volksnuts’ Lariat Maverick build

[volksnuts]

Looks good. Red and white are my 2 choices in vehicles. Do you know your current ride height? I just installed the Silvers. What a job that was to adjust. Mine is at 30" from the ground to the top of the fender wells. And for some reason the rears are all the way down. I'm going up on the rears a 1/2 inch.

Mine are 29.5” front and rear
Only occasional scraping of the fender liner when it’s a big bump or have people in the truck
If I remember correctly I had the fronts down an extra .75” originally and that was too low
Scraped everywhere, wore holes in my fender liners

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[Mavericksport]

Mine are 29.5” front and rear
Only occasional scraping of the fender liner when it’s a big bump or have people in the truck
If I remember correctly I had the fronts down an extra .75” originally and that was too low
Scraped everywhere, wore holes in my fender liners

Thanks, for that. I'm worried about rubbing. I raised the front to 30 1/4 and the rear to 30 1/2. I'm worried about the front, because my summer wheels are 1 inch taller. So 1/2 more on the ground and 1/2 in the fender wells. Also my rear coilovers are making knock noises over bumps?

 

[volksnuts]

Thanks, for that. I'm worried about rubbing. I raised the front to 30 1/4 and the rear to 30 1/2. I'm worried about the front, because my summer wheels are 1 inch taller. So 1/2 more on the ground and 1/2 in the fender wells. Also my rear coilovers are making knock noises over bumps?

One of my rear upper mounts had a loose bolt out of the box that we didn’t notice

 

[Lane]

Mine are 29.5” front and rear
Only occasional scraping of the fender liner when it’s a big bump or have people in the truck

This is what my measurements are right now as well. Same results with only an occasional rub. I think this is the sweet spot.

Also my rear coilovers are making knock noises over bumps?

I had that after initial install in the rear as well. Re-set the spring preload, retightened the collar jamb nut on the shock body, retorqued every nut and bolt back there, and it took care of the noise.

 

[Mavericksport]

One of my rear upper mounts had a loose bolt out of the box that we didn’t notice

The allen bolt and nut?

 

[Mavericksport]

This is what my measurements are right now as well. Same results with minimal rubbing. I think this is the sweet spot.



I had that after initial install in the rear as well. Re-set the spring preload, retightened the collar jamb nut on the shock body, retorqued every nut and bolt back there, and it took care of the noise.

Thanks I will look into that.

 

[Mavericksport]

Thanks I will look into that.

Yours it at 29" or 30"?

 

[volksnuts]

The allen bolt and nut?

I don’t think it was an allen
I don’t actually remember

but spring preload could be it as well

 

[volksnuts]

Son checked one of my dream list (sort of, my dream is EK9 but close enough)
FL5 Civic Type R in Championship White
For the first time ever someone in the family has a cooler car than me

 

[volksnuts]

So I found my forscan laptop in a drawer (I didn’t put it there)
Charged it up and got the newest version
Annoyed to see the ACM does not show in easy mode for me
I’m trying to get the EQ flat because I am sure I’m missing out on lows because of the 35hz cutoff
I looked through the spreadsheets and didn’t see anything that matched or was similar to my built as codes

While I was in there I redid what the dealer undid when they flashed one of the modules (foglight and double honk with key out of the truck while running)
I poked around a little bit and found I could add a heated steering wheel button to the screen for some reason

 

[volksnuts]

Oh and I think the PSCM module got updated because I was able to turn off AS/S in easy mode
Gave 3 options…. Enable, disable with something about steering wheel and disable without steering wheel
I forgot exactly what it said but it appears to be working
Acts like my F150 when I disabled it

 

[volksnuts]

On the way to work today…. The AS/S did not activate in the normal spots where it would usually
Will report if something changes

 

[mfergel]

Might seem a little counter-intuitive, but when the vehicle is running, any additional batteries will put more of a load on the alternator which has to charge them. Read more on the topic here. Generally, a battery should be just to start the vehicle, and the alternator is to provide power for the accessories. Unless you want to listen with the vehicle off - then a 2nd battery and a dual-battery isolator would be the way to go. But most people don't have a need to run the system hard with the engine off.

A stiffening capacitor was what I'd used in the past but since I haven't been that far into car audio in a while, I don't know if it's still a thing. After all, a lot of today's amplifier options are class D and use a whole lot less power than the prior generation used to. Crutchfield's site has a good short description of stiffening capacitors.

Otherwise, consider an amplifier upgrade to something that's class D. JL audio, Kicker, Alpine, Soundstream, and others offer very compact amps that are really efficient and put less of a demand on the vehicle's electrical system. I've been shopping for an amp/amps for my system build lately and I'm definitely going with a class D digital amp.

There is a really easy thing to check which I've seen contribute to problems like this. Someone installs a nice amp/amps that are hungry for current. Large gauge power cable is used to connect the amps to the positive terminal of the battery. Large gauge negative cable is used to connect the amps to a body ground. But most people never upgrade the factory cable which connects the negative of the battery to the body ground. I have friends that have spend way too much on the best brand name massive power cabling, but don't address that bottleneck. Only as good as its weakest link, as the saying goes. For what it's worth.

I always felt like you could really tell if the headlights dimmed every time a bass note hit.

 

[VRausch]

I would try the big 3 first, if its possible on the Maverick.

How To Perform The Big 3 Upgrade - Sonic Electronix Learning Center and Blog

I'm not sure that's an option with the BMS system, as I think the sensor is integrated into the positive cable, unfortunately. EDIT: The BMS sensor is on the negative cable.

If you do decide to look at capacitors, do some digging on them as many being sold are so small they are virtually useless. There are companies that make ultracap/supercapacitors for audio applications, but they are pricey.

 

[volksnuts]

Acquired some pieces for an upcoming project from across the pond
Copying @Mylittleute mostly
Won’t go as far but part way for sure

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