B&O Wiring and Remote

[pharaoh319]

Anyone tap into this guy? I've seen the diagram shared in another thread but the colors are off. I've started to tap into it based on the pin numbers and not colors. Hopefully im getting into the front speaker wires.
Gonna fuse tap the wireless charger fuse up front but there has to be a shorter run "remote" wire out back.
Longest 7 wire install ever. lol. Should have taken an hour lol

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[pharaoh319]

this guy

 

[Darnon]

PAC makes a wiring harness APH-FD02 that looks like it should work comparing the pins to the wire diagram in that other thread. While you're at it maybe you can confirm if the front dash tweeters are run off the B&O amp like the diagram indicates?

 

[pharaoh319]

PAC makes a wiring harness APH-FD02 that looks like it should work comparing the pins to the wire diagram in that other thread. While you're at it maybe you can confirm if the front dash tweeters are run off the B&O amp like the diagram indicates?

Yeah thats the drawing im going by. Tapping into 17/7 and 16/6.

I have confirmed for you, NONE of the speakers work when you pull either plug.

 

[Darnon]

That may just be the audio system shutting off entirely if it detects the amp is unplugged. I suppose will have to check with a continuity test or tone generator.

 

[pharaoh319]

That may just be the audio system shutting off entirely if it detects the amp is unplugged. I suppose will have to check with a continuity test or tone generator.

Possibly. I noticed I could not select the audio option on the touch screen while the amp was unplugged either.

 

[pharaoh319]

So 17/7 & 16/6 worked for the sub. Power and ground are easy as the battery in the hybrid is under the rear bench. Remote?! That was fun to find.
Rung out the two connectors on the amp hoping to find one. Im no electrician but I know how to use a meter and there is no 12v remote at the amp i could find.

To the fuse box we go. Ive read/seen others tap into 23 or 24. Manual say this is Audio unit and Not used. Pulled out the meter and found they were both a constant 12v even when the vehicle is off. Doesnt make sense to use them as a remote source so I kept stabbing away. Found fuse 6 does exactly what I needed it to do. 12v on/off with the engine start/stop button.

Perfect remote tap. Ran some blue speaker wire from there to the rear storage and all is functioning as it should. Ordered a MICRO 2 Fuse tap from Amazon. Will be here tomorrow.

Now just final splices and clean up. All that work just to find out I'm STILL not happy with the B&O setup. Sub helps but I think this will be going into the shop for a full speaker upgrade. Oh well. Hopefully this info helps some of you.

 

[Ken Maverick]

So 17/7 & 16/6 worked for the sub. Power and ground are easy as the battery in the hybrid is under the rear bench. Remote?! That was fun to find.
Rung out the two connectors on the amp hoping to find one. Im no electrician but I know how to use a meter and there is no 12v remote at the amp i could find.

To the fuse box we go. Ive read/seen others tap into 23 or 24. Manual say this is Audio unit and Not used. Pulled out the meter and found they were both a constant 12v even when the vehicle is off. Doesnt make sense to use them as a remote source so I kept stabbing away. Found fuse 6 does exactly what I needed it to do. 12v on/off with the engine start/stop button.

Perfect remote tap. Ran some blue speaker wire from there to the rear storage and all is functioning as it should. Ordered a MICRO 2 Fuse tap from Amazon. Will be here tomorrow.

Now just final splices and clean up. All that work just to find out I'm STILL not happy with the B&O setup. Sub helps but I think this will be going into the shop for a full speaker upgrade. Oh well. Hopefully this info helps some of you.

I used #6 for my sub amp turn on and works great.

 

[Darnon]

Now that I finally got my Maverick I was able to do a little bit of testing on the audio wiring today. The diagram is correct with the dash speakers run off of what's normally the rear channels of a B&O amp. With the PAC wiring harness this makes hooking up a Kicker Key in bi-amp super easy on the Lariat Lux, especially a hybrid. The only trick is getting the center channel to shut up for auto-tune. It was getting late-ish so I didn't feel like digging into the dash to unplug it and just covered it up sufficient to make the Key happy.

The center channel does in fact get used in Stereo mode, it's just louder in Surround mode. I find the center channel's level too loud compared to the doors for my taste no matter where I place the fader. Depending on the outcome once I actually dig into swapping the door speakers I may just end up disconnecting it or muffling it a little.

 

[uh50]

Now that I finally got my Maverick I was able to do a little bit of testing on the audio wiring today. The diagram is correct with the dash speakers run off of what's normally the rear channels of a B&O amp. With the PAC wiring harness this makes hooking up a Kicker Key in bi-amp super easy on the Lariat Lux, especially a hybrid. The only trick is getting the center channel to shut up for auto-tune. It was getting late-ish so I didn't feel like digging into the dash to unplug it and just covered it up sufficient to make the Key happy.

The center channel does in fact get used in Stereo mode, it's just louder in Surround mode. I find the center channel's level too loud compared to the doors for my taste no matter where I place the fader. Depending on the outcome once I actually dig into swapping the door speakers I may just end up disconnecting it or muffling it a little.

Thanks for the info. What size speaker is the dash center channel? TIA!

 

[Darnon]

Thanks for the info. What size speaker is the dash center channel? TIA!

Looks like approx 3 1/2". Two hole mounting on 4 1/8".

Got the JBL GTO906c door speakers in quick during lunch break but didn't test them much. The stock units with B&O sound have a bit more substantial magnet (2 3/8" dia) than the tiny puck of the regular sound system at least.

 

[Darnon]

Ended up taking the center channel out for now. Going to see if replacing it sounds any better. No matter the adjustments it was too bright for my taste and really narrowed the front stage to that point in the dash. Stock is 12.5W @ 8 ohm according to the label on it, for what it's worth.

Rear speakers are also on the agenda. I noticed running pink noise through the system for the Key tuning they distort something fierce even at fairly mild levels.

 

[Darnon]

Happened to have a 10W, 10-ohm ceramic resistor and for funsies I soldered it in series with the center channel. That toned it down more acceptably for now.

 

[colinl]

Ended up taking the center channel out for now. Going to see if replacing it sounds any better. No matter the adjustments it was too bright for my taste and really narrowed the front stage to that point in the dash. Stock is 12.5W @ 8 ohm according to the label on it, for what it's worth.

Rear speakers are also on the agenda. I noticed running pink noise through the system for the Key tuning they distort something fierce even at fairly mild levels.

I know this post is now months old, but I saw in another thread you used a MB Quart 3.5" in the center dash. Those are sold in pairs, I believe. What did you do with the 2nd one?

 

[Darnon]

I know this post is now months old, but I saw in another thread you used a MB Quart 3.5" in the center dash. Those are sold in pairs, I believe. What did you do with the 2nd one?

I still have both since I upgraded to an Infinity Reference. I may use them for some other project. If you're angling to buy they're only like $22 so not really worth it to ship (too heavy for cheap First Class).

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