The brake controller sits in a bezel. Is that included in the p/n or seperate? Seperate I'm guessing, does each trim level have the same color dash?
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Adding 7 pin connector and brake controller
- Thread starter MarcVelovious
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People that have never towed and most likely never towed with a braked trailer and brake controller and are only looking at numbers on a piece of paper do not understand the reality.
I am in Texas and it is of interest that you are allowed to pull a trailer with gross weight up to 15,000 lbs without brakes on trailer (presumably to allow a vehicle without brake controller to pull it) As long as speed does NOT EXCEED 30mph.
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The reality I was talking about was in context. That context has to do with the inherent danger of an overloaded trailer/underpowered tow vehicle, not what the law allows. You are looking at the numbers, not the safety issue.
I looked under the dash and I dont see an extra connector for the brake controller switch
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IIRC if you want to run an electric brake on the trailer which some people do on smaller utility trailers you need the 7 pin connector in that case. When you don't use one you can use a 7 to 4 pin adaptor.
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You can install an after market switch and run the wire to the 7 pin connector. They usually mount under the dash on the drivers side. That is how my other truck is set up.
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The towing standards are just recommendation. The 2WD without 4K can certainly tow 4K over shorter distances or even on long distances so long as you aren’t climbing a lot of hills. Assuming you add the break controller that is.
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Anyone find the brake switch wire for the aftermarket brake controller?
Aww screw it.
I just tapped into the high mounted third brake lamp to use to trigger the aftermarket brake controller.
I now have 7 pin; 4 pin; and trailer brakes. Since the 12v battery is under the rear seat; and third brake light is behind the rear seat, it was a really easy install.
Aww screw it.
I just tapped into the high mounted third brake lamp to use to trigger the aftermarket brake controller.
I now have 7 pin; 4 pin; and trailer brakes. Since the 12v battery is under the rear seat; and third brake light is behind the rear seat, it was a really easy install.
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Howdy...Probably need to mention to not use negative post on battery per manual page 312 "Electrical Accessory Installation". Can possibly cause inaccurate readings of battery condition.
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- #42
Interesting.
This is a low power, intermittent, rarely used device. Will only tow 3 or 4 times a year, for only hours at that.
Not worried at this point.
I'll keep ya posted if anything weird comes up. Thanks for posting.
This is a low power, intermittent, rarely used device. Will only tow 3 or 4 times a year, for only hours at that.
Not worried at this point.
I'll keep ya posted if anything weird comes up. Thanks for posting.
Been thinking, doesn't necessarily mean much. In order to minimize 12v maintenance charging draw on HVB I expect 12v charge to start (when vehicle is off) at 11.9-12.1v and continue to 12.4-12.6v (I am assuming 12v is, at least in my hybrid lariat, a deep cycle battery since in cab power point shows voltages 14.1 possibly less to 14.7-14.8v max, never more). This maintenance charge will cease when HVB drops to it's deep sleep point or slightly above. I see the possibility of an accessory ground attached to negative post where the BMS apparently is grounded directly to significantly alter readings at least in .1v resolution. While operating vehicle and 12v charge approaches 100% the accessory ground at that point could possibly result in overcharging 12v. I feel the desire of Ford to keep anything from being attached to negative post was one of main reasons for jump points under the hood.
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To monitor charge in a lead acid battery, you can monitor voltage.
To monitor charge in the lithium battery you can't. The computer needs to keep track of all power inputs and outputs. Like balancing you checkbook.
Unaccounted for inputs and outputs via direct battery taps, bypassing the computer could throw the math off.
Because of these challenges, the lithium battery management system will occasionally do a high charge, to detect the voltage rise, or possibly do a deeper discharge, to detect the voltage drop, at the extremes, to reset the reference point(s). So I wouldn't tap power from the HV battery, circumventing the charge balance sheet. But I don't think this is valid for the 12v battery.
I just read the DC/DC converter will throw a trouble code if low voltage side exceeds 16.5v or lower than 10.5v. So I guess anything in the middle can be considered "acceptable".
It will throw a trouble code if the high side exceeds 258v or lower than 120v.
To monitor charge in the lithium battery you can't. The computer needs to keep track of all power inputs and outputs. Like balancing you checkbook.
Unaccounted for inputs and outputs via direct battery taps, bypassing the computer could throw the math off.
Because of these challenges, the lithium battery management system will occasionally do a high charge, to detect the voltage rise, or possibly do a deeper discharge, to detect the voltage drop, at the extremes, to reset the reference point(s). So I wouldn't tap power from the HV battery, circumventing the charge balance sheet. But I don't think this is valid for the 12v battery.
I just read the DC/DC converter will throw a trouble code if low voltage side exceeds 16.5v or lower than 10.5v. So I guess anything in the middle can be considered "acceptable".
It will throw a trouble code if the high side exceeds 258v or lower than 120v.
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- #45
Since tapping a car's battery has been common practice for 125 years, if it were a BIG deal I'd expect a bigger warning. Red orange or yellow stickers warning against the practice in the battery compartment, on the battery itself, or use of some proprietary connector or locking system to protect against it. Have you looked at your sun visor recently?
It is unrealistic and illogical to expect third party mechanics or custom shops to know this obscure page in this specific vehicle, unless however, this is common to all hybrids, and in which case, they should probably know.
It is unrealistic and illogical to expect third party mechanics or custom shops to know this obscure page in this specific vehicle, unless however, this is common to all hybrids, and in which case, they should probably know.
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