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ZeroDay

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I agree. I don't trust the 150,000 Mi transmission fluid change recommendation.
Now you're into the marketing department. You don't want to Market a car, that's going to need more maintenance than GM or or Toyota..
For reference sake Toyota recommends 100,000km (60,000miles) for severe and 160,000km (100,000miles) for regular use on their E-CVT. That being said they don't tow or haul as much generally but their lower regular duty interval is nice to see. I do feel like 50,000km (35,000miles) is slightly aggressive but we do have to remember it's a coolant, lubricant, and hydraulic fluid all at the same time.
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Glen Baker LLC

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For reference sake Toyota recommends 100,000km (60,000miles) for severe and 160,000km (100,000miles) for regular use. That being said they don't tow or haul as much generally but their lower regular duty interval is nice to see. I do feel like 50,000km (35,000miles) is slightly aggressive but we do have to remember it's a coolant, lubricant, and hydraulic fluid all at the same time.
What is Toyota Tacoma's regular Duty interval recommendation for transmission fluid changes?
 

ZeroDay

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What is Toyota Tacoma's regular Duty interval recommendation for transmission fluid changes?
I honestly couldn't find anywhere where it says to change it at all with info direct from Toyota for the hybrid. I did find an unverified source that said 30-60,000 miles for severe. Probably the same 100,000miles.
 

HeyBales

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The Hybrid Transmission fluid is only good for 50,000km (35,000miles) as per the severe service interval provided by my dealership.
One extreme the marketing side.

Other extreme those with vested interest in more money for them doing it, or not separating hybrid from others due to mistake or ignorance.

We've had the posts showing dealer paperwork with recommended 20 or 30K service - including AWD or ICE-only services that can't be done on FWD or not on hybrid.

Car Care Nut has some recommendations based on longevity for similar Toyota systems, and very different usage case to normal tranny.
75K/7.5 yrs I noted from video.
 

mikepoole

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If it's special then I have it too on my '24 XL... a definite little extra power available before the ICE kicks in when in eco mode, even after any initial HVB surplus is used. I myself don't notice it as "over the 10% line", more so a little extra torque before hitting the line.

Next time you're in the clear on a flat road, accelerate up to 10-15mph in (electric) normal, then shift to eco while keeping your accelerator pressure constant- you'll feel the extra oomph as the mode engages.

And the long term MPG math works for me as well- although one's driving style will always make a difference, arguably as much or more than the mode

mp


You did see my power meter right?
On my already stated 24XLT.
Yours is different than that?
Picture please.

And that blue bar is the EV Coach option for MyView.

I tried last night on flat road with 60% HVB SOC - no difference in going above 10% in Normal or Eco mode.
Don't let your truck get any software updates - you got something special going on.
 

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HeyBales

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If it's special then I have it too on my '24 XL... a definite little extra power available before the ICE kicks in when in eco mode, even after any initial HVB surplus is used. I myself don't notice it as "over the 10% line", more so a little extra torque before hitting the line.

Next time you're in the clear on a flat road, accelerate up to 10-15mph in (electric) normal, then shift to eco while keeping your accelerator pressure constant- you'll feel the extra oomph as the mode engages.

And the long term MPG math works for me as well- although one's driving style will always make a difference, arguably as much or more than the mode

mp
There is a change to the mapping of the Go pedal between the modes.
You can feel that difference under ICE power too.
I don't think that's what's being talked about.
Ice is even more, "spongy"?

Because in my case the Go pedal was pressed the same % (that's a scanner PID), while the power back off.
That's exactly the effect - gives a bigger range to the initial use of the Go pedal to hit the same power levels, allows more precision.
So have to press on the Go pedal more to have the same power level.
So what was visually seen was EV blue bar top of the blue rectangle/10% mark - press Eco mode with pedal same %, blue bar dropped down, had to press it more to get it maxed out again - still at 10% limit.

I try to get a log file of the pertinent info - never looked for a PID for drive mode, that would be nice to include to match up with traction motor torque and HVB amps.
 

mikepoole

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That torque/amp/% would be great to see a comparison of...

I'll pay more attention to this for a little while to get a better sense of what the EV bar behavior is (that and feel is all I have on the XL to judge in the moment)- although to be clear when I switch to Eco mode with stationary pedal I feel an increase of power, regardless of the EV bar- isn't that opposite to the remapping you mention?

mp



There is a change to the mapping of the Go pedal between the modes.
You can feel that difference under ICE power too.
I don't think that's what's being talked about.
Ice is even more, "spongy"?

Because in my case the Go pedal was pressed the same % (that's a scanner PID), while the power back off.
That's exactly the effect - gives a bigger range to the initial use of the Go pedal to hit the same power levels, allows more precision.
So have to press on the Go pedal more to have the same power level.
So what was visually seen was EV blue bar top of the blue rectangle/10% mark - press Eco mode with pedal same %, blue bar dropped down, had to press it more to get it maxed out again - still at 10% limit.

I try to get a log file of the pertinent info - never looked for a PID for drive mode, that would be nice to include to match up with traction motor torque and HVB amps.
 

HeyBales

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That torque/amp/% would be great to see a comparison of...

I'll pay more attention to this for a little while to get a better sense of what the EV bar behavior is (that and feel is all I have on the XL to judge in the moment)- although to be clear when I switch to Eco mode with stationary pedal I feel an increase of power, regardless of the EV bar- isn't that opposite to the remapping you mention?

mp
Should be.
I have some bumpy roads that if I'm pressed close to the 10% line a bump in Normal will push me over and ICE turns on. Because my foot pushed the pedal just that extra bit with the jolt.
If in Eco, it doesn't happen.

This is noticeable especially because it's a flattish road I could keep going in EV mode very easily to the stop sign at the limit.
So the stupid bumps get the ICE on early which now stays on until at 40% SOC. Turns off right as I reach stop sign, and then right back on again to get on to higher speed road.
I have few places on normal route I can milk EV - hate to miss the few.
Gotta a better road in mind though for test.
 

GreyCacti

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I agree. I don't trust the 150,000 Mi transmission fluid change recommendation.
Now you're into the marketing department. You don't want to Market a car, that's going to need more maintenance than GM or or Toyota..
I did mine before 50k miles. I think it's crazy to think that fluid can last so long under daily use. Another person mentioned his dealer said 30k miles. If you tow or haul it's probably worth going with the 30k change.
 

SRQAMT

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I did mine before 50k miles. I think it's crazy to think that fluid can last so long under daily use. Another person mentioned his dealer said 30k miles. If you tow or haul it's probably worth going with the 30k change.
My dealer is still trying to sell me on 5k oil changes on a hybrid with 10k miles and full synthetic oil, so forgive me if I completely disregard what the dealer says.
 
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GreyCacti

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My dealer is still trying to sell me on 5k oil changes on a hybrid with 10k miles and full synthetic oil, so forgive me if I completely disregard what the dealer says.
Oil changes I do 10k. there is still life left in the oil meter, but transmission it's probably good idea to do earlier than they say.
The hybrid engine really isn't as tough on the oil as a regular engine.
 

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I forgot about slippery mode. Just tried it today again first time in warmer weather. So, first, mine is AWD and second, I've got the fat winters on still (we were still getting ice and snowstorm threats into may, then I got kept busy with BS) Anyway, 20 mile trip, no highway, 41mpg out, 45mpg back, whereas on similar runs I have been seeing 36mpg in eco and 39-40 in normal.

Though weirdly, it does seem to favor running the gas earlier into the "getting up to speed" phase, like kicks in at 20mph, but then you can back off and let it run at 50mph or so on electric until it's done. Where normal mode, I can get it to get up to 50 on electric, so you'd think that was better, but somehow isn't. Maybe it's that you make more miles under electric like that vs using it to accelerate.
 

HeyBales

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I forgot about slippery mode. Just tried it today again first time in warmer weather. So, first, mine is AWD and second, I've got the fat winters on still (we were still getting ice and snowstorm threats into may, then I got kept busy with BS) Anyway, 20 mile trip, no highway, 41mpg out, 45mpg back, whereas on similar runs I have been seeing 36mpg in eco and 39-40 in normal.

Though weirdly, it does seem to favor running the gas earlier into the "getting up to speed" phase, like kicks in at 20mph, but then you can back off and let it run at 50mph or so on electric until it's done. Where normal mode, I can get it to get up to 50 on electric, so you'd think that was better, but somehow isn't. Maybe it's that you make more miles under electric like that vs using it to accelerate.
That's why driving for best fuel economy in ICE only vehicle still can apply to best HVB use in hybrids/EV's.

It's like wasting your HVB eeking up that incline just to reach the top with HVB drained down and ICE starting for recharge - just as you now regen down the hill or use ICE on a long level that the motor could have handled easily.
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