Super Easy Flat Tow Setup w/ Roadmaster Nighthawk, Demco Stay-in-Play Duo SBS

[realshelby]

That looks really good. Yes, the narrower mounting points eliminate ANY issue with the towbar binding up like they do with the Blue Ox setup!

I don't have a good reference on mpg towing the Maverick yet. I got 7.54 mpg going to WV and back with the Jeep ( 5040 lbs). The Mav is probably about 1000 lbs lighter loaded up. But I can tell you it seems to tow much easier than just 1000 lbs should make. I think the rolling resistance may be a good bit lower with the narrower eco tires compared...to what was on the Jeep!

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[BradnChristine]

That looks really good. Yes, the narrower mounting points eliminate ANY issue with the towbar binding up like they do with the Blue Ox setup!

I don't have a good reference on mpg towing the Maverick yet. I got 7.54 mpg going to WV and back with the Jeep ( 5040 lbs). The Mav is probably about 1000 lbs lighter loaded up. But I can tell you it seems to tow much easier than just 1000 lbs should make. I think the rolling resistance may be a good bit lower with the narrower eco tires compared...to what was on the Jeep!

I've towed 3 vehicles with this little 25' LTV before the Maverick. A 2003 S-10 Quad cab weighed about 4200 lbs and I got 12.9 mpg. Then a 2015 JKU Sahara, about the same weight but bigger tires got me 13.4, and finally, a 2017 C-Max that is very near the Maverick's weight but with smaller tires that got me 13.9mpg. So if all things are equal, the Maverick could tip 14! My little test run around town and down the interstate just saw 12.9 for the trip yesterday.

In looking at the Roadmaster, I see that even they are wider than the Demco positions.

If this trip works out well, that C-Max is gonna hit the market for sale. Only 2 things wrong with it that the Maverick fixes: Lack of a real spare so I feel the need to carry an extra wheel and tire in the back of it for long trips...and of course, no pickup bed. The Maverick is the perfect vehicle for all my needs...now that it is towable.

 

[jowensStLMN]

I just got off the phone with Demco...they're having a problem with their new baseplate at the moment, so it may be hard to acquire for a bit while they sort through the issue and can start mass production.

 

[GregMurrow]

We expect delivery of our maverick in a couple weeks. Went thru rock springs on rail, in Cheyenne now on its way back south to broomfield, co. About to order supplies for flat towing behind our LTV RL. Just sold the tow dolly. I may be coming back with questions. Yes, bradnchristine, THANK YOU for your input!

 

[BradnChristine]

We expect delivery of our maverick in a couple weeks. Went thru rock springs on rail, in Cheyenne now on its way back south to broomfield, co. About to order supplies for flat towing behind our LTV RL. Just sold the tow dolly. I may be coming back with questions. Yes, bradnchristine, THANK YOU for your input!

You are very welcome. I just had a successful 2622 mile tow with mine earlier this month. Loving the Maverick!

 

[realshelby]

About to order supplies for flat towing behind our LTV RL. Just sold the tow dolly. I may be coming back with questions.

My advice is to NOT go with the Blue Ox base plate. Wink, Wink.......Roadmaster or Demco will be better choices.

 

[GregMurrow]

My advice is to NOT go with the Blue Ox base plate. Wink, Wink.......Roadmaster or Demco will be better choices.

thank you for that - I started another thread with this list a couple weeks ago and shouldn't have, but I'm still interested in putting together the best package/supplier feedback for future towers...
yesterday I learned to look things up in this forum and found everything I needed, especially with the responses since. thank you again!

Parts included are

RM97RR baseplate (just like Demco mentioned most in this thread I believe)

E74ZR tow bar with safety straps included,

DM86VR OR. SM99251 brake system (the former has wireless monitor inside RV,

and the latter has LED lighting up in toad when brakes are applied)

RM-156-25 toad battery charging kit, and

RM-15267 diode wiring kit to operate toad taillights

I would love to get feedback from anybody whose experienced these parts, or has options they've liked I should consider.

Hope everyone that will be towed can benefit. (I may tow with the Maverick as well, but that's for a different thread)

thanks!

https://www.etrailer.com/qs/412413KK

 

[realshelby]

You can charge the toad battery simply by hooking up the charge wire in the 7 pin round connector plug when you install your 6 pin round that is on front of the Maverick. Then take a wire from the back of the 6 pin round and run it to the battery jump start post under the hood of the Maverick. I put a diode inline with that. But I do not think it is actually required.

Several here have used the diode tail/brake light kits. Several have reported problems with that installation.
There is an option to go to the completely separate wiring and bulbs that you install into your Maverick tail light housings. NO cutting into factory wiring! But that is my way of doing it on the last 3 toads I have set up. Never an issue, cheaper, and no warranty issues.

 

[BradnChristine]

That came out posted a bit jumbled.

Here's info about what I used. I am a Roadmaster fan, normally, having installed around 8 of their baseplates. But absolutely did not want them this time.

Roadmaster Diodes are way overpriced for this purpose. Try: https://www.ebay.com/itm/385511304724 These are what I used and they were easier to install as they have wires to connect, not terminals to add to your wiring.

Demco is the only baseplate ( 9519360) that does not either destroy your lower active shutter system (Roadmaster does) or make for a difficult fascia cut and, reportedly, possible binding (Blue Ox does). With Demco, you may or may not need to remove 4 replaceable shutter vane segments, but nothing gets destroyed, should you need to restore them. Yes, it is the most expensive option

Roadmaster's RM034 kit will adapt a Falcon 2 Towbar (what I use) to the Demco Baseplate. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAVZQ4

Hopkins battery maintainer is a chargewire with a diode and fuse https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-39332-BrakeBuddy-Vehicle-Maintainer/dp/B004RCXB8A

 

[Dad]

My advice is to NOT go with the Blue Ox base plate. Wink, Wink.......Roadmaster or Demco will be better choices.

I wouldn't choose either Roadmaster or Blue Ox and would opt for Demco IF they addressed the issues brought to light by the OP.

I finished up the breakaway switch and chargewire today, then changed the ends of my Falcon 2 Roadmaster towbar with Roadmaster adaptors to fit the Demco baseplate.

Then I studied the manual about how to get it into neutral tow, made myself a cheater card like I always do for a new towed. By the way, the Ford instructions leave out a step. They tell you to use the menu button to find Settings, then select Neutral Tow. Nope, not on that Settings menu. You must select Vehicle in the Settings menu, and then Neutral Tow will become selectable. The screen will completely walk you through the process.

Then I bit the bullet and hooked it up to my RV (a 2021 LTV Wonder RL on a Ford Transit 350-HD chassis) and took about a 30 mile trip down Interstate 90 and everything was great! No issues at all. When I got back, I disconnected and took the truck out of Neutral Tow and took it for about a 10 mile trip. No issues whatsoever.

The finished look with the included Demco rubber plugs:

The package connected:

The towbar and connections:

You can notice that the tow points are much, much closer to the center when compared to the Blue Ox version that @realshelby warns about being way too wide. My first corner was a little sharper than intended as I was used to a wider stance (thus a shorter towbar distance).

While I wasn't pleased about having to pop out the 4 vanes, nothing was damaged. The Demco install is 99% reversable. There is a little triming on the outside edge of the shutter assembly's plastic, you'd never know it. If Ford comes out with a 2025 Maverick AWD Hybrid that is flat towable, I might be able to take off this install and put in on that...if they don't change the front end.

If anyone needs any more specific info that I haven't droned on about, feel free to PM me. I am quite relieved and happy that it is finally done.

Absolutely fantastic job! You have done many of us a great service by posting your trials, tribulations, and successful outcomes. I'll want to lock in this thread when it comes time to set up my own. Did I mention that I installed a RM baseplate along with all the needed accessories on my 2018 Chevy Colorado Z71 only to have it catch fire and explode in my driveway? Yep, all that work for nought. My install on the Maverick is on the back burner until I get my house put back. Your post is more than just informational, it represents me getting back to normal. Again, many thanks.

 

[BradnChristine]

I wouldn't choose either Roadmaster or Blue Ox and would opt for Demco IF they addressed the issues brought to light by the OP.

Absolutely fantastic job! You have done many of us a great service by posting your trials, tribulations, and successful outcomes. I'll want to lock in this thread when it comes time to set up my own. Did I mention that I installed a RM baseplate along with all the needed accessories on my 2018 Chevy Colorado Z71 only to have it catch fire and explode in my driveway? Yep, all that work for nought. My install on the Maverick is on the back burner until I get my house put back. Your post is more than just informational, it represents me getting back to normal. Again, many thanks.

Thanks! How sad about your Colorado. I traded in my 2003 S-10 for the Maverick. I had installed the Roadmaster Baseplates onto it when new in 2003...and had a driveshaft disconnect put in. Good little towed, when I was using a diesel pusher as the RV, but a little heavy for the Transit RV. And... I really wanted a 20 year newer Maverick so I could replace our C-Max and the S-10 with 1 vehicle that would do all the things.

My 2622 mile tow worked out perfectly. I was faithful to not tow it more than 6 hours without starting it and doing the procedure Ford recommends. Most days, I drove 6 hours or less, but a couple required a mid-trip start. It never gave me the deep sleep. First day I towed it from Gillette, WY to Butte, MT. Did not unhook, but started it in the AM. Next day, towed it to Coeur d'Alene, ID and drove it around visiting, etc. Next day to Bremerton, WA where we drove it around all weekend, then towed it down to Salem, OR on Monday, spent a week there, then drove it back through Southern Idaho, Utah and back to Wyoming. No deep sleep notice (altho getting those has never caused me a starting issue), no "stuck in Neutral Tow, or any problem whatsoever. I'm ready to sell my 2017 C-Max towed now.

I never trust my memory with towing procedures, and always make a card to keep in the Towed. Here is the one I made for the Maverick, following Ford's procedures and my trusty old Brakebuddy. Feel free to PM me if you need anything as you get your Maverick set up!

 

[Dad]

Thanks! How sad about your Colorado. I traded in my 2003 S-10 for the Maverick. I had installed the Roadmaster Baseplates onto it when new in 2003...and had a driveshaft disconnect put in. Good little towed, when I was using a diesel pusher as the RV, but a little heavy for the Transit RV. And... I really wanted a 20 year newer Maverick so I could replace our C-Max and the S-10 with 1 vehicle that would do all the things.

My 2622 mile tow worked out perfectly. I was faithful to not tow it more than 6 hours without starting it and doing the procedure Ford recommends. Most days, I drove 6 hours or less, but a couple required a mid-trip start. It never gave me the deep sleep. First day I towed it from Gillette, WY to Butte, MT. Did not unhook, but started it in the AM. Next day, towed it to Coeur d'Alene, ID and drove it around visiting, etc. Next day to Bremerton, WA where we drove it around all weekend, then towed it down to Salem, OR on Monday, spent a week there, then drove it back through Southern Idaho, Utah and back to Wyoming. No deep sleep notice (altho getting those has never caused me a starting issue), no "stuck in Neutral Tow, or any problem whatsoever. I'm ready to sell my 2017 C-Max towed now.

I never trust my memory with towing procedures, and always make a card to keep in the Towed. Here is the one I made for the Maverick, following Ford's procedures and my trusty old Brakebuddy. Feel free to PM me if you need anything as you get your Maverick set up!

You can't ask for a better tow than the Maverick unless you're one to go off-roading. I appreciate the offer and the how-to card is a God-send. Thanks very much.

 

[Jayandita]

That came out posted a bit jumbled.

Here's info about what I used. I am a Roadmaster fan, normally, having installed around 8 of their baseplates. But absolutely did not want them this time.

Roadmaster Diodes are way overpriced for this purpose. Try: https://www.ebay.com/itm/385511304724 These are what I used and they were easier to install as they have wires to connect, not terminals to add to your wiring.

Demco is the only baseplate ( 9519360) that does not either destroy your lower active shutter system (Roadmaster does) or make for a difficult fascia cut and, reportedly, possible binding (Blue Ox does). With Demco, you may or may not need to remove 4 replaceable shutter vane segments, but nothing gets destroyed, should you need to restore them. Yes, it is the most expensive option

Roadmaster's RM034 kit will adapt a Falcon 2 Towbar (what I use) to the Demco Baseplate. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAVZQ4

Hopkins battery maintainer is a chargewire with a diode and fuse https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-39332-BrakeBuddy-Vehicle-Maintainer/dp/B004RCXB8A

I appreciate all your documentation. Incredible. Silly question, do you know if Demco has created an install manual that closely mirrors your install?

I ask because I have medical issues that prevent me from lying on my back. I am paying for install, but am not sure the installer will be provided clear and sufficient instructions.

lastly, were you able to leave all the shutters in place? Not sure of the terminology difference of veins and shutters. My apologies if that’s common knowledge.

 

[BradnChristine]

I appreciate all your documentation. Incredible. Silly question, do you know if Demco has created an install manual that closely mirrors your install?

I ask because I have medical issues that prevent me from lying on my back. I am paying for install, but am not sure the installer will be provided clear and sufficient instructions.

lastly, were you able to leave all the shutters in place? Not sure of the terminology difference of veins and shutters. My apologies if that’s common knowledge.

EDIT Afterthought:
Don't turn the truck on without the PAD connected and the front electrical connection intact. If you do, you will get several error codes and a Check engine light.

I'm gonna try to document the entire process in one post, with pictures and 2 linked files.

Not a silly question. Demco's install manual was pretty skimpy. E-Trailer (and others) have good videos as to how to take the fascia off, and the Demco install manual shows it pretty clearly. The manual online is from 6/23 and does not reflect some issues I and another brought to Demco during our installs. Demco does not mention the lower active-shutter vanes at all. I'll talk about them below. The shutter assembly is left intact, as the vanes remove without damage to them or the shutter system.

Demco does not show re-installation of the fascia at all, but there really wasn't anything odd except as noted below.

Here are my observations:

Step 1: Be sure you remove those 2 pushpins as well as the bolts. The fascia will pull past them and when they release with the two tabs (shown in Roadmaster videos), you might be taken off balance (ask me how I know). The fascia is surprisingly light.

Step 2: I do not remember doing this at all.

Step 3: Demco is clear and correct.

Step 4: Besides the 3 bolts and the pin at the outer edge, there is a clip between the 2nd and 3rd bolt that needs to be released with squeezing. See a youtube/etrailer video, it will be helpful.

Step 5a: Take note that the two pieces are keyed together, so when you put the fascia back on later, it needs to be keyed back together before you push the fascia back on and the grill pieces into the headlights, or you might have a struggle.

Step 5B: Demco left out that the grill pieces on the headlights have three plastic connectors holding the grill (part of the fascia) and they must get popped out of the headlights VERY CAREFULLY. The Etrailer video is much better to see this.

Step 6: There is only one electrical connector, on the passenger side, down low.

Step 7: Shows the PAD which needs removal. It also shows a better location to put it back as noted below in step 14. Use the green hole to re-mount it:

Step 8: This shroud is removable to work on. Release the 8 clips that hold it onto the truck. You see the area that needs to be cut out. This item is a plastic oval, with a rubber outer edge. What I did was to cut a slit in the rubber on each side and then cut out the plastic to make room for the baseplate bar. Thus the rubber still seals the airspace as intended. Not a problem to make a cut of both the plastic and the rubber like Demco shows,I just wanted to be a little neater:

WHILE the shroud is off, do step 9 and step 10:

Follow steps 11 and 12.

At this point, testfit the baseplate onto the 4 mounting bolts, tighten them (not torqued and no locktite!).

Now, carefully examine the active shutter vanes. The bottom vane on each side will be intact, the 2nd from the bottom is missing because Ford took it out, the 3rd from the bottom is out of sight behind the baseplate, and the 4th from the bottom will very likely be laying on top of the baseplate. That was my cue that both the 3rd and 4th vanes required removal so that the baseplate would not impede their travel and cause a problem with the entire system. Even using a few washers would not allow it to move properly, so I removed them following Ford's instruction. (File attached). The top vanes (5th from bottom) can stay just fine.

Step 13: It is NOT necessary to drill this 3/8" hole in the PAD. You do not need it.

Step 14: No, No, No. When you try to reinstall the PAD (with the new 3/8" hole), you will realize 2 things. 1. The bolt/nut Demco provides is too short to add the PLASTIC PAD mount, so you would have to go get a longer bolt. 2. Once I did that, I realized that putting that plastic in the bolt-brace-bracket-nut assembly, and then torquing it to 50 ft-lbs, was a recipe for failure. I did not want to torque a plastic sandwich. If you look at step 14 closely, you will see a hole in the upper left of the picture (actually 2 holes). The existing hole in the PAD will allow you to re-mount it right there in that outer hole. I used a small bolt and nyloc nut from my junk drawer to mount it in that hole.

Step 15: Notice that the plastic PAD mount shown in step 14 is not there in Demco's picture!

I removed the baseplate and completed the shroud cutting at this point. You might be able to leave the baseplate in place and twist the shroud into position after cutting. I did not try that, but it might save a little time. Just remember to go back and put locktite on the threads and torque the bolts, once you are happy to leave the baseplate installed.

The upper brace requires 50 ft-lbs of torque, the lower 4 Metric bolts are, according to the Ford Service Manual, to be set at 30 ft-lbs (not shown in Demco's torque table, so I looked it up.

Putting the fascia back on is simple, just make sure the lower pieces are meshed together properly.

The electrical will be a pain to decide where and how to install it. Notice that Demco's final picture has NO Electrical showing at all. They include a way-too big and heavy 6-pin mount. I bought a lighter one. I ran the wires down the driver's side underneath, so they came out in the cutout area of the shroud while I finished up.

The end result:

This post should have all your installer would need to understand. BTW, Demco includes the "required by lawyers" safety cable set, but there is no frame on this unibody and no place to put it.
Enjoy!

 

[Jayandita]

EDIT Afterthought:
Don't turn the truck on without the PAD connected and the front electrical connection intact. If you do, you will get several error codes and a Check engine light.

I'm gonna try to document the entire process in one post, with pictures and 2 linked files.

Not a silly question. Demco's install manual was pretty skimpy. E-Trailer (and others) have good videos as to how to take the fascia off, and the Demco install manual shows it pretty clearly. The manual online is from 6/23 and does not reflect some issues I and another brought to Demco during our installs. Demco does not mention the lower active-shutter vanes at all. I'll talk about them below. The shutter assembly is left intact, as the vanes remove without damage to them or the shutter system.

Demco does not show re-installation of the fascia at all, but there really wasn't anything odd except as noted below.

Here are my observations:

Step 1: Be sure you remove those 2 pushpins as well as the bolts. The fascia will pull past them and when they release with the two tabs (shown in Roadmaster videos), you might be taken off balance (ask me how I know). The fascia is surprisingly light.

Step 2: I do not remember doing this at all.

Step 3: Demco is clear and correct.

Step 4: Besides the 3 bolts and the pin at the outer edge, there is a clip between the 2nd and 3rd bolt that needs to be released with squeezing. See a youtube/etrailer video, it will be helpful.

Step 5a: Take note that the two pieces are keyed together, so when you put the fascia back on later, it needs to be keyed back together before you push the fascia back on and the grill pieces into the headlights, or you might have a struggle.

Step 5B: Demco left out that the grill pieces on the headlights have three plastic connectors holding the grill (part of the fascia) and they must get popped out of the headlights VERY CAREFULLY. The Etrailer video is much better to see this.

Step 6: There is only one electrical connector, on the passenger side, down low.

Step 7: Shows the PAD which needs removal. It also shows a better location to put it back as noted below in step 14. Use the green hole to re-mount it:

Step 8: This shroud is removable to work on. Release the 8 clips that hold it onto the truck. You see the area that needs to be cut out. This item is a plastic oval, with a rubber outer edge. What I did was to cut a slit in the rubber on each side and then cut out the plastic to make room for the baseplate bar. Thus the rubber still seals the airspace as intended. Not a problem to make a cut of both the plastic and the rubber like Demco shows,I just wanted to be a little neater:

WHILE the shroud is off, do step 9 and step 10:

Follow steps 11 and 12.

At this point, testfit the baseplate onto the 4 mounting bolts, tighten them (not torqued and no locktite!).

Now, carefully examine the active shutter vanes. The bottom vane on each side will be intact, the 2nd from the bottom is missing because Ford took it out, the 3rd from the bottom is out of sight behind the baseplate, and the 4th from the bottom will very likely be laying on top of the baseplate. That was my cue that both the 3rd and 4th vanes required removal so that the baseplate would not impede their travel and cause a problem with the entire system. Even using a few washers would not allow it to move properly, so I removed them following Ford's instruction. (File attached). The top vanes (5th from bottom) can stay just fine.

Step 13: It is NOT necessary to drill this 3/8" hole in the PAD. You do not need it.

Step 14: No, No, No. When you try to reinstall the PAD (with the new 3/8" hole), you will realize 2 things. 1. The bolt/nut Demco provides is too short to add the PLASTIC PAD mount, so you would have to go get a longer bolt. 2. Once I did that, I realized that putting that plastic in the bolt-brace-bracket-nut assembly, and then torquing it to 50 ft-lbs, was a recipe for failure. I did not want to torque a plastic sandwich. If you look at step 14 closely, you will see a hole in the upper left of the picture (actually 2 holes). The existing hole in the PAD will allow you to re-mount it right there in that outer hole. I used a small bolt and nyloc nut from my junk drawer to mount it in that hole.

Step 15: Notice that the plastic PAD mount shown in step 14 is not there in Demco's picture!

I removed the baseplate and completed the shroud cutting at this point. You might be able to leave the baseplate in place and twist the shroud into position after cutting. I did not try that, but it might save a little time. Just remember to go back and put locktite on the threads and torque the bolts, once you are happy to leave the baseplate installed.

The upper brace requires 50 ft-lbs of torque, the lower 4 Metric bolts are, according to the Ford Service Manual, to be set at 30 ft-lbs (not shown in Demco's torque table, so I looked it up.

Putting the fascia back on is simple, just make sure the lower pieces are meshed together properly.

The electrical will be a pain to decide where and how to install it. Notice that Demco's final picture has NO Electrical showing at all. They include a way-too big and heavy 6-pin mount. I bought a lighter one. I ran the wires down the driver's side underneath, so they came out in the cutout area of the shroud while I finished up.

The end result:

This post should have all your installer would need to understand. BTW, Demco includes the "required by lawyers" safety cable set, but there is no frame on this unibody and no place to put it.
Enjoy!

incredible. Cannot thank you enough, and Demco really should compensate you. Amazing.

Just FYI. I will be mentioning to Demco that the only reason I am purchasing is based on your install notes.

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