- First Name
- Epi
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2022
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- 2
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- 17
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- 51
- Location
- Chicagoish
- Vehicle(s)
- 2023 XL AWD, 1967 Mustang
- Engine
- 2.0L EcoBoost
- Thread starter
- #1
I would like to address this growing problem with a quick emergency fix to get your window up!
This specific fix is for the RIGHT REAR window that will not go up. This applies to the XL and XLT models without auto down/up feature on the passenger windows (This will work for auto down on the driver's window only). Please read this entire post carefully before proceeding. I am trying to provide a service for those who have this issue and can't get to the dealer right away, i will not be liable for any damages that may occur. Use common sense and please follow the directions.
A bit about me : I am an ASE certified tech with 20 years experience. I own a '23 Maverick XL with 7K miles and this recently happened to me.
Problem: You roll your right rear window down and it either: went down all the way on it's own after touching the button OR you rolled it down and now won't go back up, particularly from the driver's switch.
From everything that I've read lately, the common problem is in the driver's window switch.
If you have an XL or XLT WITHOUT auto up/down feature on your PASSENGER windows-
Solution: jump the wires at the passenger rear switch.
You will need a plastic pry tool, and two 3" jumper wires (preferably 14 gauge)
First remove the RIGHT REAR window switch - you will need a plastic pry tool. I don't recommend any metal tools as it will indent the plastic however in a pinch it works as long as you're careful. Find the seam of the switch assembly that faces the rear of the vehicle
lift the back end up then slide rearward. The clip is very snug so it may take a bit of effort
notice the blue clip and black tongue to get an idea how it's held down (left side pictured)
unplug the green connector by pressing the tab with your thumb then pull outward
PLEASE READ THIS NEXT STEP CAREFULLY!!
Count the number of wires at the connector! if its 8, then proceed to the next step, if there are only 4, skip over to the auto down section.
MAKE SURE THE IGNITION KEY IS IN THE OFF POSITION! DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!
Identify the LARGER 4 wires. They will be in a row and in the following colors:
Yellow/Orange = 12v key on battery
Violet/White = window motor (positive up, negative down)
Gray = window motor (negative up, positive down)
Black/white = ground/negative
Those four wires are significantly larger than the other four. DO NOT use the smaller four wires. These colors only apply to the RIGHT REAR window.
Jump the Yellow/Orange to the Violet/white, and jump the Gray to the Black/White
Use the terminal side, I found it's easiest that way.
I do not recommend paper clips but if you are in a pinch, make sure they do NOT touch
Once you have made the connection, go to the driver's seat, LEAVE THE DRIVER DOOR OPEN, then turn forward the key (do not start), the window should go up. Once it's fully up, shut the vehicle down.
Undo the wires. DO NOT plug in your window switch, leave it off OR reinstall it WITHOUT plugging it in. DONE!
In the event that this procedure did NOT work, check power with a test light at the yellow/orange wire with the ignition key ON. If no power is present with the key on, further diagnosis will be necessary that I will not cover on this post.
AUTO DOWN/UP GUYS!
Unfortunately after testing the "quick fix" which was disconnecting the master switch, it appears that it will not work. The auto down/up system uses two door modules that are all interconnected through data lines, versus the auto down driver only system which is more like an older vehicle and is directly wired to the window motors. These modules are what control the operation of the windows and this was done to prevent "crushing" with the auto up function. I will look into another way around this.
I will update this once I figure out a solution for you guys.
If you want to roll the dice and replace the master switch if your Mav is out of warranty, i will leave the instructions up on how to remove the master switch.
Make sure ignition switch is OFF
Pry up and remove the Driver's window switch by inserting the pry tool at the seam facing rearward
it will take some effort as the clips are tight. Lift the backside then slide rearward.
Once removed, unplug the main connectors and remove the switch.
the switch may not come with a bezel, there are small tabs along the body of the switch panel itself you will need to pry to get the switch out of the bezel.
Please comment with your model and window type (Auto down driver's only OR Auto down/up all windows) if this issue has happened to you and if you had it fixed, what the ultimate solution was. I hope this all helps!!
This specific fix is for the RIGHT REAR window that will not go up. This applies to the XL and XLT models without auto down/up feature on the passenger windows (This will work for auto down on the driver's window only). Please read this entire post carefully before proceeding. I am trying to provide a service for those who have this issue and can't get to the dealer right away, i will not be liable for any damages that may occur. Use common sense and please follow the directions.
A bit about me : I am an ASE certified tech with 20 years experience. I own a '23 Maverick XL with 7K miles and this recently happened to me.
Problem: You roll your right rear window down and it either: went down all the way on it's own after touching the button OR you rolled it down and now won't go back up, particularly from the driver's switch.
From everything that I've read lately, the common problem is in the driver's window switch.
If you have an XL or XLT WITHOUT auto up/down feature on your PASSENGER windows-
Solution: jump the wires at the passenger rear switch.
You will need a plastic pry tool, and two 3" jumper wires (preferably 14 gauge)
First remove the RIGHT REAR window switch - you will need a plastic pry tool. I don't recommend any metal tools as it will indent the plastic however in a pinch it works as long as you're careful. Find the seam of the switch assembly that faces the rear of the vehicle
lift the back end up then slide rearward. The clip is very snug so it may take a bit of effort
notice the blue clip and black tongue to get an idea how it's held down (left side pictured)
unplug the green connector by pressing the tab with your thumb then pull outward
PLEASE READ THIS NEXT STEP CAREFULLY!!
Count the number of wires at the connector! if its 8, then proceed to the next step, if there are only 4, skip over to the auto down section.
MAKE SURE THE IGNITION KEY IS IN THE OFF POSITION! DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!
Identify the LARGER 4 wires. They will be in a row and in the following colors:
Yellow/Orange = 12v key on battery
Violet/White = window motor (positive up, negative down)
Gray = window motor (negative up, positive down)
Black/white = ground/negative
Those four wires are significantly larger than the other four. DO NOT use the smaller four wires. These colors only apply to the RIGHT REAR window.
Jump the Yellow/Orange to the Violet/white, and jump the Gray to the Black/White
Use the terminal side, I found it's easiest that way.
I do not recommend paper clips but if you are in a pinch, make sure they do NOT touch
Once you have made the connection, go to the driver's seat, LEAVE THE DRIVER DOOR OPEN, then turn forward the key (do not start), the window should go up. Once it's fully up, shut the vehicle down.
Undo the wires. DO NOT plug in your window switch, leave it off OR reinstall it WITHOUT plugging it in. DONE!
In the event that this procedure did NOT work, check power with a test light at the yellow/orange wire with the ignition key ON. If no power is present with the key on, further diagnosis will be necessary that I will not cover on this post.
AUTO DOWN/UP GUYS!
Unfortunately after testing the "quick fix" which was disconnecting the master switch, it appears that it will not work. The auto down/up system uses two door modules that are all interconnected through data lines, versus the auto down driver only system which is more like an older vehicle and is directly wired to the window motors. These modules are what control the operation of the windows and this was done to prevent "crushing" with the auto up function. I will look into another way around this.
I will update this once I figure out a solution for you guys.
If you want to roll the dice and replace the master switch if your Mav is out of warranty, i will leave the instructions up on how to remove the master switch.
Make sure ignition switch is OFF
Pry up and remove the Driver's window switch by inserting the pry tool at the seam facing rearward
it will take some effort as the clips are tight. Lift the backside then slide rearward.
Once removed, unplug the main connectors and remove the switch.
the switch may not come with a bezel, there are small tabs along the body of the switch panel itself you will need to pry to get the switch out of the bezel.
Please comment with your model and window type (Auto down driver's only OR Auto down/up all windows) if this issue has happened to you and if you had it fixed, what the ultimate solution was. I hope this all helps!!
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