- First Name
- Mike
- Joined
- May 3, 2024
- Threads
- 4
- Messages
- 4,941
- Reaction score
- 4,531
- Location
- KC Metro area
- Vehicle(s)
- 2005 Toyota RAV4, 2024 XLT Hybrid
- Engine
- 2.5L Hybrid
Ohhhh - 12V switch (though the high fuse Amp and differences seems in excess) would explain why the PID's have no V or A readings, just yes/no, true/false.I expect full bore draw would be only before other heat available. Maybe the generator current is bypassing the dcdc low reading increase with that reading being only HVB provided current to provide voltage control for the smoothing of the 3 phase generated current. This is all way outside my pay grade, etc. would the 3 ph dc even have to be smoothed for the heater?
12V switched relay in the PTC, allows the 220V to come in to PTC when called for from the generator directly, which runs when the engine is running, outside the DCDC convertor.
Like the AC doesn't show up on the Hi reading either, not that I've seen anyway.
And since 12V to switch on a relay wouldn't take 12 Amps, throw in some extra power to do something in the PTC itself to that 220 V.
Because I've got a HeatPump crankcase heater at home I ended up not needing, so used in a outside cat box under some blankets. 120 V, I should measure the amps, on at like 40 and increases resistance colder it goes, same theory I understand as PTC heater.
Saying that, I guess the PTC in the Mav should be less energy when it's warmer, and I was like at 45 F, so on the edge of not being used.
Well - 60 F gone today - back to 30's tomorrow, plenty of better testing when I can remember!
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