Video: DIY Cargo Box Rail & Anchor System

[Barracuda340]

They are M8 bolts. He is referring to the length (I think). They don't "bottom out" so you can go longer. 15mm should be ok.

The front 2 that hold the cleat are 6mm I believe,the center and aft are 8mm I believe. Only reason I put 2 at the front was that the two 6mmwould give a similar strength as the single 8mm bolts at the center and aft locations.

Sponsored

 

[Barracuda340]

I work in the aviation industry so I already have some railing, you just beat me to the punch lol, I have a hybrid on order. I am wondering if I could use this railing to hold down a camper top

I don't know if it would hold down a camper top. Arent those held on with clamps attached to the bed rail?

 

[wax87]

I don't know if it would hold down a camper top. Arent those held on with clamps attached to the bed rail?

Yes they are, but I am thinking of a home built one, we will see, If I am able to get a Mav,

 

[Bry@n]

Nice job. I always wondered why their DIY didnt go longer. It's a decent system, but I wasnt in love with how it looked. I was originally going to do that, and extend it. Heres another option. I'm in the aircraft industry. Heres what I went with. Surface mount L track. The Logistics tracks or L tracks are 6061-T6 aluminum. You can buy all sorts of attachments that fit these.

I bought the tracks undrilled. Then I drilled and countersunk them on a drill press for 90° countersink stainless steel torx screws. The set installed shown is the set I made for my friends truck. I got my truck last monday. Mine will be going on next week. See below for the rails I purchased undrilled, and the dimensions.

L track circular holes are 1 inch on center hole to hole. This makes these 4 of Fords threaded mounting positions perfect for this. I also made stainless steel end caps out of .040" 301 stainless steel for the rails. With my design you have to remove the front cleats. Note last pic for dimensions. The 46" tracks, and need about 5" removed from one end to fit. Www.cargoequipmentcorp.com

Great write up and I have a few questions if you wouldn't mind.

So the bar length you used was 41" (half inch on each side beyond holes). The front two holes were drilled for m6 screw, mid and rear for m8 screws. 14mm or 16mm length will be okay?

I do not have the ability to countersink the holes, so I would use flat screws. Are the ring adapters able to be moved in and out without going to the end of the rail? I assume thats why you countersunk the screws.

 

[OleKennyRoy]

Hey @Bry@n, I have a CAD drawing I made up for this. You would need a 90 Degree countersink for these, and the screws would need to be 25-30 mm grip length.

 

[Barracuda340]

Great write up and I have a few questions if you wouldn't mind.

So the bar length you used was 41" (half inch on each side beyond holes). The front two holes were drilled for m6 screw, mid and rear for m8 screws. 14mm or 16mm length will be okay?

I do not have the ability to countersink the holes, so I would use flat screws. Are the ring adapters able to be moved in and out without going to the end of the rail? I assume thats why you countersunk the screws.

I did the countersunk fasteners only because I wanted it to appear more factory looking. You could use a button head torx and it would look good as well. You can remove the cargo D rings without sliding them off the end.

Sponsored