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Mobile 1 synthetic engine oil for 2.0 EcoBoost?

tamamade

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Hi all,
For 2.0 ecoboost engine, the recommended oil from FORD is Motorcraft® SAE 5W-30 Premium Synthetic Blend. Wondering if Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30 will also work? I prefer full synthetic. Just don't know if FORD is OK with mobil 1.
Thanks.
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tamamade

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Ford is okay with any oil brand that is of the correct viscosity and meets current API Service Classification for Passenger Cars
Isn't viscosity that "30" in 5w-30? What's API service classification? Does Mobil 1 meet it?
 

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Yes, you're fine with Mobil 1. I run Kirkland Signature synthetic.

You'd have to go out of your way to find oil that doesn't work.

Edit: but make sure it's GF-6A compliant like other folks mentioned, just to be sure.
 

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Ford is okay with any oil brand that is of the correct viscosity and meets current API Service Classification for Passenger Cars
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The actual spec is WSS-M2C961-A1. If the oil manufacturer states that it meets that spec, it's ok. That said, any oil that meets the ILSAC GF-6A specification should work just fine.

the manual says:

We recommend Motorcraft® motor oil for
your vehicle. If Motorcraft® oil is not
available, use motor oils of the
recommended viscosity grade that display
the API Certification Mark for gasoline
engines.

Then again, if your motor fails due to an oil related issue and the oil you were using didn't meet the ILSAC spec you could potentially give them a reason not to honor the warranty.

How they could prove that is another story.
 

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Isn't viscosity that "30" in 5w-30? What's API service classification? Does Mobil 1 meet it?
5w 30 actually means 5 winter/ 30. The oil has multi-viscosities. In frigid conditions, the oil has the properties of a very light oil (5 weight), so it flows more easily. It also has the properties 30 weight, so in hot conditions, it doesn't flow too easily like the lighter 5 weight oil would.
Mobile 1 certainly meets and likely exceeds all of Ford's and all makes of vehicle requirements. API service is complicated. It involves industry standards which are developed with engine manufacturers in order to perform at a high level. As engine designs advance, so do the requirements of oils in protecting the engine from many potential issues. So it changes every few years.
 

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The actual spec is WSS-M2C961-A1. If the oil manufacturer states that it meets that spec, it's ok. That said, any oil that meets the ILSAC GF-6A specification should work just fine.

the manual says:




Then again, if your motor fails due to an oil related issue and the oil you were using didn't meet the ILSAC spec you could potentially give them a reason not to honor the warranty.

How they could prove that is another story.
I'm just guessing that if the company were able to recover the improper oil which was used, they could potentially do testing on it to determine that it was the cause of the failure.
When I was in the lubricant business, that's what they did when they encountered a loss claim against them. They rarely had to make compensation, because it was always due to the claimant using an inappropriate viscosity.
 

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I'm just guessing that if the company were able to recover the improper oil which was used, they could potentially do testing on it to determine that it was the cause of the failure.
When I was in the lubricant business, that's what they did when they encountered a loss claim against them. They rarely had to make compensation, because it was always due to the claimant using an inappropriate viscosity.
The game we are all playing, like it or not, it a contest to see whether a claim sticks or not. Loser pays. This is why I am going to the dealer for oil changes at the recommended intervals - to document proper maintenance.

That said, even the walmart brand full synthetic oil they sell is worlds better than the best oils we had back in the 70s and 80s and light years better than the cheap crap available back then.

The base oil is better, the additive packages are better, everything about them is better.

But getting back to your anecdote, how hard is it, really, to select the proper viscosity? It's printed on the frigging oil fill cap FFS.
 

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The game we are all playing, like it or not, it a contest to see whether a claim sticks or not. Loser pays. This is why I am going to the dealer for oil changes at the recommended intervals - to document proper maintenance.

That said, even the walmart brand full synthetic oil they sell is worlds better than the best oils we had back in the 70s and 80s and light years better than the cheap crap available back then.

The base oil is better, the additive packages are better, everything about them is better.

But getting back to your anecdote, how hard is it, really, to select the proper viscosity? It's printed on the frigging oil fill cap FFS.
I agree with all of that. There are people who insist on using heavier oil than what's printed on the cap. I tried to convince my neighbor not to put 10w 30 in his van that required 5w 20. Or others who will even go to 15w 40 when their vehicle gets old and starts to use oil. 'FFS' is the correct expletive in this instance.
 
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But I thought all the backyard mechanics knew better than the engine and oil engineers. That sure changes my view of the world.
 

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I agree with all of that. There are people who insist on using heavier oil than what's printed on the cap. I tried to convince my neighbor not to put 10w 30 in his van that required 5w 20. Or others who will even go to 15w 40 when their vehicle gets old and starts to use oil. 'FFS' is the correct expletive in this instance.
But that's what their grandpappy always did with their DeSoto!
 

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This is why I am going to the dealer for oil changes at the recommended intervals - to document proper maintenance.
I learned at the first oil change that my dealer only use synthetic oil; albeit I didn't ask for the brand,did not matter to me...
 
 







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