker grills, I dropped several of these blue clips that hold them on into the dash. They eventually worked their way out, but in the meantime I bought a bag of them from Ford (I also broke one). They were like $6 for five of them. The part number is W720456S300. They also hold on some other dash pieces like the climate control panel. You may want to consider proactively ordering a bag of them; they are easy to break/lose.

I did sound deadening on both the backside of the door panels and the interior door skins (work in progress pic; I added more than this overall).

After getting this done and putting everything back together, I've gotta say I was actually pretty impressed with how much better things sounded with just a speaker upgrade and no amp. Bass was MUCH tighter and louder, and extended noticably deeper. Would powering these with an external amp play louder? Sure. But I personally think they sound great even running off the factory head unit/amp.

I then moved on to the rear speakers. I consider these "fill" only; I have the head unit panned almost full forward on the fader, so I could have just left them stock, but decided to upgrade them anyway. I originally bought some Rockford Punch P1462 4x6" speakers, but I could not get these to fit the factory bolt holes using the included mounting adapters, so ended up returning those and using some Punch P142s 4" 2-ways. These fit fine. I've seen it mentioned, but wanted to stress that the Red Wolf (or Metra equivalent) rear speaker adapters seemed like they were not the correct part when I first tried to install them. They don't "fit" in the conventional sense of easily sliding right in to the OEM connectors. But the contacts do line up, you just need to fidget with them a bit.

Next I moved on to the subwoofer. I used a Punch P3SD2-10 DVC shallow subwoofer. I built my own box, basically copying the Ground Shaker design for under the rear seat. I used 1/2" MDF (they use 5/8"), but doubled up the front baffle. I also made it just a bit taller and wider to squeeze out some more cubic feet (inches), and added an internal cross brace (probably unnecessary). I then used this blue vinyl from Amazon to wrap it : Amazon
This was perhaps to hardest part, and the wrapping job I did was not good. However, a lot of it isn't even visible when the box is in the truck, and the top looked pretty good, so a win overall (I know it looks like there's a big wrinkle in this pic but it's a trick of the light).

Next, I had to mount the amp, which is a Punch P1000X2. I'm running it with each of the two channels powering one 2 Ohm voicecoil on the sub. It isn't necessary to use the subwoofer in "stereo" as I am, but I got a great deal on this two-channel amp off Craigslist and this was the best way to wire it. I built a mounting plate for it using more MDF, and wrapped it using the same vinyl. I used the factory nutserts that hold the B&O amp on the Lariat trims (note: these are NOT actually threaded on the non-Lariat, so I threaded them using an M5 tap). I predrilled for the amp mounting screws and some mounting screws for some screw-mount zip ties to secure the wires to the amp mounting plate.

I then mounted the amp and ran the wiring. I used this amp wiring kit from Skar. Had everything I needed (except some extra zip ties).

I pulled the inputs for the amp by tapping the front speaker outputs of the ACM using some Posi-taps. I used these speaker-to-RCA adapters from the Posi-taps, and ran an RCA cable to the amp out back. Used this fuse tap and fuse #3 to get switched power for the remote turn-on.

Finally, I added a fuse under the hood near the battery for the amp power. Marked and drilled two small pilot holes, then used two black sheetmetal screws to mount the fuseholder as seen below. I ran the power wire down the driver's side and through the factory grommet under the dash like most people did. Applied some black RTV after cutting it and running the wire to keep moisture out.

I also used my ForScan to set the EQ to "Flat". I need to do some more comparison between the factory settings and flat, but at least initially think it sounds correct. I get nervous when unknown manipulation is being done, so would prefer to have a clean/flat signal to start from. But I will go back to the factory setting and listen for a bit now that I know what it sounds like on different source material in the flat setting.

To do: sound deaden the back wall of the cab and possibly a few other spots that rattle from the bass.

FYI: I still have five more of the Red Wolf rear speaker (and I think front tweeter?) adapters. If anyone wants them, I'll ship them if you cover the postage cost (I think they'd be fine in a padded envelope via USPS, so maybe $3-4).

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[Monitogzz]

Thought I'd show what I did in my Mav (EB XLT). I combined a number of different ideas I'd seen on here; I apologize to those that I borrowed from that I didn't take notes on who originally posted what. Goals were to improve sound quality, while keeping everything in a state where I could easily go back to stock.

I started with a set of Rockford Fosgate Punch P165-SI seperates for the front. These have the crossovers for the tweeters built into the woofers, so I ended up using the factory wiring to power the woofer, then running new speaker wire from the woofers through the door jams and up to the dash. Removing the doors, while intimidating on a truck with less than 500 miles, is actually pretty easy. Have a floor jack with a rubber saddle and a second set of hands handy. Takes all of five minutes to unbolt it and another few minutes to unplug the wiring connector.

I used some XTC speaker baffles behind the woofers to try and keep water off the woofers. I cut them with a utility knife to create a "ledge" that leaves the bottom halves exposed so the sound wasn't compromised, but would (hopefully) force water to run off the baffles and drip down past the woofer.

Used some foam rings on the top of the woofers before installing. These woofers fit the Metra 82-5605 speaker mounting brackets perfectly. The 72-5602 speaker wire adapters also fit correctly.

The tweeters were a direct drop-in, they clipped into place using the original mounting clips perfectly with no rattle or looseness.

One note: when removing the tweeter speaker grills, I dropped several of these blue clips that hold them on into the dash. They eventually worked their way out, but in the meantime I bought a bag of them from Ford (I also broke one). They were like $6 for five of them. The part number is W720456S300. They also hold on some other dash pieces like the climate control panel. You may want to consider proactively ordering a bag of them; they are easy to break/lose.

I did sound deadeneing on both the backside of the door panels and the interior door skins (work in progress pic; I added more than this overall).

After getting this done and putting everything back together, I've gotta say I was actually pretty impressed with how much better things sounded with just a speaker upgrade and no amp. Bass was MUCH tighter and louder, and extended noticably deeper. Would powering these with an external amp play louder? Sure. But I personally think they sound great even running off the factory head unit/amp.

I then moved on to the rear speakers. I consider these "fill" only; I have the head unit panned almost full forward on the fader, so I could have just left them stock, but decided to upgrade them anyway. I originally bought some Rockford Punch P1462 4x6" speakers, but I could not get these to fit the factory bolt holes using the included mounting adapters, so ended up returning those and using some Punch P142s 4" 2-ways. These fit fine. I've seen it mentioned, but wanted to stress that the Red Wolf (or Metra equivalent) rear speaker adapters seemed like they were not the correct part when I first tried to install them. They don't "fit" in the conventional sense of easily sliding right in to the OEM connectors. But the contacts do line up, you just need to fidget with them a bit.

Next I moved on to the subwoofer. I used a Punch P3SD2-10 DVC shallow subwoofer. I built my own box, basically copying the Ground Shaker design for under the rear seat. I used 1/2" MDF (they use 5/8"), but doubled up the front baffle. I also made it just a bit taller and wider to squeeze out some more cubic feet, and added an internal cross brace (probably unnecessary). I then used this blue vinyl from Amazon to wrap it : Amazon
This was perhaps to hardest part, and the wrapping job I did was not good. However, a lot of it isn't even visible when the box is in the truck, and the top looked pretty good, so a win overall (I know it looks like there's a big wrinkle in this pic but it's a trick of the light).

Finally, I had to mount the amp, which is a Punch P500X2. I built a mounting plate for it using more MDF, and wrapped it using the same vinyl. I used the factory nutserts that hold the B&O amp on the Lariat trims (note: these are NOT actually threaded on the non-Lariat, so I threaded them using an M5 tap).

I then mounted the amp and ran the wiring.

I pulled the inputs for the amp by tapping the front speaker outputs of the ACM using some Posi-taps. I used these speaker-to-RCA adapters from the Posi-taps, and ran an RCA cable to the amp out back. Used a fuse tap and fuse #3 to get switched power. Finally, I added a fuse under the dash for the amp power. Marked and drilled two small pilot holes, then used two black sheetmetal screws to mount the fuseholder as seen below. I ran the power wire down the driver's side and through the factory grommet under the dash like most people did. Applied some black RTV after cutting it and running the wire to keep moisture out.

I also used my ForSCan to set the EQ to "Flat". I need to do some more comparison between the factory settings and flat, but at least initially think it sounds correct. I get nervous when unknown manipulation is being done, so would prefer to have a clean/flat signal to start from. But I will go back to the factory setting and listen for a bit now that I know what it sounds like on different source materail in the flat setting.

To do: sound deaden the back wall of the cab and possibly a few other spots that rattle from the bass.

FYI: I still have five more of the Red Wolf rear speaker (and I think front tweeter?) adapters. If anyone wants them, I'll ship them if you cover the postage cost (I think they'd be fine in a padded envelope via USPS, so maybe $3-4).

View attachment 161862

View attachment 161871

Hi, I installed the same brand only in the RockfordFosgate Prime R165x3 series model doors to use the original stereo amplifier and they sound better than the factory ones. I recommend it. I am curious how the fidelity turned out for you by installing better speakers with more power. Do you recommend it? Would it be worth paying the difference for audio equipment like the one you installed?

 

[nobbyv]

Hi, I installed the same brand only in the RockfordFosgate Prime R165x3 series model doors to use the original stereo amplifier and they sound better than the factory ones. I recommend it. I am curious how the fidelity turned out for you by installing better speakers with more power. Do you recommend it? Would it be worth paying the difference for audio equipment like the one you installed?

Keep in mind I am only powering the sub with the amp (I’ll edit to clarify that). I haven’t heard the Prime series, but Rockford in general makes good stuff. I’d wager virtually any aftermarket speakers would sound better than the stock speakers.

From a sheer perspective of volume, the sub/amp combo makes a big difference. It really ramps up the overall SPL at your ears (obviously). I really don’t think I’d see much benefit volume-wise from amping the front speakers. The only thing amping them could help is if I wanted to cross them over at, say, 60Hz instead of having them play full-range now (the sub is crossed over at 80Hz).

 

[AVC]

I also used my ForSCan to set the EQ to "Flat". I need to do some more comparison between the factory settings and flat, but at least initially think it sounds correct.

Nice install!

If you don't set the EQ flat, there is almost nothing for the sub to use below about 55Hz. And, unless you have some narrow band EQ, that 70Hz narrow haystack built into the factory settings would have driven you (at least me) insane, when amplified by the sub!

As for your P165, they--like 95% of aftermarket door speakers--have relatively high Fs to improve power handling, but would have poorer bass response than the factory door speakers. They're maybe slightly more sensitive as used with their companion tweet, so would be perceived as a bit louder in mid and highs than factory combo.

 

[Monitogzz]

Keep in mind I am only powering the sub with the amp (I’ll edit to clarify that). I haven’t heard the Prime series, but Rockford in general makes good stuff. I’d wager virtually any aftermarket speakers would sound better than the stock speakers.

From a sheer perspective of volume, the sub/amp combo makes a big difference. It really ramps up the overall SPL at your ears (obviously). I really don’t think I’d see much benefit volume-wise from amping the front speakers. The only thing amping them could help is if I wanted to cross them over at, say, 60Hz instead of having them play full-range now (the sub is crossed over at 80Hz).

Thank you for your prompt response and recommendation, good job.

 

[Rmengel]

Can you just get the drop in tweeters ? I already did the doors. Thanks

 

[colinl]

Can you just get the drop in tweeters ? I already did the doors. Thanks

I was about to reply, 'no it's part of a component kit you need the front door 6.5s as well'.

but then... I googled. and, hey, they DO sell the tweeters separately!

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r1t-s/

I see it includes a high-pass crossover at 4.5khz. It's probably not wired in - make sure that you do use it unless you have a sync3 B&O system.

BTW I'm just literally answering the question you asked. I do think it's a better idea to buy the complete Rockford component set. The 6.5s will be a huge upgrade for any Maverick with stock audio whether that's base or B&O.

 

[anblatt]

Thought I'd show what I did in my Mav (EB XLT). I combined a number of different ideas I'd seen on here; I apologize to those that I borrowed from that I didn't take notes on who originally posted what. Goals were to improve sound quality, while keeping everything in a state where I could easily go back to stock.

I started with a set of Rockford Fosgate Punch P165-SI seperates for the front. These have the crossovers for the tweeters built into the woofers, so I ended up using the factory wiring to power the woofer, then running new speaker wire from the woofers through the door jams and up to the dash. Removing the doors, while intimidating on a truck with less than 500 miles, is actually pretty easy. Have a floor jack with a rubber saddle and a second set of hands handy. Takes all of five minutes to unbolt it and another few minutes to unplug the wiring connector.

I used some XTC speaker baffles behind the woofers to try and keep water off the woofers. I cut them with a utility knife to create a "ledge" that leaves the bottom halves exposed so the sound wasn't compromised, but would (hopefully) force water to run off the baffles and drip down past the woofer.

Used some foam rings on the top of the woofers before installing. These woofers fit the Metra 82-5605 speaker mounting brackets perfectly. The 72-5602 speaker wire adapters also fit correctly.

The tweeters were a direct drop-in, they clipped into place using the original mounting clips perfectly with no rattle or looseness.

One note: when removing the tweeter speaker grills, I dropped several of these blue clips that hold them on into the dash. They eventually worked their way out, but in the meantime I bought a bag of them from Ford (I also broke one). They were like $6 for five of them. The part number is W720456S300. They also hold on some other dash pieces like the climate control panel. You may want to consider proactively ordering a bag of them; they are easy to break/lose.

I did sound deadeneing on both the backside of the door panels and the interior door skins (work in progress pic; I added more than this overall).

After getting this done and putting everything back together, I've gotta say I was actually pretty impressed with how much better things sounded with just a speaker upgrade and no amp. Bass was MUCH tighter and louder, and extended noticably deeper. Would powering these with an external amp play louder? Sure. But I personally think they sound great even running off the factory head unit/amp.

I then moved on to the rear speakers. I consider these "fill" only; I have the head unit panned almost full forward on the fader, so I could have just left them stock, but decided to upgrade them anyway. I originally bought some Rockford Punch P1462 4x6" speakers, but I could not get these to fit the factory bolt holes using the included mounting adapters, so ended up returning those and using some Punch P142s 4" 2-ways. These fit fine. I've seen it mentioned, but wanted to stress that the Red Wolf (or Metra equivalent) rear speaker adapters seemed like they were not the correct part when I first tried to install them. They don't "fit" in the conventional sense of easily sliding right in to the OEM connectors. But the contacts do line up, you just need to fidget with them a bit.

Next I moved on to the subwoofer. I used a Punch P3SD2-10 DVC shallow subwoofer. I built my own box, basically copying the Ground Shaker design for under the rear seat. I used 1/2" MDF (they use 5/8"), but doubled up the front baffle. I also made it just a bit taller and wider to squeeze out some more cubic feet, and added an internal cross brace (probably unnecessary). I then used this blue vinyl from Amazon to wrap it : Amazon
This was perhaps to hardest part, and the wrapping job I did was not good. However, a lot of it isn't even visible when the box is in the truck, and the top looked pretty good, so a win overall (I know it looks like there's a big wrinkle in this pic but it's a trick of the light).

Finally, I had to mount the amp, which is a Punch P500X2. I built a mounting plate for it using more MDF, and wrapped it using the same vinyl. I used the factory nutserts that hold the B&O amp on the Lariat trims (note: these are NOT actually threaded on the non-Lariat, so I threaded them using an M5 tap).

I then mounted the amp and ran the wiring.

I pulled the inputs for the amp by tapping the front speaker outputs of the ACM using some Posi-taps. I used these speaker-to-RCA adapters from the Posi-taps, and ran an RCA cable to the amp out back. Used a fuse tap and fuse #3 to get switched power. Finally, I added a fuse under the dash for the amp power. Marked and drilled two small pilot holes, then used two black sheetmetal screws to mount the fuseholder as seen below. I ran the power wire down the driver's side and through the factory grommet under the dash like most people did. Applied some black RTV after cutting it and running the wire to keep moisture out.

I also used my ForScan to set the EQ to "Flat". I need to do some more comparison between the factory settings and flat, but at least initially think it sounds correct. I get nervous when unknown manipulation is being done, so would prefer to have a clean/flat signal to start from. But I will go back to the factory setting and listen for a bit now that I know what it sounds like on different source material in the flat setting.

To do: sound deaden the back wall of the cab and possibly a few other spots that rattle from the bass.

FYI: I still have five more of the Red Wolf rear speaker (and I think front tweeter?) adapters. If anyone wants them, I'll ship them if you cover the postage cost (I think they'd be fine in a padded envelope via USPS, so maybe $3-4).

Thanks for including the part number for those clips. I lost three of them this weekend while replacing my speakers. Two of them I found with a borescope and retrieval tool. One is still in the dash somewhere.

 

[anblatt]

I was about to reply, 'no it's part of a component kit you need the front door 6.5s as well'.

but then... I googled. and, hey, they DO sell the tweeters separately!

https://rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/r1t-s/

I see it includes a high-pass crossover at 4.5khz. It's probably not wired in - make sure that you do use it unless you have a sync3 B&O system.

BTW I'm just literally answering the question you asked. I do think it's a better idea to buy the complete Rockford component set. The 6.5s will be a huge upgrade for any Maverick with stock audio whether that's base or B&O.

Can confirm I replaced the B&O ones with Kicker 6.75 component set this weekend and they are a big improvement in bass and mids.

 

[nobbyv]

One is still in the dash somewhere.

One of the ones I lost took almost a week to work it's way out.

 

[NachoMaverick]

Thought I'd show what I did in my Mav (EB XLT). I combined a number of different ideas I'd seen on here; I apologize to those that I borrowed from that I didn't take notes on who originally posted what. Goals were to improve sound quality, while keeping everything in a state where I could easily go back to stock.

I started with a set of Rockford Fosgate Punch P165-SI seperates for the front. These have the crossovers for the tweeters built into the woofers, so I ended up using the factory wiring to power the woofer, then running new speaker wire from the woofers through the door jams and up to the dash. Removing the doors, while intimidating on a truck with less than 500 miles, is actually pretty easy. Have a floor jack with a rubber saddle and a second set of hands handy. Takes all of five minutes to unbolt it and another few minutes to unplug the wiring connector.

I used some XTC speaker baffles behind the woofers to try and keep water off the woofers. I cut them with a utility knife to create a "ledge" that leaves the bottom halves exposed so the sound wasn't compromised, but would (hopefully) force water to run off the baffles and drip down past the woofer.

Used some foam rings on the top of the woofers before installing. These woofers fit the Metra 82-5605 speaker mounting brackets perfectly. The 72-5602 speaker wire adapters also fit correctly.

The tweeters were a direct drop-in as far as mounting (but obviously using the new wires I ran); they clipped into place using the original mounting clips perfectly with no rattle or looseness.

One note: when removing the tweeter speaker grills, I dropped several of these blue clips that hold them on into the dash. They eventually worked their way out, but in the meantime I bought a bag of them from Ford (I also broke one). They were like $6 for five of them. The part number is W720456S300. They also hold on some other dash pieces like the climate control panel. You may want to consider proactively ordering a bag of them; they are easy to break/lose.

I did sound deadeneing on both the backside of the door panels and the interior door skins (work in progress pic; I added more than this overall).

After getting this done and putting everything back together, I've gotta say I was actually pretty impressed with how much better things sounded with just a speaker upgrade and no amp. Bass was MUCH tighter and louder, and extended noticably deeper. Would powering these with an external amp play louder? Sure. But I personally think they sound great even running off the factory head unit/amp.

I then moved on to the rear speakers. I consider these "fill" only; I have the head unit panned almost full forward on the fader, so I could have just left them stock, but decided to upgrade them anyway. I originally bought some Rockford Punch P1462 4x6" speakers, but I could not get these to fit the factory bolt holes using the included mounting adapters, so ended up returning those and using some Punch P142s 4" 2-ways. These fit fine. I've seen it mentioned, but wanted to stress that the Red Wolf (or Metra equivalent) rear speaker adapters seemed like they were not the correct part when I first tried to install them. They don't "fit" in the conventional sense of easily sliding right in to the OEM connectors. But the contacts do line up, you just need to fidget with them a bit.

Next I moved on to the subwoofer. I used a Punch P3SD2-10 DVC shallow subwoofer. I built my own box, basically copying the Ground Shaker design for under the rear seat. I used 1/2" MDF (they use 5/8"), but doubled up the front baffle. I also made it just a bit taller and wider to squeeze out some more cubic feet, and added an internal cross brace (probably unnecessary). I then used this blue vinyl from Amazon to wrap it : Amazon
This was perhaps to hardest part, and the wrapping job I did was not good. However, a lot of it isn't even visible when the box is in the truck, and the top looked pretty good, so a win overall (I know it looks like there's a big wrinkle in this pic but it's a trick of the light).

Finally, I had to mount the amp, which is a Punch P500X2. I built a mounting plate for it using more MDF, and wrapped it using the same vinyl. I used the factory nutserts that hold the B&O amp on the Lariat trims (note: these are NOT actually threaded on the non-Lariat, so I threaded them using an M5 tap).

I then mounted the amp and ran the wiring.

I pulled the inputs for the amp by tapping the front speaker outputs of the ACM using some Posi-taps. I used these speaker-to-RCA adapters from the Posi-taps, and ran an RCA cable to the amp out back. Used a fuse tap and fuse #3 to get switched power. Finally, I added a fuse under the dash for the amp power. Marked and drilled two small pilot holes, then used two black sheetmetal screws to mount the fuseholder as seen below. I ran the power wire down the driver's side and through the factory grommet under the dash like most people did. Applied some black RTV after cutting it and running the wire to keep moisture out.

I also used my ForScan to set the EQ to "Flat". I need to do some more comparison between the factory settings and flat, but at least initially think it sounds correct. I get nervous when unknown manipulation is being done, so would prefer to have a clean/flat signal to start from. But I will go back to the factory setting and listen for a bit now that I know what it sounds like on different source material in the flat setting.

To do: sound deaden the back wall of the cab and possibly a few other spots that rattle from the bass.

FYI: I still have five more of the Red Wolf rear speaker (and I think front tweeter?) adapters. If anyone wants them, I'll ship them if you cover the postage cost (I think they'd be fine in a padded envelope via USPS, so maybe $3-4).

Where in FORScan do you set the EQ to flat?

 

[nobbyv]

Where in FORScan do you set the EQ to flat?

See post #12 from rallyshark:
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/forscan-flat-eq-before-key200-4.37908/

 

[metomwhou]

Great write up and thanks for sharing! Haven't even gotten my truck and I'm spending money left and right on "upgrades"!!

I'm a bit confused by this part:
"Used a fuse tap and fuse #3 to get switched power." Is that for the remote turn-on?

"Finally, I added a fuse under the dash for the amp power. Marked and drilled two small pilot holes, then used two black sheetmetal screws to mount the fuseholder as seen below." - Did you mean under the hood, like the picture shows? If not, this would be a third power source:
1. "fuse #3 to get switched power"
2. "fuse under the dash for the amp power"
3. power from the battery as shown in the photo.

 

[nobbyv]

Great write up and thanks for sharing! Haven't even gotten my truck and I'm spending money left and right on "upgrades"!!

I'm a bit confused by this part:
"Used a fuse tap and fuse #3 to get switched power." Is that for the remote turn-on?

"Finally, I added a fuse under the dash for the amp power. Marked and drilled two small pilot holes, then used two black sheetmetal screws to mount the fuseholder as seen below." - Did you mean under the hood, like the picture shows? If not, this would be a third power source:
1. "fuse #3 tp get switched power"
2. "fuse under the dash for the amp power"
3. "power from the battery as shown in the photo."

Good catch! This was a typo. The fuse tap under the dash is for remote turn-on only. Amp power comes from under the HOOD (what I meant to type). Edited!

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