Tow mode in a hybrid

[jonathan1994]

What is tow modes priority with the 2.5L hybrid?

Is it trying to keep the electric motors or transmission cool by running the ICE all the time for fluid circulation?

Or is it just about performance by having the ICE ready to go and keeping the battery topped off for available power?

Or just taking most of the extra load off the electric motors by using the ICE for most power?

It seems to me you could just use normal mode or “LOW” and better manage your battery level and gas mileage.

Yes, I know the brake/gas/steering inputs are nerfed for tow and sport mode. Is anything else?

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[Old Man]

How about just follow the instructions in the owner's manual?

 

[norwichnickwilson]

How about just follow the instructions in the owner's manual?

They’re simply asking a question.
isn’t this literally the exact place one should ask a question about their Maverick without getting attitude?

 

[IHateSpeedbumps]

I used tow mode when I was hauling a bunch of dirt in the bed. It used regenerative braking it felt a little more than eco and it never ran in full electric.
Still got better mileage than I thought hauling a yard or more of dirt.

 

[The Real Maverick]

Tow mode in a Hybrid does a few things:

Engine is on any time the wheels are turning but will shut off at stoplights.

Engine will run at slightly higher RPM, simulating a "lower gear" without changing actual gears. My estimate is about 300 RPM boost on average in all conditions.

It will use the HV battery pack a little LESS and will keep it a little bit HIGHER charged than normal. It really saves the battery for those "exceptional" needs, like when you floor it to pass, or accelerate up a freeway on-ramp.

Because the battery will tend to be held at a higher charge, you'll have slighly less room to regenerate when slowing. It will regenerate more strongly than usual, but for a shorter period than usual. But see next point below.*

*This mode will evoke "engine braking" sooner and more often. Probably on every downhill that requires you to tap the brakes, and on every freeway off-ramp that requires you to tap the brakes. It will, as always, use friction pads for braking only when necessary.
Engine braking may be stronger in this mode than others. You can get engine braking automatically if you ride the brakes too long in any mode.

Engine braking is loud and a but unnerving the first time you hear it. But it's ok, and it is designed to do that. The engine will spin 2500 to 4000 rpm without fuel, acting as an air compressor. This cools the engine actually. On a hill longer than a mile or two you can see the temperature gauge go down.

In tow haul you get more of a "locomotive" mode. You will get electric assist but not from the battery. The gas engine will run at that higher rpm I was telling you about above, the net energy from the higher RPM spins the generator, which makes power that is sent to the traction motor that helps the wheels turn. I said earlier your battery will generally be kept full in tow/haul mode, held in reserve for those exceptional cases.

I have a ScanGauge III.

My battery stays as cool as ambient in Tow/Haul without any cooling assistance because it isn't being used much at all.

The gas engine stays cool. Normal to within +20°F when towing and hauling a lot because the gas engine is not being worked overly hard either.

What works harder and heats up the most in tow/haul mode is the generator because it is almost constantly generating. While I never got an alarms or warning lights in 6,000 miles of towing, generator runs about 100°F more than normal while towing.

After so many miles, I now consider the generator the weakest link. It is going to overheat before any other component and is going to be the first thing to trigger a warning light or message, but I've never reached that point.

While you need an aftermarket OBDII reader to see the generator temperature, and there is no temperature gauge for this component in the stock truck, you'll get a warning message such as "high temperature" and/or "power reduced" and the truck will warn you in some matter to "slow down". If not acted upon, it will force you to stop before permanent damage occurs.

Rule of thumb, posted in many other threads: don't keep the power needle sustained over 50% and nothing will overheat.

 

[The Real Maverick]

I forgot to say:

"L" or pretend low mode is ONLY for slowing down. It does not do anything useful for you when trying to go forward or uphill.

I did not find L helpful in 6,000 miles of experimenting while towing. Did nothing for going uphill. I did not need it for going downhill. My trailer was tall and was like a parachute when doing downhill.

If you had dirt or bricks in the bed without additional aero drag, you might benefit from pressing L going downhill.

 

[Panther City Outdoors]

If I'm on level-ish ground, I'll use normal to get the best mpg. However, if its hilly, I switch to Tow, for the throttle response.

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