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Sound Deadening for Audio Upgrade?

Lambretta

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I am looking for your experience and recommendations if and where I should install sound deadening when I upgrade speakers. I have never upgraded speakers before. I have not seen a dedicated thread on this, but I did find various tips and what people have done scattered across multiple threads. From what I've seen, rear doors may not be worth the time/money, however behind the rear bench and the front doors have benefits.

I am not looking for a perfect system by any means, but while I have the doors apart I want what will be the best bang for the buck (Removing the inside panel attached to the window track, I am a bit worried about that process based on my inexperience, so prefer not to unless it makes a noticeable difference). For reference I am planning on a PUZU DSP, Hertz Uno K 165 6-1/2" Component System in the front, and Polk DB+ DB402 4" 2-way Speakers in the rear pillars (and more than likely a powered sub at some point).

I'm hoping some of you added sound deadening after the speaker upgrade and will have some advice from you before/after audio quality.

Thanks!
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OleFordGuy

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Wilbur

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Here is my thread on doing the roof, including my instructions and photos on removing the pillars and headliner:

Headliner, antenna, dome light removal | MaverickTruckClub - 2022+ Ford Maverick Pickup Forum, News, Owners, Discussions

Here is another useful thread on sound baffling in the headliner that I followed:

Headliner removal instructions? | MaverickTruckClub - 2022+ Ford Maverick Pickup Forum, News, Owners, Discussions

Here is a post that includes applying Canopus across the space between the fender badge / emblem and the firewall:

đź’ˇ Converting the Maverick side badge to a signal lamp light -- DIY how-to and result video [night video added] | Page 16 | MaverickTruckClub - 2022+ Ford Maverick Pickup Forum, News, Owners, Discussions

Here is a tip on removing the door cards - there is a non-obvious sixth fastener to remove:

Remove door panel or door card | MaverickTruckClub - 2022+ Ford Maverick Pickup Forum, News, Owners, Discussions

There are three good videos that show the process of removing those door cards:







You should be a little more careful than the people in the videos, who kind of horse around the parts of their truck and break off tabs. The threads above include the specific guidance that can help you avoid most of that sort of failure.

The windows are not as difficult to remove and re-attach to the mechanism as you might think. I found it far easier to re-attach the Maverick windows than any others I have ever handled.

After applying sound baffling (Canopus and Dynomat) in the firewall, headliner, the open pass-through to the engine compartment, the rear panel, and inside each of the door cards, I averaged about 7 db in noise reduction. This was even more noise elimination than I had from doing the same in a Ridgeline (4 db) and a CR-V (6 db).
 
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jccain47

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I am looking for your experience and recommendations if and where I should install sound deadening when I upgrade speakers. I have never upgraded speakers before. I have not seen a dedicated thread on this, but I did find various tips and what people have done scattered across multiple threads. From what I've seen, rear doors may not be worth the time/money, however behind the rear bench and the front doors have benefits.

I am not looking for a perfect system by any means, but while I have the doors apart I want what will be the best bang for the buck (Removing the inside panel attached to the window track, I am a bit worried about that process based on my inexperience, so prefer not to unless it makes a noticeable difference). For reference I am planning on a PUZU DSP, Hertz Uno K 165 6-1/2" Component System in the front, and Polk DB+ DB402 4" 2-way Speakers in the rear pillars (and more than likely a powered sub at some point).

I'm hoping some of you added sound deadening after the speaker upgrade and will have some advice from you before/after audio quality.

Thanks!
You can’t go wrong with the Hertz Uno K 165 components. I made the change this weekend. Almost has me thinking I may not need a sub now. I put recoil 2-way 4” in the pillars, they are better, but I don’t think you will get great sound out of the pillar speakers unless you upgrade the head. I’m very satisfied with the sound now, the Hertz can’t be beat
 

HushCarAudio

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Great info!
 

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Snowbird

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You can’t go wrong with the Hertz Uno K 165 components. I made the change this weekend. Almost has me thinking I may not need a sub now. I put recoil 2-way 4” in the pillars, they are better, but I don’t think you will get great sound out of the pillar speakers unless you upgrade the head. I’m very satisfied with the sound now, the Hertz can’t be beat
When you replaced the rear speakers did you use a wiring harness to connect them and if so which one?
 

Snowbird

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I didn’t have a harness, so I connected directly
Thanks, was it just simply unplugging the connectors of the old speakers and attaching them to the new ones?

I am prepping myself for when I do mine and want to have everything on hand before I start.
 

LaxyMex2022

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Here is my thread on doing the roof, including my instructions and photos on removing the pillars and headliner:

Headliner, antenna, dome light removal | MaverickTruckClub - 2022+ Ford Maverick Pickup Forum, News, Owners, Discussions

Here is another useful thread on sound baffling in the headliner that I followed:

Headliner removal instructions? | MaverickTruckClub - 2022+ Ford Maverick Pickup Forum, News, Owners, Discussions

Here is a post that includes applying Canopus across the space between the fender badge / emblem and the firewall:

đź’ˇ Converting the Maverick side badge to a signal lamp light -- DIY how-to and result video [night video added] | Page 16 | MaverickTruckClub - 2022+ Ford Maverick Pickup Forum, News, Owners, Discussions

Here is a tip on removing the door cards - there is a non-obvious sixth fastener to remove:

Remove door panel or door card | MaverickTruckClub - 2022+ Ford Maverick Pickup Forum, News, Owners, Discussions

There are three good videos that show the process of removing those door cards:







You should be a little more careful than the people in the videos, who kind of horse around the parts of their truck and break off tabs. The threads above include the specific guidance that can help you avoid most of that sort of failure.

The windows are not as difficult to remove and re-attach to the mechanism as you might think. I found it far easier to re-attach the Maverick windows than any others I have ever handled.

After applying sound baffling (Canopus and Dynomat) in the firewall, headliner, the open pass-through to the engine compartment, the rear panel, and inside each of the door cards, I averaged about 7 db in noise reduction. This was even more noise elimination than I had from doing the same in a Ridgeline (4 db) and a CR-V (6 db).
oof! Can’t believe I missed that 6th fastener when removing the door card. I was following instructions from a YouTube video myself. I should probably update my videos so others don’t make the same mistake. Thanks!

Did you use a MLV product to achieve that noise reduction? -7db sounds like a good amount!
 

Wilbur

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...Did you use a MLV product to achieve that noise reduction? -7db sounds like a good amount!
I used up almost three cartons of the Canopus, as well as a few strips of Thinsulate and some cheap-o Amazon flat inserts.

My Maverick XL was about the noisiest / crashiest vehicle I have ever owned when I brought it home from the dealership. Lots of road noise, tire noise, wind noise, and at least one rattle. And when I took it apart, I found almost nothing intended to help with NVH except for some limited efforts in the ceiling. You know from your own work how thin and empty the door cavities are. So the baseline for cabin noise was up at 80 db on my little test route.

Following your videos and some other guides, I applied the sound deadeners to the firewall, the pass-through from the front doors to the engine compartment, the ceiling, all the doors, the B- and C-pillars, the back quarter and below the rear seats, and under the center console. I also changed from the pitiful OEM tires, and that how I derived the 7 db improvement.

New, higher-quality, higher-profile tires helped the ride and handling to feel more solid and truck-y, and the sound deadeners also helped a lot in that regard. Not everyone has the time or patience for that effort, but I appreciated having your videos as a guide, and with them, applying sound deadening in a Ford Maverick is far, far easier to do than in other marques.
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