Hertz K165 with Sound Deadening in Passenger Front Door

[chiko]

Many thanks to @LazyMex2022 (also a user here as @LaxyMex2022 )and @Bumpers & Doors DIY for there excellent videos on YouTube.

It is raining today and I do not have a garage so this is what I did yesterday. Then I screwed up with one of the bolts during re-assembly and decided to stop.

Window controller pops out pretty easily. Start near the back.

Bolts exposed by removing the window controller trim panel. 7mm.

Backside of the interior door panel. There are two clips along the bottom that are kind of stiff to remove. The white fasteners are weird 13mm bolts that rotate 90^ (EDIT: I was wrong in the original post that it was 180^) to release from metal trim. I will coat the back of this panel with closed cell foam.

Door panel inner liner. I removed the metal bracket unnecessarily but it did make access to the wiring harness easier. I removed the 3 bolts holding the window motor. The motor stuck to the panel stiffly but then fell off the panel as it was removed. Just pull harder.

I removed a series of zip-ties to separate the harness from the inner panel to expose the metal door.

These bolts secure the window to the inner plastic panel that has rigging to raise and lower the window. LazyMex2022 does a great job in his video to document the process. The window sits in U shaped clamps and the window has two holes in the bottom. The clamps in the rigging have two plastic posts that fit in the window holes. Its unclear to me how exactly the T30 bolts relate to the window holes and U clamps; the bolts probably go through the holes but you cannot fully see what is going on.

I used paper backed, foil style tape to secure the window to the door and prevent it from falling. Crack the window slightly open. Lift the window while pulling down on the rigging to separate the inner panel from the window. The foil tape is a PITA but is pretty strong, does not stretch and does not leave adhesive residue.

Hard to see in the pictures, but the windows have two holes in the bottom. The Raise/Lower cabling on the back of the inner pane have clamps that lock into these windows. The T30 bolts appear to hold the clamps firm but you also have to release a nub on each clamp from the hole. Watch the relevant section on the LazyMex2022 video.

Inner door panel rigging for window.

The Amazon Basic kit included 10 panels. I used 4 along the back wall and left 3 for each front door which was almost exactly right. I also had some 2" Boom Mat tape to fill in any gaps or shortages.

Back side of the door trim before.

Closed cell foam installed. I cut the foam top and bottom to make the pieces easier to work with. After doing a rough fit, I cut the paper backing with a razor and then worked from the center to the edges left and right.

I got the inner panel reinstalled to the metal door without too much difficulty. The window can twist so I needed to get the forward clamp in the hole first and then the rearward clamp.

Then I started making mistakes. The plastic "bolts" aligned pretty easily back to the metal door. I confused the bolt that holds the metal bracket near the window motor with the bolt that secures the clamp to the window. I used a magnet (from the speaker) to prevent the wrong window bolt to the socket to keep it from falling behind the inner bracket but this still happened. I recognized that things were going wrong and packed it in for another day. Then it rained and here I am.

Before I posted this long thread, a search for "Sound deaden" yielded no results. Now that I have posted, several relevant threads are shown.

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[zach57x]

Any reason for using closed cell foam
Over cld on the inside of the panels?

 

[CarbonGrayFX4]

Great pictures! They will come in handy for me some day, I am sure. Clean install!

 

[chiko]

Any reason for using closed cell foam
Over cld on the inside of the panels?

Over could be misinterpreted here (on top of vs preference). I did not put the CCF over the Butyl panels. Panels on the metal door which are strong as the panels are heavy. CCF on the plastic trim exposed to the cabin so that the speaker does not vibrate the plastic. On youtube its essentially what LazyMex2022 had done although LazyMex2022 also put some limited butyl on the plastic bits.

I MADE ANOTHER MISTAKE YESTERDAY BUT ONLY DISCOVERED IT TODAY AFTER RECOVERING THE LOOSE BOLT. Taking the power window module off the panel is a very bad idea. I managed to get the window attached to the harness clamps yesterday. But when I tried to do it today the harness kept sliding and I could not get the clamps fully attached to the glass. The power window module fixes the clamps and harness in place. I managed to get it back together after a bit of struggle after attaching the power window module. Then it started raining again.

 

[zach57x]

Yeah meant as in preference. Will
Be doing mine soon and planned on doing CLD on the metal door and the plastic panel

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

Over could be misinterpreted here (on top of vs preference). I did not put the CCF over the Butyl panels. Panels on the metal door which are strong as the panels are heavy. CCF on the plastic trim exposed to the cabin so that the speaker does not vibrate the plastic. On youtube its essentially what LazyMex2022 had done although LazyMex2022 also put some limited butyl on the plastic bits.

I MADE ANOTHER MISTAKE YESTERDAY BUT ONLY DISCOVERED IT TODAY AFTER RECOVERING THE LOOSE BOLT. Taking the power window module off the panel is a very bad idea. I managed to get the window attached to the harness clamps yesterday. But when I tried to do it today the harness kept sliding and I could not get the clamps fully attached to the glass. The power window module fixes the clamps and harness in place. I managed to get it back together after a bit of struggle after attaching the power window module. Then it started raining again.

Wow, great description of how to install sound deadening in the driver's door now only 3 more doors to go.
I don't have any intentions of doing what you did. I did add weather stripping to quiet any wind noise from the driver's door.

 

[chiko]

Wow, great description of how to install sound deadening in the driver's door now only 3 more doors to go.
I don't have any intentions of doing what you did. I did add weather stripping to quiet any wind noise from the driver's door.

It sucks but I ran out of closed cell foam doing the passenger door with none on the driver's side. I will probably order another set of CCF to do on the driver's side and tackle the backseats with just left over CCF. No way in hell I am ordering more butyl for the rear seats.

I like your idea of weather-stripping for wind noise.

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

It sucks but I ran out of closed cell foam doing the passenger door with none on the driver's side. I will probably order another set of CCF to do on the driver's side and tackle the backseats with just left over CCF. No way in hell I am ordering more butyl for the rear seats.

I like your idea of weather-stripping for wind noise.

It installs on the front edge of the rear passenger doors.
This is what I ordered specifically cut for the Maverick. The top is tapered. I had trim 3" off the bottom.

It's hard to see but it makes a nice seal.

 

[gjallen3]

It installs on the front edge of the rear passenger doors.
This is what I ordered specifically cut for the Maverick. The top is tapered. I had trim 3" off the bottom.

It's hard to see but it makes a nice seal.

[/QUOTE

Many thanks to @LazyMex2022 and @Bumpers & Doors DIY for there excellent videos on YouTube.

It is raining today and I do not have a garage so this is what I did yesterday. Then I screwed up with one of the bolts during re-assembly and decided to stop.

Window controller pops out pretty easily. Start near the back.

Bolts exposed by removing the window controller trim panel. 7mm.

Backside of the interior door panel. There are two clips along the bottom that are kind of stiff to remove. The white fasteners are weird 13mm bolts that rotate 90^ (EDIT: I was wrong in the original post that it was 180^) to release from metal trim. I will coat the back of this panel with closed cell foam.

Door panel inner liner. I removed the metal bracket unnecessarily but it did make access to the wiring harness easier. I removed the 3 bolts holding the window motor. The motor stuck to the panel stiffly but then fell off the panel as it was removed. Just pull harder.

I removed a series of zip-ties to separate the harness from the inner panel to expose the metal door.

These bolts secure the window to the inner plastic panel that has rigging to raise and lower the window. LazyMex2022 does a great job in his video to document the process. The window sits in U shaped clamps and the window has two holes in the bottom. The clamps in the rigging have two plastic posts that fit in the window holes. Its unclear to me how exactly the T30 bolts relate to the window holes and U clamps; the bolts probably go through the holes but you cannot fully see what is going on.

I used paper backed, foil style tape to secure the window to the door and prevent it from falling. Crack the window slightly open. Lift the window while pulling down on the rigging to separate the inner panel from the window. The foil tape is a PITA but is pretty strong, does not stretch and does not leave adhesive residue.

Inner door panel rigging for window.

The Amazon Basic kit included 10 panels. I used 4 along the back wall and left 3 for each front door which was almost exactly right. I also had some 2" Boom Mat tape to fill in any gaps or shortages.

Back side of the door trim before.

Closed cell foam installed. I cut the foam top and bottom to make the pieces easier to work with. After doing a rough fit, I cut the paper backing with a razor and then worked from the center to the edges left and right.

I got the inner panel reinstalled to the metal door without too much difficulty. The window can twist so I needed to get the forward clamp in the hole first and then the rearward clamp.

Then I started making mistakes. The plastic "bolts" aligned pretty easily back to the metal door. I confused the bolt that holds the metal bracket near the window motor with the bolt that secures the clamp to the window. I used a magnet (from the speaker) to prevent the wrong window bolt to the socket to keep it from falling behind the inner bracket but this still happened. I recognized that things were going wrong and packed it in for another day. Then it rained and here I am.

Before I posted this long thread, a search for "Sound deaden" yielded no results. Now that I have posted, several relevant threads are shown.

I really admire your hard work but that project is quite an undertaking. I'm actually very happy with how quiet my Maverick is. i thought about doing this but I'm not sure it will make enough of a difference for me. It will make the doors close more solidly. I'll give you that.

 

[wax87]

Wow, great description of how to install sound deadening in the driver's door now only 3 more doors to go.
I don't have any intentions of doing what you did. I did add weather stripping to quiet any wind noise from the driver's door.

Is that glued in?

 

[Glen Baker LLC]

Is that glued in?

No
Look at the picture and description just two postings above yours my post #8

 

[chiko]

Kind of weird but also classic.

The Hertz tweeter comes with two mounting options. Flush-mount is just a plastic ring with a spring steel toothed ring that wraps around it. Surface mount is a sort of weird short tube with parabolic slices across two sides. Pics are coming. It is supposed to be a friction fit but it is too tight for me.

I googled it and got nothing. I called Crutchfield tech support and their knowledge base acknowledge the problem but had no solutions. I was very much afraid that any force would just break those solder connections.

So I drew upon my vast knowledge from Advrider.com and working with difficult motorcycle maintenance. Put the tweeter body in the freezer overnight. The next morning dunk the plastic parts from Hertz into a pot of water. Bring the water and plastic to a near boil where bubbles just start to form. Quickly but cautiously insert the frozen tweeter into the warm plastic body and it fits easily. Ambient temperature was about 60^F.

It is a little bit crooked and I have not tested functionality yet but the temperatures were not extreme.

Removal will probably require a large flat head screwdriver and a hammer.

For the driver side I improved the situation a little bit. I made the hole through the mount with a 3/8" bit and that just passed the capacitor with M/F disconnects in the door cavity. I also moved the hole to be in the deepest part of the mount and oriented the solder connections in that deepest part. Side effect is that the logo is now at 9 o'clock. One setback is that I tried to support the panel in the pot a bit and this slightly flattened to round opening so it was still very difficult. On the second attempt for the driver side, I put a metal binder clip on the pot so that the panel could rest against that with anything contacting the mount.

EDIT - the instructions from Hertz are pathetic. In a bout 20 different languages they have platitudes like

• Wear saftey glasses.
• Do not install any components in the engine compartment
• Avoid sharp edges while routing the cables.

There is NOTHING about how the manufacturer supplied parts are supposed to fit together. It is pretty obvious about how to install a set of speakers but JFC.​

Installing the decorative door panel is somewhat easier with the window down.

 

[Carlitos_92]

Kind of weird but also classic.

The Hertz tweeter comes with two mounting options. Flush-mount is just a plastic ring with a spring steel toothed ring that wraps around it. Surface mount is a sort of weird short tube with parabolic slices across two sides. Pics are coming. It is supposed to be a friction fit but it is too tight for me.

I googled it and got nothing. I called Crutchfield tech support and their knowledge base acknowledge the problem but had no solutions. I was very much afraid that any force would just break those solder connections.

So I drew upon my vast knowledge from Advrider.com and working with difficult motorcycle maintenance. Put the tweeter body in the freezer overnight. The next morning dunk the plastic parts from Hertz into a pot of water. Bring the water and plastic to a near boil where bubbles just start to form. Quickly but cautiously insert the frozen tweeter into the warm plastic body and it fits easily. Ambient temperature was about 60^F.

It is a little bit crooked and I have not tested functionality yet but the temperatures were not extreme.

Removal will probably require a large flat head screwdriver and a hammer.

EDIT - the instructions from Hertz are pathetic. In a bout 20 different languages they have platitudes like

• Wear saftey glasses.
• Do not install any components in the engine compartment
• Avoid sharp edges while routing the cables.

There is NOTHING about how the manufacturer supplied parts are supposed to fit together. It is pretty obvious about how to install a set of speakers but JFC.​

Is that the door sail panel? What are you doing with the tweeters/holes in the dash?

 

[chiko]

Is that the door sail panel? What are you doing with the tweeters/holes in the dash?

I do not know it by that name but it is the bottom of the A pillar trim that mounts to the door.
The Hertz kit included a mounting post that was tubular and aimed the tweeter more directly as the cab. My "research/prep" included several potential problems that I was not able to fully resolve.

1. Yes I drilled a hole in that plastic trim panel. 1/2" wide in order to feed the insulated male connector through. Related I used some JB Plastic Weld and PVC panel to provide a bit more beef to that area so the screws for the mount have something to bite into. During the reinstall I noticed that I used too much PVC and it interfered with the door trim. While resolving that I noted that the JB plastic weld did NOT adhere to the A pillar trim (later learned is called a sail panel). It seemed good at first so perhaps scuffing the plastic is required.
2. I gleaned that the OEM tweeter is 8 ohm while the Hertz is 4 ohm. I assume that the Hertz tweeter is paired with the woofer by people more competent than me. One source indicated that the capacitor with the Hertz tweeter is protection. Crutchfield tech support indicated that the capacitor is a frequency filter. IDK.
3. I plan to just disconnect the Ford tweeter. The cap on the Hertz tweeter is near the end of the wiring and I have no clue if the Ford tweeter also has a cap or what it would mean to wire both caps in series. But for the hole drilling into trim plastic, this solution seemed the best to me.

My PVC strip behind the Ford trim ended up interfering with the door panel trim so I am going to have to dremel that out before I can finish the passenger door.

 

[Carlitos_92]

I do not know it by that name but it is the bottom of the A pillar trim that mounts to the door.
The Hertz kit included a mounting post that was tubular and aimed the tweeter more directly as the cab. My "research/prep" included several potential problems that I was not able to fully resolve.

1. Yes I drilled a hole in that plastic trim panel. 1/2" wide in order to feed the insulated male connector through. Related I used some JB Plastic Weld and PVC panel to provide a bit more beef to that area so the screws for the mount have something to bite into.
2. I gleaned that the OEM tweeter is 8 ohm while the Hertz is 4 ohm. I assume that the Hertz tweeter is paired with the woofer by people more competent than me. One source indicated that the capacitor with the Hertz tweeter is protection. Crutchfield tech support indicated that the capacitor is a frequency filter. IDK.
3. I plan to just disconnect the Ford tweeter. The cap on the Hertz tweeter is near the end of the wiring and I have no clue if the Ford tweeter also has a cap or what it would mean to wire both caps in series. But for the hole drilling into trim plastic, this solution seemed the best to me.

My PVC strip behind the Ford trim ended up interfering with the door panel trim so I am going to have to dremel that out before I can finish the passenger door.

Sail panel, yes. I have heard there is no room to flush-mount anything there, but what you're doing is probably a decent option, as long as the speaker doesn't exert a whole lot of leverage on that trim piece when you're driving around or slamming doors.

I had to trim out some plastic in the dash locations to put my tweeters in the factory spots, but yours will surely have better stereo imaging the way you are doing it.

You are correct with the ohm descriptions. How much it matters depends on how you are wiring it up and what the head unit ends up "seeing."

The capacitors are bass blockers. I would consider that "protection," too. I am dealing with that with my replacement rear speakers.

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