Confused with wiring a Gentex rear view mirror

[Har02052]

So I bought a Gentex rear view mirror. Model number ztvhl3. It has 4 wires rather than the others that I have seen with only 3. I thought maybe I could get it to work anyway but I am struggling. I have found a few posts which show the wiring for it but I can't seem to make it work correctly.
The 4 wires that I have on this diagram are 10, 8, 7, and 6. I figured I don't have a reverse relay so I didn't use that one. I found a wire from my overhead lights that has constant power, I connected that to the "10-battery", I connected the ground and I also found a wire that had 12 volts when the ignition is on. So I connected that to 6-ignition power.

The homelink portion of the mirror seemed to work fine. But the auto-dimming feature and compass feature didn't. I checked the voltage and for some reason as soon as I connected the ingnition power to wire to something that has 12 volts when the ignition is on, it drops it down to 5 volts. If I switch the wires and connect the ignition power to constant power and the 10-battery wire to and ignition power source, then the compass and auto dimming feature are on all the time but the homelink is only on when the ignition is on. I can't seem to get the auto dimming and the compass to only work when the ignition is on.
I have followed a few videos and different posts on here as well. Most of them only had three wires.

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[AVC]

I installed a Gentex Homelink mirror last month. I connected constant power and ignition power of the mirror to the "constant" power of the overhead console lights. The truck cuts constant power to the overhead console 20 or 30 min after doors are closed and locked, and thus disables the mirror and Homelink, unless someone opens a door, where the alarm would go off.

Don't want someone able to bust a window and open my garage door.

 

[Har02052]

I installed a Gentex Homelink mirror last month. I connected constant power and ignition power of the mirror to the "constant" power of the overhead console lights. The truck cuts constant power to the overhead console 20 or 30 min after doors are closed and locked, and thus disables the mirror and Homelink, unless someone opens a door, where the alarm would go off.

Don't want someone able to bust a window and open my garage door.

Interesting. I will give that a try.

 

[Mabcim]

Myself and others had the same voltage issue. The voltage changes based on the dimmer setting for the interior lights. My guess is that it a PWM signal, as I’ve seen on other wires.

Here is my write up on how I connected mine. I talk about this in the Overview in the document I posted.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ge-opener-and-ford-auto-dimming-mirror.32299/

 

[Har02052]

Myself and others had the same voltage issue. The voltage changes based on the dimmer setting for the interior lights. My guess is that it a PWM signal, as I’ve seen on other wires.

Here is my write up on how I connected mine. I talk about this in the Overview in the document I posted.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ge-opener-and-ford-auto-dimming-mirror.32299/

Thanks for pointing that out. I had seen your writeup before I but apparently I looked past that part about the voltage issues. From your writeup it seems that pin 4 from the camera gives power only when the car is on. And then 5 is the ground. I will try to tap into those instead.

 

[A.Bursell]

The reverse wire is so when you put the vehicle in reverse the mirror will go full bright. Either connect to reverse or leave it alone. Connecting it to another power source will keep your mirror from ever dimming.

 

[Har02052]

Myself and others had the same voltage issue. The voltage changes based on the dimmer setting for the interior lights. My guess is that it a PWM signal, as I’ve seen on other wires.

Here is my write up on how I connected mine. I talk about this in the Overview in the document I posted.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ge-opener-and-ford-auto-dimming-mirror.32299/

I did it! I took both my wires 5 & 6, battery and ignition power and spliced them together and tapped them into pin #4 from the camera. Then tapped into the ground. I hit the ignition and it worked! When I shut off the ignition it shut it all off, which is fine with me. I'd rather have all off when the car isn't running. Apparently I should have fully read your writeup the first time.

 

[SLJ]

Glad you got it working.
Ran mine down to the fuse box so I didn't have a low voltage problem. Mine was still too bright at night though so I put a piece of electrical tape over part of the light sensor on the back of the mirror so it's dimmed slightly during the day and is darker at night. Now when someone comes up behind me during the day their bright LEDs even in the day they don't bother me.

 

[Har02052]

Myself and others had the same voltage issue. The voltage changes based on the dimmer setting for the interior lights. My guess is that it a PWM signal, as I’ve seen on other wires.

Here is my write up on how I connected mine. I talk about this in the Overview in the document I posted.
https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ge-opener-and-ford-auto-dimming-mirror.32299/

Unfortunately now, however, I have come to find out that this homelink mirror is not compatible with my garage door opener. I could find one of those kia mirrors online, so I found a 2008 Nissan Titan. Apparently anything before about 2014 used an older security tech. My garage door opener is brand new so they won't talk to each other. So now my choices are to find another mirror, get a "homelink compatibility bridge" or go back to using an old school remote. This is extra frustrating.

 

[TN_Oldman]

Unfortunately now, however, I have come to find out that this homelink mirror is not compatible with my garage door opener. I could find one of those kia mirrors online, so I found a 2008 Nissan Titan. Apparently anything before about 2014 used an older security tech. My garage door opener is brand new so they won't talk to each other. So now my choices are to find another mirror, get a "homelink compatibility bridge" or go back to using an old school remote. This is extra frustrating.

I also ran into this issue with a mirror I bought on eBay. I bought the bridge needed on Amazon. It worked immediately and I haven't had any issues so far. Unfortunately I don't have ALOT of experience with it yet. I don't drive the Maverick alot so don't use the openers on the mirror much.

 

[A.Bursell]

Unfortunately now, however, I have come to find out that this homelink mirror is not compatible with my garage door opener. I could find one of those kia mirrors online, so I found a 2008 Nissan Titan. Apparently anything before about 2014 used an older security tech. My garage door opener is brand new so they won't talk to each other. So now my choices are to find another mirror, get a "homelink compatibility bridge" or go back to using an old school remote. This is extra frustrating.

I don't think that stuff has changed since more like 2000-ish when they went to rolling codes. If it did there would be a ton of cars not working anymore. But I'm making an assumption- do you have something that says that or are you just having trouble programming?

 

[Har02052]

I don't think that stuff has changed since more like 2000-ish when they went to rolling codes. If it did there would be a ton of cars not working anymore. But I'm making an assumption- do you have something that says that or are you just having trouble programming?

Liftmaster security+ 2.0 is apparently somehow slightly different. It was introduced in 2007-2008. At that time homelink was updated to Homelink4. But many cars continued to have homelink3 remotes installed into them for a few years. https://m.facebook.com/nt/screen/?p...=rdr_0sWgaQXcPpg90Iskc&refsrc=deprecated&_rdr

 

[A.Bursell]

Interesting-thanks!

My mirror I got to install is from 2012 and my openers are older, but will keep this in mind.

 

[Mabcim]

Unfortunately now, however, I have come to find out that this homelink mirror is not compatible with my garage door opener. I could find one of those kia mirrors online, so I found a 2008 Nissan Titan. Apparently anything before about 2014 used an older security tech. My garage door opener is brand new so they won't talk to each other. So now my choices are to find another mirror, get a "homelink compatibility bridge" or go back to using an old school remote. This is extra frustrating.

First, glad my post was of help.

I ran into a similar thing with compatibility, after installing mine when my opener died. I replace my 1998 Craftsman opener and bought a Chamberlain because it was a drop in replacement (same rails and hang location), but it didn’t work with the Homelinks I had put in my cars. I exchanged it for a Genie and that worked. I looked into the bridge, but there were mixed reviews. Happier with the Genie anyway, as it is a belt and much quieter.

 

[Har02052]

First, glad my post was of help.

I ran into a similar thing with compatibility, after installing mine when my opener died. I replace my 1998 Craftsman opener and bought a Chamberlain because it was a drop in replacement (same rails and hang location), but it didn’t work with the Homelinks I had put in my cars. I exchanged it for a Genie and that worked. I looked into the bridge, but there were mixed reviews. Happier with the Genie anyway, as it is a belt and much quieter.

I have pretty much figured it out. I was thinking you might want to make an addendum to your guide to help people with my issue. If you have a newer Liftmaster or Chamberlain, you need to make sure that the mirror comes from a newer car and that the model number ends with HL4 and not HL3. The model number of my mirror is ZTVHL3, which specifies that it is a Homelink 3 and thus not compatible with Liftmaster Security+ 2.0 garage door opener. I went through a ton of ebay listings and found a few that end with HL4, including a model number HFCHL4, which is from a 2015 and new Hyundai and Genesis cars.

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