usb looking connector on B&O amp

[colinl]

What is this and if it's line out, does anyone make an adapter? When I first saw it I hoped it was toslink but no, definitely not.

Hmm, second question, actually. Does anyone intercept signal at the amp or just in the ACM harness? Signal connection is... Interesting looking.

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[Darnon]

It's in the A2B - Automotive Audio Bus format. You'd need something like the NAV-TV ZEN-A2B to directly extract audio from it or looks like mObridge makes a DSP/amp that directly interfaces in addition to extractors. PAC and Axxess also have offerings.

 

[colinl]

It's in the A2B - Automotive Audio Bus format. You'd need something like the NAV-TV ZEN-A2B to directly extract audio from it or looks like mObridge makes a DSP/amp that directly interfaces in addition to extractors. PAC and Axxess also have offerings.

Thanks! I did a bunch of digging yesterday and a Maverick-specific mObridge does not appear to be available yet from their US distributor (HQ and presumably engineering is Australia).

Most things that plug into the A2B connector want to plug in at the dash. It seems intended to replace the B&O amp entirely and can support all the audio things that ACM wants to do such as beeping backup sensors, seatbelt chime, and factory nav audio.

I was interested in it right now to add-on a subwoofer amp, but I can't justify the cost of an A2B interface for that. I think I'm just going to tap into the factory sub speaker-level and bring that into a Kicker Key 500.1. Hopefully if there is a bandpass filter being applied by the B&O amp the key will be able to compensate for it.

 

[Darnon]

I was interested in it right now to add-on a subwoofer amp, but I can't justify the cost of an A2B interface for that. I think I'm just going to tap into the factory sub speaker-level and bring that into a Kicker Key 500.1. Hopefully if there is a bandpass filter being applied by the B&O amp the key will be able to compensate for it.

That's all I did with mine and it sounds fine. There doesn't seem to be any appreciable high pass filter at least within the frequencies one would actually expect to drive a proper subwoofer at.

 

[Bmr4mav]

That's all I did with mine and it sounds fine. There doesn't seem to be any appreciable high pass filter at least within the frequencies one would actually expect to drive a proper subwoofer at.

did you hook up the remote turn wire to your aftermarket amp?

 

[Darnon]

did you hook up the remote turn wire to your aftermarket amp?

My amps don't necessarily require it as they can wake on signal input. Although I have noticed the infotainment communicating even when shut off may turn them on intermittently doing so. To prevent Deep Sleep it may be desirable to connect an amp to a remote wire.

 

[Bmr4mav]

My amps don't necessarily require it as they can wake on signal input. Although I have noticed the infotainment communicating even when shut off may turn them on intermittently doing so. To prevent Deep Sleep it may be desirable to connect an amp to a remote wire.

so with yours you simple used the inputs from the stock sub and hooked up power. Nice

 

[colinl]

My amps don't necessarily require it as they can wake on signal input. Although I have noticed the infotainment communicating even when shut off may turn them on intermittently doing so. To prevent Deep Sleep it may be desirable to connect an amp to a remote wire.

one thing that I've noticed with 12v switched remote power-on going into fuse #3 is that as soon as I kill the ignition my subwoofer amp shuts off. this is expected but it sounds weird when the factory stereo keeps playing until a door is opened, or if you're wired, when you unplug the phone.

in hindsight I probably should have used a better line-out converter from the B&O sub speaker-level, one with remote power-on. would have been less wiring and would have stayed on with the rest of the system, and there's options that are inexpensive. not sure what I was thinking...

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