Getting annoyed by the recurring issues.

[Maguffin]

I ordered my ‘23 Hybrid in fall of ‘22 from dealer and was a smooth experience. A year later I took delivery and was the versatile vehicle I expected. Then the recurring dead 12V battery and “deep sleep” warnings. Numerous batteries and software updates it’s back again Ffs.
Had a constant clunk from RF that dealer was able to solve as an internally blown strut. Now I have developed a wicked shimmy/shudder on acceleration which is supposedly is shitty drive shafts.
I still enjoy this as a great daily use vehicle but damn these piss poor quality issues. I am not going to dump it out of frustration but way too many issues for a vehicle with only 40,000km.

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[Scott Asheville]

There's no easy consolation when somebody just gets "that truck", or possibly "that dealership". I swore off Toyota for life after multiple bad sales and service experiences. It really seems to be like drawing straws sometimes.

 

[El Kabong]

The axles are a known issue with pre-refresh vehicles, the blown strut was bad luck in the new parts lottery, and the 12v battery issue is all on Ford.

Replace the battery with an AGM and make sure you have all updates done. Hopefully this will be the end of that issue for you (hopefully!).

 

[Maguffin]

The axles are a known issue with pre-refresh vehicles, the blown strut was bad luck in the new parts lottery, and the 12v battery issue is all on Ford.

Replace the battery with an AGM and make sure you have all updates done. Hopefully this will be the end of that issue for you (hopefully!).

The last attempt they did put in an AGM, flat after 6 months.

 

[El Kabong]

The last attempt they did put in an AGM, flat after 6 months.

Using the lessons learned in the HYBRID 12V Battery Mystery SOLVED - if you have access to a charger that works with AGM batteries - fully charge your AGM (if you get a new one, also make sure it's fully charged!) then do the BMS reset.

YOU MUST ONLY DO THIS AFTER YOU ARE CERTAIN THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED! It sets the BMS into a state that thinks the battery is fully charged, if your battery is at 50% then this process will make it think that the 50% state is the fully charged state and bad things will happen.

Maverick BMS manual reset:

1. Put the vehicle in ACC mode (push the START button without pressing the brake or put the key to ACC position) - do not start the engine.

2. Flash the high beams five times, then -

3. Press the brake pedal three times.

After a few seconds, the battery light on the dashboard should flash, indicating a successful reset.

But yeah, clearly the battery charging logic is not up to snuff, and at least one of the service bulletin/recalls addresses some parasitic drain somewhere if I recall correctly.

 

[HeyBales]

The last attempt they did put in an AGM, flat after 6 months.

That sounds more like a parasitic drain. Infrequently enough to cause problems.

On likely an AGM that wasn't fully charged anyway due to charging strategy that didn't help the situation. Different issue.

But there are 3 known potential drains now - with software updates.
They should have applied 1 or 2 of them when you got the AGM - as they did exist. Well, at least 1 did for sure.

But I'm sure they tagged it as a bad battery back then and did no further investigation.
Which by that point, ya was bad battery.
If your work order says no SSM was followed - call them up.

 

[Maguffin]

Using the lessons learned in the HYBRID 12V Battery Mystery SOLVED - if you have access to a charger that works with AGM batteries - fully charge your AGM (if you get a new one, also make sure it's fully charged!) then do the BMS reset.

YOU MUST ONLY DO THIS AFTER YOU ARE CERTAIN THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED! It sets the BMS into a state that thinks the battery is fully charged, if your battery is at 50% then this process will make it think that the 50% state is the fully charged state and bad things will happen.

Maverick BMS manual reset:

1. Put the vehicle in ACC mode (push the START button without pressing the brake or put the key to ACC position) - do not start the engine.

2. Flash the high beams five times, then -

3. Press the brake pedal three times.

After a few seconds, the battery light on the dashboard should flash, indicating a successful reset.

But yeah, clearly the battery charging logic is not up to snuff, and at least one of the service bulletin/recalls addresses some parasitic drain somewhere if I recall correctly.

dealer did all that. I checked when I got home and battery was fully charged, I did the bms reset just in case

 

[Bob zimmerman]

You know they will replace your bad axles for free even if out of warranty, right?
Bob

 

[Maguffin]

You know they will replace your bad axles for free even if out of warranty, right?
Bob

I’m still under the 5/100km power train so yes I’m aware it’s free. My understanding is only the ‘22 models have warranty extension

 

[Luthinator]

I ordered my ‘23 Hybrid in fall of ‘22 from dealer and was a smooth experience. A year later I took delivery and was the versatile vehicle I expected. Then the recurring dead 12V battery and “deep sleep” warnings. Numerous batteries and software updates it’s back again Ffs.
Had a constant clunk from RF that dealer was able to solve as an internally blown strut. Now I have developed a wicked shimmy/shudder on acceleration which is supposedly is shitty drive shafts.
I still enjoy this as a great daily use vehicle but damn these piss poor quality issues. I am not going to dump it out of frustration but way too many issues for a vehicle with only 40,000km.

I have been having the same thing with my 24' Hybrid Lariat. I just hit 50K miles. I had it in the dealer for over 2 months in total, for several issues. 2 of which were created after they returned the "fixed truck" to me. I love what this truck is. I love the 48 - 52 MPG I get daily. I do not like the qaulity or the feling of terrible longevity. I am not sure I am going to stick with Ford.
They replaced the strut FR, both axles (what I took it in for), front brakes, Brake master cylinder and something else... all for free or under warranty. I still have a knock in the front right every time I hit a bump over 40. When the truck moves in Electric starting of stopping it has a loud click. and the engine has that loud revving sound that is only really noticed inside the truck. Very annoying and embarrassing. The dealer says they have exhausted everything and cannot figure out what the Gremlins are.

 

[El Kabong]

You still under warranty? Call Ford and ask them to help you find another dealer service to try. Your selling dealer may just be waiting for your warranty to end before they magically "find the actual problems".

 

[Waterick]

Using the lessons learned in the HYBRID 12V Battery Mystery SOLVED - if you have access to a charger that works with AGM batteries - fully charge your AGM (if you get a new one, also make sure it's fully charged!) then do the BMS reset.

YOU MUST ONLY DO THIS AFTER YOU ARE CERTAIN THE BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED! It sets the BMS into a state that thinks the battery is fully charged, if your battery is at 50% then this process will make it think that the 50% state is the fully charged state and bad things will happen.

Maverick BMS manual reset:

1. Put the vehicle in ACC mode (push the START button without pressing the brake or put the key to ACC position) - do not start the engine.

2. Flash the high beams five times, then -

3. Press the brake pedal three times.

After a few seconds, the battery light on the dashboard should flash, indicating a successful reset.

But yeah, clearly the battery charging logic is not up to snuff, and at least one of the service bulletin/recalls addresses some parasitic drain somewhere if I recall correctly.

I've been attempting to do a BMS reset as I have a new AGM. I'm wondering; when you flash the hi beams, do you use the flash to pass mode or do the full switch between hi and low beam? Do you start in hi or lo beam? I think you're supposed to end in hi beam? So far, I have not been able to get the dashboard light confirmation.

 

[DS_Ohio]

I've been attempting to do a BMS reset as I have a new AGM. I'm wondering; when you flash the hi beams, do you use the flash to pass mode or do the full switch between hi and low beam? Do you start in hi or lo beam? I think you're supposed to end in hi beam? So far, I have not been able to get the dashboard light confirmation.

i tried many times to do the reset procedure (while battling battery 2 and a couple dealer visits). never got a dash confirmation. on warrantied battery 3 which is an agm this time, i parked it. disconnected the battery. charged it overnight, reconnected the battery. locked the doors and walked away for 10 hours. i'm confident this reset the bms because the deep sleep msgs are gone.

in hindsight i should have only walked away for 5 hours. then walked back the other 5.

 

[Techcar]

Sometimes there seems to be no rhyme or reason for all the different problems the truck has or why some like me don't seem to have any problems. But here is something you should watch and then decide if it only effects the Maverick .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P5Fo97SIHAg

 

[Luthinator]

You still under warranty? Call Ford and ask them to help you find another dealer service to try. Your selling dealer may just be waiting for your warranty to end before they magically "find the actual problems".

I have the extended warranty. its beneficial for them to utilize the warranty because its guaranteed revenue. I looked into other Ford dealerships. I have no idea if they accept the extended warranty I bought through my ford.

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