My BOSS wiring kit came in a couple days ago and I finally installed the SSL sub last night, here are my thoughts:I just installed the PUZU PZ-C7 and WOW. I am almost blown away with the improvement you get for such little investment and ease of installation. The improvement in sound quality from the stock speakers alone is excellent. The amp is currently sitting inside my glove box until I get the sub in, but I plan on installing it under the dash. There should be more than enough room behind the glove box on top of the AC components. More pics to come!
Thanks for the great info and pictures! I am looking at doing a similar set up when my mav gets delivered. A few questions.My BOSS wiring kit came in a couple days ago and I finally installed the SSL sub last night, here are my thoughts:
The compact 10" sub is a very welcome improvement to the lower end of the audio. I listen to a lot of EDM and bass-heavy music, but my taste in music is very broad so I played many samples. Vocals and commercials come through very bass heavy, rock, metal, and alt music are pretty balanced, and EDM bass comes through a little lacking. The bass knob is extremely useful in keeping the sound exactly where I want it and I find myself using it much more than I thought I would. Note that I still have a good amount of tuning to do with the PZ-C7 and the sub's built-in amp so the need for the knob will likely decrease after proper tuning.
Overall I am extremely pleased and think the sub is well worth the extra $125.
Now for some notes on installation:
Running all the wires wasn't too terrible. No issues with breaking clips during panel removal, many don't even need to be removed. Plenty of space for the sub in the factory amp location. Pictures of my process below.
1) I used the 10mm terminal mount nut for the positive lead. I was planning on using one of the 1/2" nuts but putting the lead here prevented me from reinstalling the plastic cover.
2) I routed the positive lead along the factory battery cables and secured them with zip ties. I used a couple machine screws to mount my fuse from the bottom of the plastic cover on the driver side strut tower.
3) I used some heat shrink on the screws to make sure the nuts didn't back off. I didn't have any loctite on hand.
4) From the fuse, the positive cable goes down to a grommet in the driver side foot well.
5) Towards the top right of this picture you can see the oval-shaped grommet.
6) The grommet has circles on the back. I used a drill bit of the same size to make a small hole just big enough for the 8ga cable to go through. The seal between the cable and the grommet look to be weather tight.
7) I fed the cable to the left toward the kick panel that holds the hood latch release. FROM HERE ON, THE RCA AND REM CABLES FOR THE SUB FOLLOW THE SAME PATH AND STEPS, BUT ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRUCK.
8) From there, I popped this panel up and fed the cable along the side.
9) Only pop the clips up to this point on the horizontal piece, the ones toward the front of the truck where it goes vertical are a PITA to reinstall.
10) I didn't remove the panel that holds the seat belt in place. There is plenty of room to tuck the cable in. Black cable is for the bass knob, the positive follows in its place.
11) Plenty of room for the positive cable without removing the panel as previously mentioned.
12) I removed the kick panel at the rear driver side door and routed the cables along the side.
13) After removing the panel that covers the side of the under-seat storage, I routed the cables as shown beneath the existing harness using a guide rod.
14) Here's a closeup of how I routed the cables under the existing harness.
15) Since I will also be testing another sub, I temporarily secured the left side to the "butterfly mount" with a zip tie. The sub wil be permanently fixed to a piece of acryllic once I select which one I am going to keep.
16) The right side got zip tied to this mount. Side note, I slipped some cardboard between the back of the cab and the sub to prevent some of the rattling. I suspect this will stop once the sub is permanently mounted.
17) This is where I chose to temporarily mount my bass knob. Hidden but still easily accessible.
I will be sure to update with which sub I end up keeping, as well as how I make the mounting plate and some suggestions for cable management once the install is completed!
Let me know if you have any questions!
Ohhh I was thinking of putting the sub in the under seat cubby but if it fits behind thats so much better! Thanks for the install how to!My BOSS wiring kit came in a couple days ago and I finally installed the SSL sub last night, here are my thoughts:
The compact 10" sub is a very welcome improvement to the lower end of the audio. I listen to a lot of EDM and bass-heavy music, but my taste in music is very broad so I played many samples. Vocals and commercials come through very bass heavy, rock, metal, and alt music are pretty balanced, and EDM bass comes through a little lacking. The bass knob is extremely useful in keeping the sound exactly where I want it and I find myself using it much more than I thought I would. Note that I still have a good amount of tuning to do with the PZ-C7 and the sub's built-in amp so the need for the knob will likely decrease after proper tuning.
Overall I am extremely pleased and think the sub is well worth the extra $125.
Now for some notes on installation:
Running all the wires wasn't too terrible. No issues with breaking clips during panel removal, many don't even need to be removed. Plenty of space for the sub in the factory amp location. Pictures of my process below.
1) I used the 10mm terminal mount nut for the positive lead. I was planning on using one of the 1/2" nuts but putting the lead here prevented me from reinstalling the plastic cover.
2) I routed the positive lead along the factory battery cables and secured them with zip ties. I used a couple machine screws to mount my fuse from the bottom of the plastic cover on the driver side strut tower.
3) I used some heat shrink on the screws to make sure the nuts didn't back off. I didn't have any loctite on hand.
4) From the fuse, the positive cable goes down to a grommet in the driver side foot well.
5) Towards the top right of this picture you can see the oval-shaped grommet.
6) The grommet has circles on the back. I used a drill bit of the same size to make a small hole just big enough for the 8ga cable to go through. The seal between the cable and the grommet look to be weather tight.
7) I fed the cable to the left toward the kick panel that holds the hood latch release. FROM HERE ON, THE RCA AND REM CABLES FOR THE SUB FOLLOW THE SAME PATH AND STEPS, BUT ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRUCK.
8) From there, I popped this panel up and fed the cable along the side.
9) Only pop the clips up to this point on the horizontal piece, the ones toward the front of the truck where it goes vertical are a PITA to reinstall.
10) I didn't remove the panel that holds the seat belt in place. There is plenty of room to tuck the cable in. Black cable is for the bass knob, the positive follows in its place.
11) Plenty of room for the positive cable without removing the panel as previously mentioned.
12) I removed the kick panel at the rear driver side door and routed the cables along the side.
13) After removing the panel that covers the side of the under-seat storage, I routed the cables as shown beneath the existing harness using a guide rod.
14) Here's a closeup of how I routed the cables under the existing harness.
15) Since I will also be testing another sub, I temporarily secured the left side to the "butterfly mount" with a zip tie. The sub wil be permanently fixed to a piece of acryllic once I select which one I am going to keep.
16) The right side got zip tied to this mount. Side note, I slipped some cardboard between the back of the cab and the sub to prevent some of the rattling. I suspect this will stop once the sub is permanently mounted.
17) This is where I chose to temporarily mount my bass knob. Hidden but still easily accessible.
I will be sure to update with which sub I end up keeping, as well as how I make the mounting plate and some suggestions for cable management once the install is completed!
Let me know if you have any questions!
DSP is currently living in my glove box but I plan on mounting it on top of the A/C components behind the glove box with some removable double sided tape.
Sorry to revive the an old thread. I've recently read pretty much the whole thing, great info. I ordered the infinity front speakers. If I'm just installing those do I need anything else? You typed about a harness, is that only if I'm doing all 4 speakers? Thanks Uh50 for all your info!
Great job and thanks for all the pics.My BOSS wiring kit came in a couple days ago and I finally installed the SSL sub last night, here are my thoughts:
The compact 10" sub is a very welcome improvement to the lower end of the audio. I listen to a lot of EDM and bass-heavy music, but my taste in music is very broad so I played many samples. Vocals and commercials come through very bass heavy, rock, metal, and alt music are pretty balanced, and EDM bass comes through a little lacking. The bass knob is extremely useful in keeping the sound exactly where I want it and I find myself using it much more than I thought I would. Note that I still have a good amount of tuning to do with the PZ-C7 and the sub's built-in amp so the need for the knob will likely decrease after proper tuning.
Overall I am extremely pleased and think the sub is well worth the extra $125.
Now for some notes on installation:
Running all the wires wasn't too terrible. No issues with breaking clips during panel removal, many don't even need to be removed. Plenty of space for the sub in the factory amp location. Pictures of my process below.
1) I used the 10mm terminal mount nut for the positive lead. I was planning on using one of the 1/2" nuts but putting the lead here prevented me from reinstalling the plastic cover.
2) I routed the positive lead along the factory battery cables and secured them with zip ties. I used a couple machine screws to mount my fuse from the bottom of the plastic cover on the driver side strut tower.
3) I used some heat shrink on the screws to make sure the nuts didn't back off. I didn't have any loctite on hand.
4) From the fuse, the positive cable goes down to a grommet in the driver side foot well.
5) Towards the top right of this picture you can see the oval-shaped grommet.
6) The grommet has circles on the back. I used a drill bit of the same size to make a small hole just big enough for the 8ga cable to go through. The seal between the cable and the grommet look to be weather tight.
7) I fed the cable to the left toward the kick panel that holds the hood latch release. FROM HERE ON, THE RCA AND REM CABLES FOR THE SUB FOLLOW THE SAME PATH AND STEPS, BUT ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRUCK.
8) From there, I popped this panel up and fed the cable along the side.
9) Only pop the clips up to this point on the horizontal piece, the ones toward the front of the truck where it goes vertical are a PITA to reinstall.
10) I didn't remove the panel that holds the seat belt in place. There is plenty of room to tuck the cable in. Black cable is for the bass knob, the positive follows in its place.
11) Plenty of room for the positive cable without removing the panel as previously mentioned.
12) I removed the kick panel at the rear driver side door and routed the cables along the side.
13) After removing the panel that covers the side of the under-seat storage, I routed the cables as shown beneath the existing harness using a guide rod.
14) Here's a closeup of how I routed the cables under the existing harness.
15) Since I will also be testing another sub, I temporarily secured the left side to the "butterfly mount" with a zip tie. The sub wil be permanently fixed to a piece of acryllic once I select which one I am going to keep.
16) The right side got zip tied to this mount. Side note, I slipped some cardboard between the back of the cab and the sub to prevent some of the rattling. I suspect this will stop once the sub is permanently mounted.
17) This is where I chose to temporarily mount my bass knob. Hidden but still easily accessible.
I will be sure to update with which sub I end up keeping, as well as how I make the mounting plate and some suggestions for cable management once the install is completed!
Let me know if you have any questions!
Great questions. If you are only replacing the front speakers and not installing the DSP Amp, then a harness is not required. The harness just provides a loop through the DSP Amp to amplify the speaker circuits, as well as providing power.
Just installed mine and absolutely love it. Have you connected to it and changed any settings or just leave it as stock? Gonna order a powered sub today and hopefully by the weekend have a sick sound systemI just installed the PUZU PZ-C7 and WOW. I am almost blown away with the improvement you get for such little investment and ease of installation. The improvement in sound quality from the stock speakers alone is excellent. The amp is currently sitting inside my glove box until I get the sub in, but I plan on installing it under the dash. There should be more than enough room behind the glove box on top of the AC components. More pics to come!
I linked channels 5/6 together and changed the frequency curve to give it more low bass. These are the L and R RCA channels for the sub output. It made a pretty big difference!
I installed the BOSS sub yesterday. The sub still needs some breaking in but I can tell it already has better low end response and is less punchy than the SSL sub. A little odd considering they are both 10" subs with "1200W" amps. If nothing major happens I will be keeping this one installed.My BOSS wiring kit came in a couple days ago and I finally installed the SSL sub last night, here are my thoughts:
The compact 10" sub is a very welcome improvement to the lower end of the audio. I listen to a lot of EDM and bass-heavy music, but my taste in music is very broad so I played many samples. Vocals and commercials come through very bass heavy, rock, metal, and alt music are pretty balanced, and EDM bass comes through a little lacking. The bass knob is extremely useful in keeping the sound exactly where I want it and I find myself using it much more than I thought I would. Note that I still have a good amount of tuning to do with the PZ-C7 and the sub's built-in amp so the need for the knob will likely decrease after proper tuning.
Overall I am extremely pleased and think the sub is well worth the extra $125.
Now for some notes on installation:
Running all the wires wasn't too terrible. No issues with breaking clips during panel removal, many don't even need to be removed. Plenty of space for the sub in the factory amp location. Pictures of my process below.
1) I used the 10mm terminal mount nut for the positive lead. I was planning on using one of the 1/2" nuts but putting the lead here prevented me from reinstalling the plastic cover.
2) I routed the positive lead along the factory battery cables and secured them with zip ties. I used a couple machine screws to mount my fuse from the bottom of the plastic cover on the driver side strut tower.
3) I used some heat shrink on the screws to make sure the nuts didn't back off. I didn't have any loctite on hand.
4) From the fuse, the positive cable goes down to a grommet in the driver side foot well.
5) Towards the top right of this picture you can see the oval-shaped grommet.
6) The grommet has circles on the back. I used a drill bit of the same size to make a small hole just big enough for the 8ga cable to go through. The seal between the cable and the grommet look to be weather tight.
7) I fed the cable to the left toward the kick panel that holds the hood latch release. FROM HERE ON, THE RCA AND REM CABLES FOR THE SUB FOLLOW THE SAME PATH AND STEPS, BUT ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE TRUCK.
8) From there, I popped this panel up and fed the cable along the side.
9) Only pop the clips up to this point on the horizontal piece, the ones toward the front of the truck where it goes vertical are a PITA to reinstall.
10) I didn't remove the panel that holds the seat belt in place. There is plenty of room to tuck the cable in. Black cable is for the bass knob, the positive follows in its place.
11) Plenty of room for the positive cable without removing the panel as previously mentioned.
12) I removed the kick panel at the rear driver side door and routed the cables along the side.
13) After removing the panel that covers the side of the under-seat storage, I routed the cables as shown beneath the existing harness using a guide rod.
14) Here's a closeup of how I routed the cables under the existing harness.
15) Since I will also be testing another sub, I temporarily secured the left side to the "butterfly mount" with a zip tie. The sub wil be permanently fixed to a piece of acryllic once I select which one I am going to keep.
16) The right side got zip tied to this mount. Side note, I slipped some cardboard between the back of the cab and the sub to prevent some of the rattling. I suspect this will stop once the sub is permanently mounted.
17) This is where I chose to temporarily mount my bass knob. Hidden but still easily accessible.
I will be sure to update with which sub I end up keeping, as well as how I make the mounting plate and some suggestions for cable management once the install is completed!
Let me know if you have any questions!
Nice, I was going to ask for an update. After installing the Infinities, I definitely need more low end. Thinking of going with the Rockville powered 10". I was just curious is there a reason why I don't see a lot if people putting these subs under the seat(s)?I'm still lovin' my Puzu PZ-C7 DSP Amp. I know harnesses are something that are expensive for many name brand DSP & straight amps. I had a thought. Here is a link to the Puzu harness for the Ford Maverick.
Great option for an almost plug and play harness using the Puzu DSP Ford Maverick harness by just replacing the DSP connector with your own amp's connector. It is cheap at $25.99 direct from the Puzu website. If you buy an amp of any kind and it comes with it's own connector, a lot of people don't want to cut factory wiring, this is the option:
Purchase the Puzu DSP harness for Ford, cut the DSP Amp connector off and wire up your amp harness. This will give your amp a speaker feed and then the amp output goes to the factory speaker wiring. My Puzu harness was truly plug and play with a Puzu DSP Amp. Easy Peezy.
The link for the harness is here.
Puzu DSP Amp harness male connector. Plugs into the Ford ACM.
Puzu DSP Amp harness female connector. Unplug the cables & connector for the speakers from the ACM and plug it into this female connector.
Ford's pinout guide for the Maverick and others is shown below.
This is how my system is connected using the Puzu harness feeding the DSP Amp.
This is Puzu's DSP connector pinout guide. After cutting off the DSP connector, you can use It to identify the wiring structure for attaching your own amp's connector to the Puzu harness. The power (BATT) and ground (GND) do not have to be used and should not be used with most amps, or DSPs. Note it has a Remote in (REMIN) and Remote out (REMOUT).
This harness was included with the Puzu PZ-C7 DSP Amp I purchased on eBay and I believe the vendor sells them for $20, but I'm not sure.
I don't work for Puzu and don't make any money off of them. I had to buy all my own equipment. This is just a good harness option for those that want something reasonably priced and easy to accomplish.
I hope this information helps someone. Let me know the results if any of you decide to go this route.
This is Ford's pinout guide.
there's no need to do it because there is a lot more room behind the rear bench. The angle of the backrest creates a fairly deep space at the bottom and a Kicker HS10 fits.
