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Rock chip / Paint chip repair?

OleFordGuy

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Dang that must have been decent size rock, ashamed it didn’t hit the windshield that be easy fix
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Edge Haley

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That's definitely too deep and compact to "pop" back out or do paintless dent removal. If it were me, I'd clean up the spot, put some Bondo in it, then go thru the primer-paint-clear process. Unfortunate to have to do that to such a new car. I'm sure a body shop would probably do the same thing.
Glad you said it first...about Bondo. I repair and do a lot of body work on classic Porsches and it is no sin to use Bondo. First I'd get rust out of the way Immediately with rust preventive primer. Rustoleum works. Then I'd look for a small local body shop's opinion...or two...and just ask if they'd use Bondo? Car manufacturers of new cars use "filler" to blend seems of sheet metal, and it's just a fancy word for Bondo.

The biggest hurdle for most paint booths shops is covering the body area where it is not getting painted to keep off over spray, dry then clear coat. Putting it back to straighten metal would probably be cost prohibitive and probably require removal of windshield and it's camera.

The Maverick is very thin sheet metal in 5,000 miles I've already collected two significant door dings. Buying the $25+ touch up paint would not be enough to cover this wound...probably take a pint of paint.

Might be worth talking to a FORD body shop to see if the entire strip around the door back to the bed could be removed and replaced...it's possible depending how it is attached to the body.

Edit: Looking closer and blowing up the jpg. I'd get opinions but probably Bondo it myself (it is not hard at all; most of work is a little sanding off excess), and have a Paint Shop paint it for you...most paint shops can't afford to clean up their gear and tape off a job for less than a few hundred. Jobs like this are almost always best to look for the 1 or 2 man shops. Small body shops have much less overhead
 
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Sembazuru

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Yes, I agree. I'm getting a few quotes next week. Thanks
Especially if you plan on making a claim with your insurance, you might want to get them involved. Many insurance companies have pre-vetted body and repair shops that are easier to get them to cover the cost for. If I were you, I'd ask them if they have a preferred shop and/or if they want their own adjuster to review the damage before the repair.
 

Joe Kelly

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In the recent past I find the rates at local body shops and the dealer are pretty close. The insurance companies drive the rates. I have a 73 Triumph and I needed to replace the hood due to rust. I look around to find a reasonable price and all the shops were close in price. This is where I found out the insurance companies set the rates. Mine was not a insurance job but the shops would not move off their published rates with the insurance companies therefore you may as well go to the dealer in my opinion. You may say I am crazy but I have all my work done at the dealer. This has paid off. For me because my 2009 accord needed to have the engine overhauld twice under 100,000 miles. The first thing they looked at was my service record and it was in there system. I was in Atlanta on two days before Christmas. My sister in law was in the hospital in critical condition. The dealer gave me a free rental car so I could get to Orlando. We were there for 3 weeks with the rental car. On our way home we stoped in Atlanta changed cars and went home. The service writer told me there was no questions ion if I failed to maintain the car. They had all the documentation at their finger tips. The repair rental car wad all no charge.





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shadow76

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Yeah, I hear that.

It is just me or does anyone else feel like the metal in thinner and softer than other vehicles? I probably just feel that way because of the extent of the rock damage. Lol
Body sheet metal is a lighter gauge than past vehicle generations to save on material costs.
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