Sound Deadening Front Doors

[Aaron F]

Crossover is somewhere in the 3k to 4.5k range so of course the highs are the same they are coming from the dash tweeters.

It looks like the deadening is more effective at very low frequencies. I'm curious if there is still any resonance.

I turned on some EDM type music on pandora last night that has lots of extended lows. Switching balance from side to side at volume 18, I could hear a slight buzz from the bare door, and nothing from the deadened door.

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[CurtisB]

I had that "buzzin" issue happened to me. Had to do a lot of readjusting and putting the gain just right so I didn't hear it from that one channel. Seems to be the norm for our Mavericks. Never had this issue before.

 

[Aaron F]

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I had that "buzzin" issue happened to me. Had to do a lot of readjusting and putting the gain just right so I didn't hear it from that one channel. Seems to be the norm for our Mavericks. Never had this issue before.

At the moment, the buzzing seems to be solved on the right side. We shall see if it stays that way when I connect a more powerful amplifier. Fingers crossed. I think the butyl tape really helps.

 

[Maverick_Dad]

I was very thankful to find a post by BLUE1870 with detailed instructions on how to remove the inner door panel with the window regulator. I knew if I was going down this road, I wanted to put deadener on the outside door skin, and I would have been lost without his picture (which I'll include here as well). For cost to performance ratio, I went with the Amazon Basics as a CLD. I also bought ZMXT Butyl tape to prevent the nasty rattles that tend to happen between the 2 layers of plastic on the door skin. To further reduce any rattling, I also bought the AggSound 157mil Closed cell foam to apply to the door panel to decouple it from the speaker panel. I am not super mechanically inclined, but with some youtube videos and info from BLUE1870 on hand, I was able to tackle the first door without much issue. All in all, I was happy with the quality of the products I ended up choosing. The amazon product seemed heavier than the previous Killmat I have used. The butyl tape is definitly the way to go around the perimeter of the 2 fused door pieces, and the CCF had a nice adhesive and what I think is ample thickness to keep me from having any issues. I look forward to having another good day to do the drivers door and get the Audison Processor installed.

Do you know about how much of each deadener material you ordered? I'm about to order all of the supplies to do this myself while upgrading the front speakers.

 

[Aaron F]

Do you know about how much of each deadener material you ordered? I'm about to order all of the supplies to do this myself while upgrading the front speakers.

I bought the $47 kit with 34 pieces of amazon CLD sound deadener. This was way more than I needed, but I lined the entire underside of the back seat cubby as well.

For the butyl rope, it looks like I bought a 13ft roll, and that was enough for both front doors.

For the Closed cell foam, it was a 18sq ft roll of 157mil, also more than enough for both front doors.

If I had to do it again, I would probably spend the extra money and do it with Resonix CLD and CCF Decoupler. The cost is significantly more, but the material is far superior in quality and results, especially if it's something you are only ever going to do once.

 

[Maverick_Dad]

I bought the $47 kit with 34 pieces of amazon CLD sound deadener. This was way more than I needed, but I lined the entire underside of the back seat cubby as well.

For the butyl rope, it looks like I bought a 13ft roll, and that was enough for both front doors.

For the Closed cell foam, it was a 18sq ft roll of 157mil, also more than enough for both front doors.

If I had to do it again, I would probably spend the extra money and do it with Resonix CLD and CCF Decoupler. The cost is significantly more, but the material is far superior in quality and results, especially if it's something you are only ever going to do once.

I appreciate the info! I’ve been trying to figure out what I want to go with. Seems like most people say either just go with Amazon or buck up and buy Resonix. I might do the NVX triple layer since I can get 40sqft for $140.

 

[Carlitos_92]

I appreciate the info! I’ve been trying to figure out what I want to go with. Seems like most people say either just go with Amazon or buck up and buy Resonix. I might do the NVX triple layer since I can get 40sqft for $140.

As another data point, I went with this Canopus (US-made) product in 50 mil thickness, and it made a drastic difference... And that is without me removing the second inner door panels.

The most important thing with any of these products is that you roll them flat with a metal roller. Most brands have dimpling or other texture so you can see what has been rolled sufficiently.

No matter which way you go, I am positive you will be amazed with the improvement inside the truck.

 

[Maverick_Dad]

As another data point, I went with this Canopus (US-made) product in 50 mil thickness, and it made a drastic difference... And that is without me removing the second inner door panels.

The most important thing with any of these products is that you roll them flat with a metal roller. Most brands have dimpling or other texture so you can see what has been rolled sufficiently.

No matter which way you go, I am positive you will be amazed with the improvement inside the truck.

The stuff I’m looking at is 125 mil thickness, but I figured anything was better than nothing. This stuff seems to be a decent balance of doing two layers but cheaper than other options. I plan to line the inside door panel and also the door skin behind the window.

 

[squirlz]

Resonix is far superior to other brands, but you pay for it. I use CLD squares on my front outer door skin, all door panels and roof. I used CLD Lite on the rear outer door skin, B & C pillar meta and rear wall. The Front doors are noticeably more dead than the rears, but no speaker in the rear. I used some Stinger CLD on all the other plastic panels as it is not as critical. Then a layer of thisulate behind every panel and 2 on the roof on the more open spots.

I get some light buzzing at high volume from the doors on some songs. Midbass is crossed over at 85 Hz currently, going to raise that to take some energy out of the doors and also try add a front sub.

Build log in my signiture for more details.

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