Oh man the digital cluster was my next project after the sync 3 upgrade. That looks soo good.Hopefully going to have an update this week for that. Just swapped to an escape digital cluster with the manual mode, ordering the shifter itself from the escape now that I know the cluster works.
I'm running an explorer wheel, it uses a different airbag, that I have yet to purchase
So you are saying get an airbag and I could use it?
I finally got both switches and I'm 90% confident I can do this. That being said, I still am unclear on the clockspring. You say put a piece of tape on it to keep it from rotating out of position, but I have no idea what a clockspring is or even looks like. Could you please give a more detailed description and location of it? It would be greatly appreciated.My mega writeup ...
Edit: a few details have been added, I would be glad to add more pertinant details or links as suggested, especially pertaining to the use of Forscan for this purpose.
First, I must thank @Tyvemattis for his ground-breaking work. All I am doing here is documenting the process that worked for me.
This took me about four hours, I am sure I could do it in less than two now.
My vehicle is an XL hybrid, with CP-360.
The main points:
The long version:
- Switches SW-8579 and SW-8576 (OR optionally a correct steering wheel with the switches installed)
- Forscan 2.3.45 (must be a licensed copy to write to modules, even the 2 month free license will work)
- Edit: For hybrids, use https://forscan.org/download/FORScanSetup2.3.46.test20220126.exe
- OBDLinkEX, other adapters are not recommended
- Programming
- SCCM - 724-02-01 1258 6820 3050
- BCM - 726-04-05 CB28 8140 8872
- IPC - no changes
- ABS - 760-03-02 0200 0000 0573
Tools needed - 15/16 socket, 10mm socket, small flat screwdriver, T8 torx screwdriver, and perhaps a few hand tools
Recommended - Loctite, torque wrench, 7mm socket (if removing clamshells)
Steps -
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal (under the rear seat for the hybrid, under the hood for the EB). Use a 10mm socket.
- Adjust the steering wheel position to full extension, to gain space between it and the dash.
- (Note: see posts following about not needing to remove the clamshells. This would save a few steps, but I will leave my method here for reference. Steps in italics assume that you do dissassemble the clamshells.)
- Gently pry apart the steering column upper clamshell from the lower.
- Remove the lower clamshell for the steering column. You need a 7mm socket for this, remove the two bolts and pull it aft and down.
- Turn the steering wheel 90° left or right. (It will be hard turning without power assist.)
- Look underneath, and on the forward side of the wheel you will see a slot. Insert the screwdriver in that slot, and pry "up" on the release, to release that side of the airbag.
- Turn the wheel 90° the other way and do it again. The airbag should come off.
- Remove the wires from the airbag. For the yellow and orange connectors, gently lift the orange section with a pick or tiny screwdriver to release, and after it is lifted, the connector can be removed. Set the airbag aside.
- Disconnect the black clockspring connector exiting the wheel through the top opening by inserting a small screwdriver into the top side and releasing.
- Remove the 15/16 inch bolt holding the wheel on. It is not as tight as I thought it would be.
- Remove the steering wheel, mine came off easily.
- Put a piece of tape across the clockspring to keep it from rotating out of position while you are doing other stuff. (Make sure you remove this later!)
- For removing and installing the switches, see the thread that @Tyvemattis wrote. https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...her-switches-such-as-cruise-control-diy.7358/ It is pretty straightforward. You will need a flat screwdriver and the T8 torx screwdriver to do this.
- Make sure that the wires are carefully tucked into place in the wheel, there are retainers for them.
Reassembly is basically the opposite of disassembly. I recommend you put loctite on the 15/16 bolt thread, it had it from the factory. @kingranchero recommends 35 lb-ft of torque, I just torqued it tight.
If you removed the clamshells, when putting them back together, be sure to get all the various "tabs" engaged. Install the lower first, starting with the forward end, getting the tabs on the rail, then hinge the upper into place. Pay close attention to the areas circled below.
After it is all put together, reconnect the battery, and program.
I am not going to get into the details of using Forscan, there are tutorials available. See the top of this post for parameters needed/suggested.
I tried to enter the IPC codes suggested by @Tyvemattis at the top of this thread
(https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...an-and-escape-steering-wheel.7287/post-151787), but they would not write. It works fine anyway. (My first one as-built was a match for his recommended already.)
The system will set a few DTCs (primarily when the vehicle wakes up with different parts installed), make sure you clear them after all is finished. (Don't sweat this, it wasn't a big deal, you would never know if Forscan didn't tell you.)
That is all I can think of right now, I hope this helps!
Oh, and if this works for you, please consider buying a paid license for Forscan, they deserve it.
Greg
Just be careful when pulling the steering wheel off, it doesn't move or fly off like the old days. You will be fine. Just make sure the 2 posts are lined up with the steering wheel when replacing it
The Explorer airbag is different than the others
Here is a photo, and you can see my (clear) tape on the bottom side, under the alignment pin that looks like a tire valve cap.
^^ Yes, this. ^^ The posts he is referring to I call alignment pins, and they look like valve caps. In the photo, the one on the right is easy to see, the left one is mostly hidden behind the cable by my finger.
With now having seen the dash, and the cruise… I’m curious.. where do you people get a spare escape from?I have finally got Cruise working on my XL. I'm not positive that you absolutely have to have both of the IPC inputs, however, I have working cruise, so I haven't dug into it too far. If anyone wants to challenge it, feel free to post the results!
2020 Ford Escape steering wheel
SCCM
724-02-01 1258 6820 3050 clock spring
IPC Instrument panel control module
720-01-02 0227 4093
720-02-01 09E4 2D34 1E96
BCM
726-04-05 CB28 8140 8872
Can't give away all my secrets. But my mom's gonna be pissed when she gets home from vacation....
Figured it was a wife’s car, so I wasn’t too far off.
I've had vws my whole life, that's why I'm tearing apart my new truck. It's 2nd nature to me.
haha! All makes sense now! Been there and still living that rodeo on a 2.0 torquemaster wagon with dsg
oh boy ...
Adaptive may be tough, I believe that models with adaptive cruise have a special electronic brake booster in order to provide smooth braking during slow downs and stop and gos.
