Sound Deadening Front Doors

[Aaron F]

I was very thankful to find a post by BLUE1870 with detailed instructions on how to remove the inner door panel with the window regulator. I knew if I was going down this road, I wanted to put deadener on the outside door skin, and I would have been lost without his picture (which I'll include here as well). For cost to performance ratio, I went with the Amazon Basics as a CLD. I also bought ZMXT Butyl tape to prevent the nasty rattles that tend to happen between the 2 layers of plastic on the door skin. To further reduce any rattling, I also bought the AggSound 157mil Closed cell foam to apply to the door panel to decouple it from the speaker panel. I am not super mechanically inclined, but with some youtube videos and info from BLUE1870 on hand, I was able to tackle the first door without much issue. All in all, I was happy with the quality of the products I ended up choosing. The amazon product seemed heavier than the previous Killmat I have used. The butyl tape is definitly the way to go around the perimeter of the 2 fused door pieces, and the CCF had a nice adhesive and what I think is ample thickness to keep me from having any issues. I look forward to having another good day to do the drivers door and get the Audison Processor installed.

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[raymaines]

WOW!!

 

[Glitchvdub]

Do you have any data on before/after sound levels?

 

[Aaron F]

Do you have any data on before/after sound levels?

I wish I did, but I do not. I took some RTA measurements with an android app and calibrated dayton mic when I had an Alpine Optim8 connected to the speakers with no sound deadening. Unfortunately, the optim8 did not live up to the hype. I had it configured to run the front door mids off the 150w channels 7 and 8. Alpine said this could be done with no problem. But when I did, the ouput was less than when running them off one of the 50 watt channels. So, I ended up taking out the Optim8 and currently have the Hertz Cento pros running off the factory B&O amp. Because the Alpine processor/DSP was running active, there were no crossovers installed. Until I get the Audison DSP installed, I'm afraid to crank these to any appreciable levels, especially for the tweeter. I don't know if the B&O system has an "active" crossover built in.

 

[Aaron F]

Do you have any data on before/after sound levels?

But..... I have only done one of the doors so far. In theory, I could take a measurement of left vs right front doors with the microphone centered in the front of the vehicle at the same volume levels and settings.

 

[colinl]

Most impressive. I'm about to get back in my doors to add more!

 

[Aaron F]

Most impressive. I'm about to get back in my doors to add more!

Thank you. It took me forever to finally get up the nerve to pull the door panels off after having all the materials.

 

[Lambretta]

Nice work!

 

[Aaron F]

Nice work!

Thank you. I appreciate it

 

[Stradbash]

Thanks Much for posting this! It is quite helpful.
This will be one of my first project once mine arrives, probably next week.

 

[Aaron F]

Thanks Much for posting this! It is quite helpful.
This will be one of my first project once mine arrives, probably next week.

I am glad this is helpful. I only saw the detailed panel/glass removal picture in 1 thread. Every other video I saw had people reaching their arms through the speaker hole and pulling the doorpanel partway out and reaching in blindly to find the other tab.

*note* It take a lot of pulling force to pop this panel off. You will feel like something is going to break where it clips in at the lower right of the passenger door (lower left drivers).

 

[Stradbash]

Here's the link the thread the OP mentions. It has a few more pictures than he shared etc.
Thanks Again Aaron F!

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...or-sound-dampening-install.39136/#post-705256

 

[Aaron F]

Do you have any data on before/after sound levels?

Maybe someone smarter than me can interpret. Seems like an odd dataset to me. I did the best I could to measure each speaker equally using AudioTools from Studio6 on an iPad with a Dayton iMM6 microphone. Microphone was placed just in front of the armrest so that measurements were fairly equidistant. Fader all the way to the front, and took separate measurements at the exact same volume level while playing pink noise via bluetooth. I'm not sure if it matters with fade to the front, but I also do not have a powered sub connected. Data files imported into excel to compare on a graph.

 

[Carlitos_92]

Interesting. Assuming all your precautions kept everything equal, it looks like your sound deadening tightened up the bass, boosted some mids (maybe shifted the resonance of the door into those frequencies?) and the highs are about the same.

 

[colinl]

Interesting. Assuming all your precautions kept everything equal, it looks like your sound deadening tightened up the bass, boosted some mids (maybe shifted the resonance of the door into those frequencies?) and the highs are about the same.

Crossover is somewhere in the 3k to 4.5k range so of course the highs are the same they are coming from the dash tweeters.

It looks like the deadening is more effective at very low frequencies. I'm curious if there is still any resonance.

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