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Seeking part # for FX4 skid plate

Montana

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I have not found the part. Seems like it's not available.
Yea sorry, I can't seem to find it either. Next oil change I'll try to get under and check if it has a part number and maybe we can find one on ebay for you. I wrote it down and stuck it on a sticky in the garage next to my oil ;)
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Guv

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Thanks for the part numbers. I have to get some of the "nuts", part number W718770S439, because one was bent and would not hold the screw. I tried to bend it back and it broke instantly.

Ordering 2 sets and some extra screws, W702413S450B, just in case.

$33 total for 2 sets of 4 crappy "nuts" and an extra set of screws with the washers built in. I'm sure you can find M5x20mm (at least that's what FORD says they are) screws elsewhere and just add a washer, but whatever.

They should have built the damn threads into the skid plate where they meet with actual bolts and added a removable section for the filter location. My TRD one on the previous Tacoma I had was perfect and I never even had to remove it after initially installing it. One bolt for the filter section and one for the drain valve. Threads built into the plate itself, two bolts, remove two small areas, done. No way these "nuts" are going to last in MT winters if they don't even make it 13k. I guess my only hope is to coat them heavily in anti seize and stock up on backups for now.

Where there is a will there is a way but I haven't figured anything else out yet to replace them and still be able to remove just the rear part without straight up welding nuts in place - which I just might do lol.

The part numbers in this post are links directly to FORD parts to anyone who needs them. If you register, shipping is free or you can have them send to your local services dept. and just pick them up.

@bgn, did you ever find the plastic part you need? Here is a link to some of the diagrams on the entire setup but I didn't see that part specifically. I can dig further if you need, just on mobile currently in a hotel (Spokane) so it's a bit tasking and not as easy as searching on my PC. This post was kind of a PITA to pair links.
Are you using a power tool without a clutch? How does having the nuts permanently attached to the skid plate work, were you attaching one skid plate to another?
 

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Are you using a power tool without a clutch? How does having the nuts permanently attached to the skid plate work, were you attaching one skid plate to another?
The skid plate is two part. If you look at those parts you will see they are not "nuts" at all. The way it should work is you remove the rear part and you can leave the front part on. This allows you to loosen the bolts without the skid plate dropping then slid off via the "hook" that goes into the front part. The rear two actual bolts that go into the frame can be loosened but not removed because the skid plate is notched to allow you to slide back just enough to drop the front with that hook that slides in and out. This way, you are not having to hold the entire thing up while you are underneath it and removing bolts. Since those "nuts" are so cheap and break, it doesn't matter if it's a power tool or not. They are flimsy and rust easily, and as soon as one gets bent the wrong way which is likely after removing/replacing multiple times, they are useless. It's like trying to re-use cheap plastic dry wall screws. Sometimes they may work, most times they are garbage.

I get what you are saying, but no, it's not me torqueing an impact to it's max state lol. Since mine is also previously owned and likely serviced by the dealer, the chances of them doing it were high. Either way, those parts are garbage.
 
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Guv

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The skid plate is two part. If you look at those parts you will see they are not "nuts" at all. The way it should work is you remove the rear part and you can leave the front part on. This allows you to loosen the bolts without the skid plate dropping then slid off via the "hook" that goes into the front part. The rear two actual bolts that go into the frame can be loosened but not removed because the skid plate is notched to allow you to slide back just enough to drop the front with that hook that slides in and out. This way, you are not having to hold the entire thing up while you are underneath it and removing bolts. Since those "nuts" are so cheap and break, it doesn't matter if it's a power tool or not. They are flimsy and rust easily, and as soon as one gets bent the wrong way which is likely after removing/replacing multiple times, they are useless. It's like trying to re-use cheap plastic dry wall screws. Sometimes they may work, most times they are garbage.

I get what you are saying, but no, it's not me torqueing an impact to it's max state lol. Since mine is also previously owned and likely serviced by the dealer, the chances of them doing it were high. Either way, those parts are garbage.
I have an FX4 and change my own oil.
I have taken both off completely, slide the rear one onto a piece of cardboard.
You can bet, who ever changed oil on it before most likely went to town with a small impact or nut driver.
I had a 2006 GTO that had one hell of a stout skid plate. Much better than anything else I have ever had and it used 4 6M bolts threaded into the subframe. Never know when a rogue wallaby or wombat might get in the way of a speeding hoon.
I agree, Ford could have done better, especially since it was a added option $$$.
 

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My mistake. I reentered them
All good

PS: The $500 shocked me
 
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Would anyone be able to post the PN for this front cover? (And yes, I realize it’s non-Tremor 😀). Thank you in advance.
6EC37318-55BE-497A-A8BE-3FC1AD2CD847.jpeg
 

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Thanks for the part numbers. I have to get some of the "nuts", part number W718770S439, because one was bent and would not hold the screw. I tried to bend it back and it broke instantly.

Ordering 2 sets and some extra screws, W702413S450B, just in case.

$33 total for 2 sets of 4 crappy "nuts" and an extra set of screws with the washers built in. I'm sure you can find M5x20mm (at least that's what FORD says they are) screws elsewhere and just add a washer, but whatever.

They should have built the damn threads into the skid plate where they meet with actual bolts and added a removable section for the filter location. My TRD one on the previous Tacoma I had was perfect and I never even had to remove it after initially installing it. One bolt for the filter section and one for the drain valve. Threads built into the plate itself, two bolts, remove two small areas, done. No way these "nuts" are going to last in MT winters if they don't even make it 13k. I guess my only hope is to coat them heavily in anti seize and stock up on backups for now.

Where there is a will there is a way but I haven't figured anything else out yet to replace them and still be able to remove just the rear part without straight up welding nuts in place - which I just might do lol.

The part numbers in this post are links directly to FORD parts to anyone who needs them. If you register, shipping is free or you can have them send to your local services dept. and just pick them up.

@bgn, did you ever find the plastic part you need? Here is a link to some of the diagrams on the entire setup but I didn't see that part specifically. I can dig further if you need, just on mobile currently in a hotel (Spokane) so it's a bit tasking and not as easy as searching on my PC. This post was kind of a PITA to pair links.

Are these the nuts for the T30 bolts that hold the two pieces of the metal shield together?
 
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Are these the nuts for the T30 bolts that hold the two pieces of the metal shield together?
yep that's them!


Would anyone be able to post the PN for this front cover? (And yes, I realize it’s non-Tremor 😀). Thank you in advance.
6EC37318-55BE-497A-A8BE-3FC1AD2CD847.jpeg
I'm assuming it's NZ6Z-5D032-A because that part is $80 and the other part NZ6Z-5D032-B is just over $500.
 

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yep that's them!
Thank you sir! Stripped one of mine just hand-tightening it after my first oil change. What a horribly cheap design!
 

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Thank you sir! Stripped one of mine just hand-tightening it after my first oil change. What a horribly cheap design!
Agreed. I bought mine used and 2 were broken - probably from a dealership oil change. Even re-installing the new ones myself and being very careful, I suspect these will require replacements far more than they should. Especially considering I live in MT so they will rust. I can't imagine them holding up very well in areas where they use chemicals and salt on the roads.
 

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Agreed. I bought mine used and 2 were broken - probably from a dealership oil change. Even re-installing the new ones myself and being very careful, I suspect these will require replacements far more than they should. Especially considering I live in MT so they will rust. I can't imagine them holding up very well in areas where they use chemicals and salt on the roads.
I’m in NY, so I’m all too familiar with salt. I do oil spray everything, that may help.
 

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Agreed. I bought mine used and 2 were broken - probably from a dealership oil change. Even re-installing the new ones myself and being very careful, I suspect these will require replacements far more than they should. Especially considering I live in MT so they will rust. I can't imagine them holding up very well in areas where they use chemicals and salt on the roads.
Looked at all my FX4 skid plates hardware for the first time after 16k miles and 3 dealer oil changes- A hot mess of bolts barely aligning and such- Yeah pretty lame design and hardware- Also my air scoop is trashed like @ BGN - Seems like that is not offered as a separate item- Ugh
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