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JSanchez

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I tried locking the truck with the tailgate open but still had power at the back!

The power inside shuts down way sooner than the power in the bed after you pull out the key.
Great to know! I’m going to try and add a 12V cig outlet in the back later on. That’s where my 12V fridge will live on camping trips.
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19mustang65

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Anyone know what you can use on the outlets?
Charge power tool batteries, run a corded saw, air compressor, welder etc?
 

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Anyone know what you can use on the outlets?
Charge power tool batteries, run a corded saw, air compressor, welder etc?
From the manual:
Note: Your vehicle has a battery saver feature that shuts your vehicle off when it detects a certain amount of battery drain, or after approximately 30 minutes of inactivity in accessory mode.

Also:
When you switch the vehicle on, you can use the socket to power 12 V appliances with a maximum current rating of 15 A. Do not use the power point over the vehicle capacity of 12 V DC 180 W or a fuse could blow.

My understanding of this is that the vehicle will power down after its sensors read a certain level of battery drain. Longer or shorter times are dependent on how much draw.

That also means NO to the welder. :cry: Probably same for leaving a frig plugged in overnight on camping trips.
 

19mustang65

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Gotcha. Thanks for the info. Havent had a chance to get into the manual.
 

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I left my dashcam in the front 12v socket. It stayed on for 3 and half hours. I’m afraid to keep it connected all the time thinking it might ruin my battery.
Any way to change the timer on the 12v, my focus used to be 15 mins so it wasn’t a big of a deal.
 

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When I have a power bank charging from the 12v accessory wiring in the bed of my eco boost it pulls 100w with the engine running. Once the engine is shut off it throttles back to around 8w for 90mins exactly.

So in addition to the 90mins off, it limits total draw to very low energy consumption devices like lighting or something similar.
 

Maverickman74

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When I have a power bank charging from the 12v accessory wiring in the bed of my eco boost it pulls 100w with the engine running. Once the engine is shut off it throttles back to around 8w for 90mins exactly.

So in addition to the 90mins off, it limits total draw to very low energy consumption devices like lighting or something similar.
That 8w could be variable. It runs my fridge and continues to cool it. It's a cheapo Amazon fridge almost 6 years old so it can't be that efficient.
 

Andrew1966

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That 8w could be variable. It runs my fridge and continues to cool it. It's a cheapo Amazon fridge almost 6 years old so it can't be that efficient.
Interesting concept.

I’ll try plugging my fridge directly into 12v and see what happens. I’ve just been using a 300wh power brick to be a go between engine stopped and starts. My fridge uses around 40w when running and can keep my fridge sub freezing for around 12hours depending on outside temp.

It charges in 1-2 hours when engine is running depending how depleted it is.
 

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Interesting concept.

I’ll try plugging my fridge directly into 12v and see what happens. I’ve just been using a 300wh power brick to be a go between engine stopped and starts. My fridge uses around 40w when running and can keep my fridge sub freezing for around 12hours depending on outside temp.

It charges in 1-2 hours when engine is running depending how depleted it is.
Nice setup! Mine is just cruising, my wife said it stayed cold at lunch time today. I think with a ice pack in there it will stay cold all day for drinks and lunch stuff. Eventually I am gonna do a small lightweight solar panel on the roof of the topper and hide a battery in the fender. Maybe graft a inverter to the back of the bed cubby too. Then I will be set. Even better if I have a automatic 12v to 12v charger(or maybe just a resistor or some dodad like that) plumbed in between the 12v leads and the battery.
 
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I installed an ARE cap with lights that come on when the hatch is open. It’s so frustrating that the power times out. If I walk out at night to grab something out of the back I have to cycle the key. I’m going to re wire it constant. Defeats the purpose in my case.
 

EONR24

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I installed an ARE cap with lights that come on when the hatch is open. It’s so frustrating that the power times out. If I walk out at night to grab something out of the back I have to cycle the key. I’m going to re wire it constant. Defeats the purpose in my case.
look into wiring it based on the Ford Lumen Touchlink bed lights Install. That's what I did for my bed lights. So the Connector you need to look for is the middle connector in the passenger side footwell. Basically, you can wire lights to turn on or off with cargo lights by piggy backing off of the wire on PIN 7 OR there is an open pin (UNUSED) with 12v always going to it which is PIN 69. If you use PIN 69 I would recommend wiring in an inline switch.
 

EONR24

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I installed an ARE cap with lights that come on when the hatch is open. It’s so frustrating that the power times out. If I walk out at night to grab something out of the back I have to cycle the key. I’m going to re wire it constant. Defeats the purpose in my case.
I can link you some pictures and info to make it more helpful. I ran into the same problem as you
 

ElectricCity8

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Tha
look into wiring it based on the Ford Lumen Touchlink bed lights Install. That's what I did for my bed lights. So the Connector you need to look for is the middle connector in the passenger side footwell. Basically, you can wire lights to turn on or off with cargo lights by piggy backing off of the wire on PIN 7 OR there is an open pin (UNUSED) with 12v always going to it which is PIN 69. If you use PIN 69 I would recommend wiring in an inline switch.
Thanks I’ll check it out. I was gunna see if the switch led light next to the inverter was powered constant. If that’s the case I could rob 12volts there. It’s only powering two let strips
 
 







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