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SolidWrecks

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I used to use that brand when I drove OTR trucks. Aswell as when I moved to Maui to power my smaller shop solar system. However I had 2 of them melt internally while not in use. It could have been the design or ants or baby geckos getting inside then growing. Took em apart and Im not an electrician but it was a circuit leading to some round cannister looking deals that melted. I have been using a randomly named similar priced aluminum housing model since and it has lasted longer. Just giving warnings. If you do operate it alot. Maybe put a DC switch between it and the battery just so its not always connected.
Yeah this is from my dad. I think he bought it at a truck stop.
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Maverickman74

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Well the Maverick is a truck!

Just be cautious with your use and look into a in line fuse or off switch. The 2 I had that melted did nothing other than melt their circuits and smell like metled plastic, not overly dangerous but certainly not fresh smelling. They did that after a year or so of regular use.
 

MakinDoForNow

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I was not referring to voltage drop, I was referring to the 80% ampacity rule.

That battery may be good for a bit at 265A but you are going to smoke it if you do that continuously on a regular basis especially in that small covered compartment.

If you need 2000W you should be looking at 24V or better yet 48V.

Anyhow, good luck with it :rolleyes:
Do I remember correctly that someone posted that the AC condenser was powered by a three phase circuit? (???).
 

MakinDoForNow

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I used to use that brand when I drove OTR trucks. Aswell as when I moved to Maui to power my smaller shop solar system. However I had 2 of them melt internally while not in use. It could have been the design or ants or baby geckos getting inside then growing. Took em apart and Im not an electrician but it was a circuit leading to some round cannister looking deals that melted. I have been using a randomly named similar priced aluminum housing model since and it has lasted longer. Just giving warnings. If you do operate it alot. Maybe put a DC switch between it and the battery just so its not always connected.
I had a baby gecko crawl in my residential condenser control panel in my heat pump and fry it. Tech said that's third one in last two weeks you might want to dust pesticide inside and around your condenser a couple times a year. Bill was $285.00.
 

Maverickman74

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I had a baby gecko crawl in my residential condenser control panel in my heat pump and fry it. Tech said that's third one in last two weeks you might want to dust pesticide inside and around your condenser a couple times a year. Bill was $285.00.
Our cabin has atleast 350 lil geckos and chameleons running around our house doing Tom Cruise impressions! They eat some of the ants for us.
 

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Do I remember correctly that someone posted that the AC condenser was powered by a three phase circuit? (???).
The AC compressor is driven from the high voltage battery like the eCVT drive motors, not the 12V battery.
 

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The AC compressor is driven from the high voltage battery like the eCVT drive motors, not the 12V battery.
YES! I said it was on three phase. At what voltage? (24/48?) Use that to power invertor?
 

wax87

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LOL - 166 Amps, 208A allowing for NEC overhead. I would plan 220A. I hope your plan is to mount it 2" from the battery and use 3/0 gauge wire.

Also IIRC Ford says not to wire anything to battery ground direct because it will mess with the BMS.

And considering the puny battery in the hybrid, I would not ever consider abusing it with an inverter this size. An inverter this size needs a deep cycle marine battery (or large LiFePO4 etc).

But hey, it fits perfect!
16.6 amps/ output is 120V
 

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YES! I said it was on three phase. At what voltage? (24/48?) Use that to power invertor?
The high voltage battery is around 250 VDC. Ford drives their onboard "generator" on the F-150 Hybrid directly from the HV battery. More efficient to go 250 VDC -> 120 VAC rather than 250 VDC -> 12 VDC -> 120 VAC.
 
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SolidWrecks

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The high voltage battery is around 250 VDC. Ford drives their onboard "generator" on the F-150 Hybrid directly from the HV battery. More efficient to go 250 VDC -> 120 VAC rather than 250 VDC -> 12 VDC -> 120 VAC.
Would need to check my service manual. There's a like 500mb pdf somewhere with all the info in it. There phase AC and single phase DC HV are different. Three phase is between the generator and motors but the battery is 1 phase DC.
 
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Would need to check my service manual. There's a like 500mb pdf somewhere with all the info in it. There phase AC and single phase DC HV are different. Three phase is between the generator and motors but the battery is 1 phase DC.
None of the 3 phase AC is usable for general purposes. Its only between dedicated motor inverters and their motors. Can't be used for anything else.
 

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The high voltage battery is around 250 VDC. Ford drives their onboard "generator" on the F-150 Hybrid directly from the HV battery. More efficient to go 250 VDC -> 120 VAC rather than 250 VDC -> 12 VDC -> 120 VAC.
So then we need an F-150 setup sized to hvb voltage with it's dedicated proper AC output. Probably best to get away from high amp draws on 12v buss.
 
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SolidWrecks

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Is the F150 power boost nominally 250v? I wonder if we could get a 7.2kW pro power inverter working?
 

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Is the F150 power boost nominally 250v? I wonder if we could get a 7.2kW pro power inverter working?
Yes, I think it is 250v also. It probably would be possible to get a pro power inverter working but not easy. And you would have to be careful around the 250VDC.
 
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SolidWrecks

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Yes, I think it is 250v also. It probably would be possible to get a pro power inverter working but not easy. And you would have to be careful around the 250VDC.
That would be nice to have. I'll need to read up on the f150 PIDS and service manual.
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