Utility Trailer Suggestions

[vap0rtranz]

Cabela sells them up here but I don't think they have stores in Florida.

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[SgtLip]

Cabela sells them up here but I don't think they have stores in Florida.

Not that I've seen.

 

[Calicles]

I'm appreciative of the ideas being shared.

Maybe I don't need trailer brakes. I'm worried about being able to maximize towing capacity.

Are lightweight trailers less stable without load?

 

[notfast]

What are some possible suggestions for a utility trailer with electric brakes?

Got a size in mind? Single or tandem axle? As others mentioned, finding a single-axle with brakes is going to be tough, but if you want a larger (6x12/7x14) single axle, it's more likely to find one without having to special-order it.

Also, how often are you going to use it? And where is it going to be stored? If it's like once a quarter and stored in the garage, a cheaper trailer from like Tractor Supply or Trailers Plus will do it. If you're going to use it hard, put it away wet, and use it weekly, a Big Tex, Karavan, or ATC might be more suitable.

I'd like to be able to tow it long distances on the interstate going to auctions etc.

I'd suggest going with a 14" or 15" wheel. The smaller 8", 12", and 13" wheels will be spinning faster and heating up the wheel bearings.

I have very little experience outside of towing a uhaul trailer to pick up a motorcycle several years ago.

If you have a U-haul with a good rep nearby and just need one occasionally, renting a trailer might be a better option. About $40/day including the taxes and fees for the 6x12.

Are lightweight trailers less stable without load?

Any trailer is less stable without a load. A standard 5x8 wood-floor utility trailer probably weighs 500lbs empty and can have a gross of 2,000 or 3,500lbs depending on the axle. With that much possible variance in weight, it's going to bounce without a load. It's like my F-250. Rides like it has solid shock absorbers when it's empty. But load it up with a thousand pounds in the bed and hitch on a trailer with an additional 400lbs of tongue weight and it rides much nicer.

You may want to consider a trailer with a torsion axle. You'll have to weigh (no trailer pun intended) the benefits and see if they're worth it for you. Leaf sprung trailers are cheaper to buy and cheaper to fix, but ride pretty bouncy. Torsion axle trailers tend to be more expensive and the torsion axle isn't really serviceable and has to be replaced as a unit, but they ride much smoother, empty and loaded.

 

[Calicles]

Got a size in mind? Single or tandem axle? As others mentioned, finding a single-axle with brakes is going to be tough, but if you want a larger (6x12/7x14) single axle, it's more likely to find one without having to special-order it.

Also, how often are you going to use it? And where is it going to be stored? If it's like once a quarter and stored in the garage, a cheaper trailer from like Tractor Supply or Trailers Plus will do it. If you're going to use it hard, put it away wet, and use it weekly, a Big Tex, Karavan, or ATC might be more suitable.



I'd suggest going with a 14" or 15" wheel. The smaller 8", 12", and 13" wheels will be spinning faster and heating up the wheel bearings.



If you have a U-haul with a good rep nearby and just need one occasionally, renting a trailer might be a better option. About $40/day including the taxes and fees for the 6x12.



Any trailer is less stable without a load. A standard 5x8 wood-floor utility trailer probably weighs 500lbs empty and can have a gross of 2,000 or 3,500lbs depending on the axle. With that much possible variance in weight, it's going to bounce without a load. It's like my F-250. Rides like it has solid shock absorbers when it's empty. But load it up with a thousand pounds in the bed and hitch on a trailer with an additional 400lbs of tongue weight and it rides much nicer.

You may want to consider a trailer with a torsion axle. You'll have to weigh (no trailer pun intended) the benefits and see if they're worth it for you. Leaf sprung trailers are cheaper to buy and cheaper to fix, but ride pretty bouncy. Torsion axle trailers tend to be more expensive and the torsion axle isn't really serviceable and has to be replaced as a unit, but they ride much smoother, empty and loaded.

I considered just renting one as needed and I'm grateful you mentioned it. I'm worried that a last minute decision to go to a sale or auction leaves me at the mercy of availability at a rental center. Any trailer isn't going to be used that often. Maybe once a month on average. A single axle is preferred, 8'-12'.

The information you provided is incredibly insightful. Thank you.

 

[Wire4money]

^What Chris said. Finding a single axle trailer with already-installed electric brakes is going to be very tough, probably in special-order territory. You could do an add-on, I've never attempted so can't comment on that.
Parts Needed to Add Electric Drum Brakes to a Trailer | etrailer.com
You can more readily find double axle trailers with brakes but then as they're bigger/heavier it cuts into your GCWR.
Noticed this one, a BigTex single axle that lists brakes as an option at bottom of page:
Big Tex Trailers 30SV Single Axle Vanguard Trailer
Good luck.

I have a 30sv 5x10 single axle. It has been a good trailer.

 

[jimmy fitzwell]

Your desire to maximize towing capacity for long distances on the highway = trailer brakes.

 

[Rkbrumbelow]

If you need multiple trailers, harbor freight has several foldable trailers like we use. Those not in use get folded in half and they are inexpensive enough to buy a few and keep them customized.

if you are using tandem wheel trailers as others have said, get at least one with break assist and make certain you have a 7 pin plug.

only other suggestion I have is check the frontal slip and area. Many people ignore it but it’s frontal cross section and design accounts for trailer stability and towing resistance. A flat front trailer really drags on the air and so increases the force required to keep it at speed. A rounded or pointed front can make a big change (pointed being better as rounded ones tend to have some harmonics develop where it acts more like a wing pulling one side then the other.

 

[Fredvon4]

A question and a suggestion
1. Is there any factory connector in the cabin for the 7 pin connector to provide control to a add on Trailer brake controller?

I am partial to the
Tekonsha
controllers

A decade back I had a Big RV limited to 2000Lb towing. WE had a Smart car @ 1110Lbs we did NOT want to flat tow. I needed a Lite trailer that the dinky car would fit but be light enough to not over Grose the RV...so a sub 900Lb trailer
Company in Florida make Aluma brand all LITe with a lot of configurations including dealer installed electric brake kits....Dealer in Cen Tex carried the brand and they help me get it and the brake kit for about $3000 in 2013 dollars. RV and Smart car long gone but this is the best trailer I ever owned. 8.5' widest 12'x6.5' bed w/fold up full width ramp, 14.5' long

out in Texas WX every day for nearly a decade and still doesn't look like ass Only problem is the small deer stand sealed battery for emergency cut away stop ...this needs replaced every 18 months or so cus I don't have it on a battery tender and it sits too long between uses

 

[TomMav]

Research your area for an Aluma Trailer dealer. The trailers are very well built and lighter in weight due to the aluminum material. They are a bit higher in cost but tow light a dream. I have a 638 model (GVW of 2000 #) that I use all the time on my other vehicle but my new Mav will be the primary puller when it arrives. (Next year in April???) 2.0L with the 4K and FX4 package.

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