2022 XLT rear speaker "open circuit" DTS following Kicker key 200.4 install

[jcgaskil]

Has anyone encountered an open circuit DTS on the ACM after installing an aftermarket amplifier? I installed a kicker key 200.4 using a plugnplaykit harness, replacing my rear pillar speakers with Kicker coax and front door with Focals. The system sounds great and the rear speakers appear to work perfectly. BUT - the truck is throwing a DTS telling me that both speakers 3 and 4 have an open circuit. I've never seen this before and I'm having trouble isolating the cause. Any ideas?

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[entheogen]

Hey there, I've just done a similar install--adding a kicker key 200.4 with new front speakers and tweeters with a passive crossover. I at first thought it was because I'd left the tweeter line open due to the way my crossovers were situated. However, after putting a dummy load on them I'm starting to think it's because of the kicker key.

My best guess is because the key is between the speakers and the head unit, they appear disconnected or open because they're not longer managed by the ACM. I haven't had any audio issues with the setup either. I'm no audio professional so the rest is mostly redneck engineering guess work but I'm guessing one of the only ways to fix this "open line" would be to add in a dummy load in parallel to the kicker key hookup. That way the ACM could detect that instead of the open connection it seems to think is there on the key. I'm not sure if there's any benefit to that though and I'm hesitant to try it because I don't like the idea of the added heat and load on the system.

That said, I've been noticing a phantom drain and I've been driving myself mad assuming it was from these module faults on speakers 3 and 4. I was curious if you have been having issues with this drain? My other thought is that it could be the recalled phantom drain (they only replaced my battery when I sent it in) but I wanted to check your experiences first before sending it off to the dealer.

 

[Carlitos_92]

Hey there, I've just done a similar install--adding a kicker key 200.4 with new front speakers and tweeters with a passive crossover. I at first thought it was because I'd left the tweeter line open due to the way my crossovers were situated. However, after putting a dummy load on them I'm starting to think it's because of the kicker key.

My best guess is because the key is between the speakers and the head unit, they appear disconnected or open because they're not longer managed by the ACM. I haven't had any audio issues with the setup either. I'm no audio professional so the rest is mostly redneck engineering guess work but I'm guessing one of the only ways to fix this "open line" would be to add in a dummy load in parallel to the kicker key hookup. That way the ACM could detect that instead of the open connection it seems to think is there on the key. I'm not sure if there's any benefit to that though and I'm hesitant to try it because I don't like the idea of the added heat and load on the system.

That said, I've been noticing a phantom drain and I've been driving myself mad assuming it was from these module faults on speakers 3 and 4. I was curious if you have been having issues with this drain? My other thought is that it could be the recalled phantom drain (they only replaced my battery when I sent it in) but I wanted to check your experiences first before sending it off to the dealer.

Did you run a 12VDC+ remote turn-on, or rely on the Kicker’s “auto-detect?”

Did you push the "RADIO DETECT" button on the amp?

 

[Equator Guy]

I installed the Kicker Key 200.4 with Hertz front and Kicker rears last summer, using wiring kit from Crutchfield. Also used Auto turn on power. No issues with battery drain or error codes. I don't think I used the Radio Detect switch, which is supposed to act like a dummy load, if I recall correctly. Might be worth turning Detct switch on, if you haven't already.

 

[entheogen]

Did you run a 12VDC+ remote turn-on, or rely on the Kicker’s “auto-detect?”

Did you push the "RADIO DETECT" button on the amp?

I originally had it on its auto detect but then ended up running the 12VDC wire and I have it on ignition power, not just accessory.

I can't say I've ever ever tried pressing the "radio detect" button. I'll go try flipping that to give that fake load to the speakers!

edit: just tried flipping it and the error codes are still posting. I tried clearing the codes in forscan only. Not sure if I need to disconnect the battery too?

 

[Carlitos_92]

I originally had it on its auto detect but then ended up running the 12VDC wire and I have it on ignition power, not just accessory.

I can't say I've ever ever tried pressing the "radio detect" button. I'll go try flipping that to give that fake load to the speakers!

edit: just tried flipping it and the error codes are still posting. I tried clearing the codes in forscan only. Not sure if I need to disconnect the battery too?

If you have the remote turn-on signal, your phantom drain is probably just the usual hybrid issue and not related to the stereo. I am assuming you can easily check and see if that Key is powered up when it's not supposed to be.

AFAIK OP never reported on his resolution - so I don't know if his issue was as simple as hitting that radio detect.

What harness did you use to go from head unit to amp, and amp back to speakers?

 

[entheogen]

If you have the remote turn-on signal, your phantom drain is probably just the usual hybrid issue and not related to the stereo. I am assuming you can easily check and see if that Key is powered up when it's not supposed to be.

AFAIK OP never reported on his resolution - so I don't know if his issue was as simple as hitting that radio detect.

What harness did you use to go from head unit to amp, and amp back to speakers?

I used the standard harness that came with the key 200.4 but did all my own splicing to put the amp in line. I followed all the charts on how to get that working. To connect the new woofers, I used the provided Crutchfield adapters and it was just plug and play.

I'll call up ford and see what's up on that drain thing then. The fact they only mentioned replacing the battery but not having updated my modules makes me question if the SSM 53801 recall isn't a bigger problem here.

(and just as a logic check here, I can't fathom that an open speaker module would keep the system awake to the point of killing the 12v... ) For additional context on how bad this drain is--it still happens even when my amps are completely disconnected from power. I've also had issues where I'll do a 2 hour road trip and then the truck will die over night at the destination.

I'll keep this thread updated with what happens next/ what Ford says.

 

[Carlitos_92]

...did all my own splicing to put the amp in line. I followed all the charts on how to get that working.

You didn't use the PAC T-harness or one from Plug-n-Play? Unfortunately if you navigated that mess of wires alone, that is probably where the error started. Sorry but I'm not sure how to clear it, of if it still being there means it's current now.

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