Ford pass saying battery saver mode

[Red Eyes - Wide Shut]

If sure the battery is charged up - you can do the BMS reset right now at home - no need waiting to find out. Be better for them to reset some other module or settings. (BMS reset isn't a module anyway - it's just the figures dealing with your battery being set back to 0)
In your manual under replacing the battery.
Confirm it can sit overnight locked too - the next step for that - BMS Relearn.

Because another poster did have some stuck values taken from the BMS figures, that are then used to decide to send up or act on for deep sleep mode. Those figures had a stuck low SOC%, and it acted on it immediately after parking.
That's the reset the SSM gives instructions on. That's more likely the one they need to jump to for you if it's the issue.

Your account profile and such is probably messed up too - not sure how you could get a Fordpass notice of power saving - when the truck side reports it can't connect to Fordpass account.

Thanks for all your insight and information, it helps. I can't tell you how literally frustrated, I am with this whole issue that won't seem to go away. This is not the best way to experience first ownership of a hybrid. Not a good look at all.

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[Master Blaster]

The voltage reading in Engineering Mode is useless, as it only measures the charging voltage with the ignition on. Get a meter on the battery itself, with everything off and after waiting 8hrs to let the surface charge dissipate.

The BMS only allows the battery to charge to a ridiculously low 70% charge, so you should never see more than about 12.2V on even a week-old battery. That's how the sulfation damage is occurring, ruining an awful lot of perfectly good batteries.

If its reading below 11.9V then the battery is critically damaged, Battery Saver mode kicks in and shuts off nonessential stuff like cabin lighting, passenger door unlocking, and the remote features like FordPass. If its over that and the battery is more than about 8 months old then its probably ruined, but still not bad enough for Ford to give you warranty on the battery.

This problem only gets worse in lower winter temperatures while we patiently wait for Ford to release a BMS software fix instead of plugging A/C power utilization leaks.

 

[Flashflood140]

The voltage reading in Engineering Mode is useless, as it only measures the charging voltage with the ignition on. Get a meter on the battery itself, with everything off and after waiting 8hrs to let the surface charge dissipate.

The BMS only allows the battery to charge to a ridiculously low 70% charge, so you should never see more than about 12.2V on even a week-old battery. That's how the sulfation damage is occurring, ruining an awful lot of perfectly good batteries.

If its reading below 11.9V then the battery is critically damaged, Battery Saver mode kicks in and shuts off nonessential stuff like cabin lighting, passenger door unlocking, and the remote features like FordPass. If its over that and the battery is more than about 8 months old then its probably ruined, but still not bad enough for Ford to give you warranty on the battery.

This problem only gets worse in lower winter temperatures while we patiently wait for Ford to release a BMS software fix instead of plugging A/C power utilization leaks.

I also have done with a meter the battery is perfectly fine 12.7 to .8 i have a good battery. And alternator

 

[Red Eyes - Wide Shut]

I also have done with a meter the battery is perfectly fine 12.7 to .8 i have a good battery. And alternator

The Maverick doesn't have an alternator.

 

[HeyBales]

There are 3 or 4 PID's for the TCU about the battery that appear are supposed to be current values, just saw them last night.
If the right one is stuck on prior or corrupted value that indicates low battery - likely your problem.

Have them search for that, it would be the same issue as another poster had.

 

[Flashflood140]

So is there anyway to reset that stupid modem. I had battery issues in my fusion and I just put a new battery in it, and it fixed everything I didn't even reset the bms when I did it 18 almost 19 months of care free driving.

 

[Master Blaster]

So is there anyway to reset that stupid modem. I had battery issues in my fusion and I just put a new battery in it, and it fixed everything I didn't even reset the bms when I did it 18 almost 19 months of care free driving.

You have a dying and heavily-sulfated battery, courtesy of the BMS programming error. Why do you want to reset the modem, when it has nothing to do with the fault?

 

[Master Blaster]

The Maverick doesn't have an alternator.

The EcoBoost has an alternator, while the Hybrid does not. They both have the faulty BMS programming however.

 

[HeyBales]

The voltage reading in Engineering Mode is useless, as it only measures the charging voltage with the ignition on. Get a meter on the battery itself, with everything off and after waiting 8hrs to let the surface charge dissipate.

The BMS only allows the battery to charge to a ridiculously low 70% charge, so you should never see more than about 12.2V on even a week-old battery. That's how the sulfation damage is occurring, ruining an awful lot of perfectly good batteries.

If its reading below 11.9V then the battery is critically damaged, Battery Saver mode kicks in and shuts off nonessential stuff like cabin lighting, passenger door unlocking, and the remote features like FordPass. If its over that and the battery is more than about 8 months old then its probably ruined, but still not bad enough for Ford to give you warranty on the battery.

This problem only gets worse in lower winter temperatures while we patiently wait for Ford to release a BMS software fix instead of plugging A/C power utilization leaks.

Just did long trip to NY from KC. 3 days up - 5 days of long drives there - 2 long days back.
Battery charged up to Ford's SOC of 85% - which is a full charge on their scale. (that's been reported by many, not just me, a new battery full charge is given a SOC of 85%)
It went to trickle charge at 80%, no more bouncing between 0 and 1 Amp it had done up to that point, which was obviously around 0.5 A in reality.
Since it reached 85%, it obviously wasn't 0 A for hours, but rather rounded down from less than 0.5 A.
Just wanted to confirm what others have reported - the 80% figure seen in the PIDs, if actually used, is when trickle charge level is used - and 85% is fully charged.
Now, despite that - shouldn't take that many hours of driving to accomplish anyway.

Obviously while driving you can't get an accurate voltage reading on a battery, to get a corresponding SOC% value. So the SOC is math based from some initial figure. There tracking usage is messed up though.
Would be interesting for someone with an EB to use one of the scanners to see what is happening to Amps and Volts and SOC% each morning, and in real-time.

 

[Red Eyes - Wide Shut]

Just did long trip to NY from KC. 3 days up - 5 days of long drives there - 2 long days back.
Battery charged up to Ford's SOC of 85% - which is a full charge on their scale. (that's been reported by many, not just me, a new battery full charge is given a SOC of 85%)
It went to trickle charge at 80%, no more bouncing between 0 and 1 Amp it had done up to that point, which was obviously around 0.5 A in reality.
Since it reached 85%, it obviously wasn't 0 A for hours, but rather rounded down from less than 0.5 A.
Just wanted to confirm what others have reported - the 80% figure seen in the PIDs, if actually used, is when trickle charge level is used - and 85% is fully charged.
Now, despite that - shouldn't take that many hours of driving to accomplish anyway.

Obviously while driving you can't get an accurate voltage reading on a battery, to get a corresponding SOC% value. So the SOC is math based from some initial figure. There tracking usage is messed up though.
Would be interesting for someone with an EB to use one of the scanners to see what is happening to Amps and Volts and SOC% each morning, and in real-time.

I have Forscan. What are the steps to raise the charging level. I need to do something besides helplessly continually checking the battery's state of health. I just can't believe we are still having to talk about and deal with this.

 

[HeyBales]

I have Forscan. What are the steps to raise the charging level. I need to do something besides helplessly continually checking the battery's state of health. I just can't believe we are still having to talk about and deal with this.

If it's a PID that is even actually used (because the only reports I've seen on it in the past included 3 things done at the same time - so rather impossible to logically say it was this change that made the difference), it's these related ones - might as well correct all of them with your actual battery stats. As they are currently read on my 24MY - no option is checked.
The view you see of options in the examples is merely the checkbox in the middle of the range.

BCM.BATT_CAP, CCA, DES, MAN eh skippable?, SIZE, TYPE.
Unshown BATT_SOC Charge level (thought I had it, but it displayed like the others a current null value) - this could be set to 85% as that is the max fully charged battery level. I'd bet 100% is an invalid figure so the setting is not even used then.
(for anyone wondering on 1st pic - yes 9 months is not 50 days, I did the BMS reset, which helped in no way except Zero out the charge/discharge PID's, and the day count)

After you make the changes - suggest a full charge, then unhook charger, and BMS relearn for 8 hrs overnight locked. Start off on best foot possible!

 

[Papa Joe]

2023 Hybrid with 30k miles. I had all the same symptoms; passenger side lock, no interior lights, Ford Pass alerts about battery saver mode, no remote start, etc. It took the dealer 2 days to determine the battery failed and needs replacement. Of course they did not have the battery and had to order it. They promised I'll get the truck tomorrow. They did provide a new Ford Escape loaner so it stings a little less.

 

[HeyBales]

2023 Hybrid with 30k miles. I had all the same symptoms; passenger side lock, no interior lights, Ford Pass alerts about battery saver mode, no remote start, etc. It took the dealer 2 days to determine the battery failed and needs replacement. Of course they did not have the battery and had to order it. They promised I'll get the truck tomorrow. They did provide a new Ford Escape loaner so it stings a little less.

Make sure to let us know if they automatically upgraded to AGM instead of what had been the normal warranty replacement FLA.

Especially if you made no demands about it, they just did it.

 

[Red Eyes - Wide Shut]

If it's a PID that is even actually used (because the only reports I've seen on it in the past included 3 things done at the same time - so rather impossible to logically say it was this change that made the difference), it's these related ones - might as well correct all of them with your actual battery stats. As they are currently read on my 24MY - no option is checked.
The view you see of options in the examples is merely the checkbox in the middle of the range.

BCM.BATT_CAP, CCA, DES, MAN eh skippable?, SIZE, TYPE.
Unshown BATT_SOC Charge level (thought I had it, but it displayed like the others a current null value) - this could be set to 85% as that is the max fully charged battery level. I'd bet 100% is an invalid figure so the setting is not even used then.
(for anyone wondering on 1st pic - yes 9 months is not 50 days, I did the BMS reset, which helped in no way except Zero out the charge/discharge PID's, and the day count)

After you make the changes - suggest a full charge, then unhook charger, and BMS relearn for 8 hrs overnight locked. Start off on best foot possible!

If it's a PID that is even actually used (because the only reports I've seen on it in the past included 3 things done at the same time - so rather impossible to logically say it was this change that made the difference), it's these related ones - might as well correct all of them with your actual battery stats. As they are currently read on my 24MY - no option is checked.
The view you see of options in the examples is merely the checkbox in the middle of the range.

BCM.BATT_CAP, CCA, DES, MAN eh skippable?, SIZE, TYPE.
Unshown BATT_SOC Charge level (thought I had it, but it displayed like the others a current null value) - this could be set to 85% as that is the max fully charged battery level. I'd bet 100% is an invalid figure so the setting is not even used then.
(for anyone wondering on 1st pic - yes 9 months is not 50 days, I did the BMS reset, which helped in no way except Zero out the charge/discharge PID's, and the day count)

After you make the changes - suggest a full charge, then unhook charger, and BMS relearn for 8 hrs overnight locked. Start off on best foot possible!

Should I disconnect the battery during charging after making the changes.Then reconnect and do the double lock and sit for 8? If not connect the charger at the battery or under the hood at the jump posts while leaving it connected.

I have to tell you, that if you own a Ford you must have Forscan. It gives you the ability to change and or fix and correct many functions. This is my second Ford. Last one was 40 years ago. I am again disappointed and this will be the last. Quality?

 

[Cherokee]

Op,
I got my 2024 Ecoboost Lariat on 12/31/24.
At 10,700 miles now, it came with a Motorcraft AGM battery.
It sat two weeks untouched last winter due to ice with all the from the factory battery drains on.

Never saw a Low battery sleep mode or anything. To this day I have never seen it.

That tells me it’s fixable.

Did mine get an update others did not ?
Because I purchased it so late in the year ?
I don’t have a clue.
Is it because I got a better than most AGM ?
I have not a clue.

My BMS (Battery Management System)
Charges my AGM to peak of 12.7 vdc at shut down after a drive and an at rest voltage (after 6 hours of sitting) of 12.5 vdc.
I am watching it closely,
Will it get through this winter ?
Who the F knows.

Did you know that,
Because of the ridiculous drains on a car battery in these over engineered over censored modern vehicles Interstate battery and several others only offer a two year pro rated warranty?

If I get a year and a half I’ll be happy.
I figure I’ll get one under warranty.
And the next one, the one I buy with my money I’ll set up an on board 1.5-2.0 amp tender/conditioner. And I’ll buy the biggest capacity , biggest CCA that will fit.

And Fagetaboutit!

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