Mine came with spade connectors soldered directly to the line feeding the speakers. There were no connectors to unplug. It could be because my truck was delivered Nov. 10, 2021. I purchased a set of the 72-5602 for the rear but did not use them.
Just the blue wire as this diagram shows.
I gotta agree with you, the difference with just the DSP and infinities is night and day, not sure I would have ordered the sub if I heard it like this first. Seeing as how I have everything already I'll push forward. I'll definitely need to get some help with the equalizer, it's definitely Greek to me, lol.Got out last Saturday afternoon and cleaned the car port and blew some leaves away. The car port looked so nice, neat, & fresh; Plus, my XL was in the driveway so I decided to finish running the power wire from the battery to the Rockville RW68CA Sub and decided to mount in the right side under the back seat, so I lined the bin with sound insulation.
After mounting the fuse for the sub on the battery hold down strap and connecting it to the positive of the battery, I fed the remaining wire up through the rubber membrane in the firewall to the fuse and connected it. I ran the wire under the trim in the footwell, under the left front door sill and mated it up with the sub remote wire, the RCA leads, and continued all to the back under the "B" trim, then under door sill and left side storage bin trim to a point behind the seat, then over to the sub in the right side storage bin under the seat.
I have to admit that removing the trim pieces for access is much easier this time, but I still have a ton of blood bruises ask over my hands and arms. Such is the life of thin skinned guy of 76 years old.
I have been enjoying life with the sub woofer for a few months after installing the Infinity Reference 6-1/2" REF-6532IX on the front and the 4” x 6” REF-6432CFX on the back along with the Puzu PZ-CY 45W RMS DSP Amp. The music was full across all frequencies and the front speakers carried the bass with a frequency response of 53Hz-21kHz. There is a 3db gain on the front speaker tweeters, but since I had decided not to eliminate the dash tweeters, I set the gain to 0.
After getting everything connected and fired up, I set the sub to play frequencies below 100Hz, and left the factory default input gain at about 1/2 way and the bass boost at the factory default 6 db. Although it results in adjusting the sub remote pretty low at about a 1/4 to 1/3 of the volume available. With he DSP Amp, I adjusted all the Ford settings flat in the 3 band equalizer to let the DSP do it's stuff.
I have the remote mounted on the side of the center console near my right leg. It gives me the blue led that tells me the DSP and Sub are powered up and when it's not; and, it gives me easy reach adjustment of the sub.
I could have done without the sub and been fine with in my ignorance; however, after listening to it even at moderate settings, it fills out the lows very nicely. Although it has the capability to hammer and thump far more than I want to listen to. So overall, I now have an audio system that is far more capable of producing nice rich and full sound across the full spectrum of my hearing. The sub gives me the ability to listen to frequencies from 53Hz down to 20Hz as well as fill out the bass and mid bass up to 100Hz.
So, not a bad afternoon with an hour spent running the wires and making all the connections; then spending the next 2-1/2 hours playing with it. I'm sure that I will tune the DSP again...and again...and again.
Another benefit to adding the subwoofer, it gives the rear speakers a more prominent role. The frequency response of the 4" x 6" rear speakers is 75Hz-21kHz and sound great with the addition of the subwoofer to fill in the bass.
So, overall, the system sounds better with the moderate subwoofer adjustments to fill in the bass. It was worth the nominal $115.00 cost (Subwoofer plus wiring kit).
So your response will probably make me cry! Does the Puzu come with a harness that plugs in between the speaker connecter and the stock head unit connector? If this is the case, I am crying. I could not find on the internet a harness so I made my own, running from the speakers, to my amp and back to the stock head unit. Talk about a pain the the you know what! Say it so Joe!Started to upgrade the audio on my '24 XL hybrid today. Trying to keep things cheap and cheerful, I installed the Puzu PZ-C7. Thanks to member uh50 whose posts brought this product to my attention. Installation was simple and would be simple to reverse. I've currently stowed it in the glove box. I haven't been into the software yet but the defaults (whatever they are) don't do anything bad. Hard to say if they improve anything because introducing the Puzu changes the baseline volume substantially - probably doubling it. As a result, using the Puzu's bypass switch to do a simple A/B comparison by ear is not possible.
I know I want to add a sub - preferably powered - as my next step. I'm considering the Alpine PWE-S8 under the driver's side rear seat. Also considering mounting the JBL Fuse on a board behind the back seat and powering the pair with a Dual DA10004D. Anyone care to offer an opinion on the virtues/vices of these alternatives?
Yes it does. They even sell it separate. You can also plug your sub amp or powered sub RCA and REM in to the PUZU unit.
If you do go the JBL Fuse route ... please follow up with your experience.
I wished I had known you were looking ...Puzu deal sounds like a no-brainer, but for you or
