Released: 1.5” and 2.0” lift kits for Maverick AWD by Fordrangerlifts

[CLH917]

Anybody remember the nut-swingers who were dead-ass arguing over the tire size on this Raptor photoshop?

Seems pretty comical now considering somebody was trying to say you'd need 35s to match the photoshop look IRL

Robby's clearly looks like it has WAYYYY more tire and those are only 32s.. That Raptor photoshop is probably a good look at stock tire size but with this 2" lift.

Hey I was involved in that and said 33’s. Off by an inch, story of my life

Sponsored

 

[GaMaverick]

https://fordrangerlifts.com/shop/ols/products/xn-2022-2023-maverick-awd-2-lift-kit-yi5u

And the time is now. Ordered mine this morning!

$525.00 for 2" lift kit for Maverick AWD

Just ordered mine. Saw the post on Facebook. I dont even have my Maverick yet, it’s in transit

 

[GaMaverick]

Most of the complaints were associated with one particular lift, Rough Country. This kit is substantially more robust than a RC kit.

I read the same exact thing about rough country and fordrangerlifts was considered the best.

 

[notfast]

I really want to raise the height of my FX4 Maverick (2-3"). I have never done a lift on a vehicle

I'm a former suspension, steering, and brakes technician. Disclaimer: been out of it for several years, so what I know might not be entirely relevant.

how does this affect handling?

You'll probably get increased body roll, and potential wheel alignment issues.

With a strut spacer lift (which is what the front lift is, according to the product description), you're changing the position in the suspension cycle at which the suspension is when it's at ride height.

Changing that will likely result in negative toe, negative caster, and negative camber.

Negative toe results in accelerated tire wear. Fortunately, most vehicles have a wide toe adjustment. Caster and camber typically aren't adjustable as much, if at all. Most IFS vehicles have a bit of positive caster, since it helps with the ability of the vehicle to self-center and stay steady at high speeds.

The more negative caster the vehicle has, generally the more it will make the vehicle feel squirrely/twitchy at high speeds. And at low speeds, the steering won't return to center as quickly or at all.

Even if the Maverick can stay within the factory alignment specs, I wouldn't recommend being at one end of the range. It's a "range" for a reason; the best possible performance is in the middle of the range, while acceptable performance is at either end.

Does a lift affect suspension components?

Strut spacers can let you over-compress the shock absorbers, potentially leading to shorter life and/or damage. This can be mitigated by extending the bump stops, but then you effectively lost total suspension travel.

Rubber bushings in the suspension are torsional springs in their own right. A momentary twist when hitting a bump is fine. But forcing the suspension to rest in a different part of the cycle can lead to the bushings tearing and/or collapsing prematurely.

That can be mitigated by loosening the bolts through the bushings to "reset" them, but it depends on how much adjustment is possible, if any at all. Some vehicles have no adjustment due to the bushings being fully "captured" on one or both ends or being mounted perpendicular to the direction that the suspension cycles. Other vehicles have infinite adjustment.

Does a lift affect your warranty?

It's a gray area. If you come in with your lifted Maverick on 32s and say that you hear a clicking/popping noise at low speeds, or you have a weird clunk sound when hitting bumps, or you have some U-joint issues, your warranty claim will probably get denied.

But if your power windows stopped working, you'll probably be able to get that repaired under warranty.

The gray area starts when your issues are not directly related, but could be. For example, and I'm being completely hypothetical, say that your lift and larger tires are now causing the electric power steering system to work harder. That additional load is causing a higher-than-anticipated momentary voltage drop. The voltage drop is causing no other problems except the radio occasionally restarts while turning in a parking lot.

Legally, it's the dealer's responsibility to prove that your modifications caused the problem. But realistically, most dealers will probably tell you to pound sand or wait for you to threaten or perform legal action.

how soon are we talking? Does it decrease the life by like 20%, 50% , etc.

It's hard to put a numeric value on it, but it will definitely be less. It's sort of like saying, how soon will you need new suspension parts after driving on "X" city's crappy roads?

It also depends on how often you go off road, how good the roads are when you aren't off road, how worn the suspension and driveline was when you put the lift on, etc. You could be lucky and never experience an issue. Or you could get clicking/popping/growling CV axles as you leave the driveway of the suspension installer.

It's been a while since I took the driveline course, but I think most CV axles have a design limit of around 23 degrees, and not exceeding 20 degrees was a good rule-of-thumb.

If the lifted Maverick's CV axle angles are within the acceptable range throughout the suspension cycle, I'd say they'll last the life of the vehicle.

Can’t honestly say because everyone’s usage is unique. Whenever you change your vehicle from its intended and engineered design parameters, you make a compromise on reliability and performance.

I agree 110%. Everything is a compromise. If you are willing to live with the compromises and the benefits outweigh the negatives to you, then by all means, go for it.

Like, I have mud tires on my otherwise stock Nissan Frontier 4x4. They hum loud enough that it sounds like I have 4 bad wheel bearings, and I lost about 10% of the fuel economy. But it sure beats popping a highway tire every time I venture off the pavement.

The vast majority of those reports stemmed from the Rough Country lift. Robbie is a master at his craft and this kit (while being a little more expensive than the RC lift) is far more superior and all-encompassing.

I'm being genuinely serious here because there is always something to learn...how do you consider Robbie's kit more superior and all-encompassing?

Rough Country doesn't have a Maverick kit on their site, but they have a Bronco Sport kit that consists of, well, basically the same as Robbie's kit, which is why I'd like to hear your input.

Both kits consist of strut spacers and coil spring spacers. Robbie's has subframe drop spacers and trailing arm spacers while Rough Country's has trailing arm drop spacers.

To me, that's different methods to skin the same cat versus one being basic and one being all-encompassing.

 

[GaMaverick]

I'm a former suspension, steering, and brakes technician. Disclaimer: been out of it for several years, so what I know might not be entirely relevant.



You'll probably get increased body roll, and potential wheel alignment issues.

With a strut spacer lift (which is what the front lift is, according to the product description), you're changing the position in the suspension cycle at which the suspension is when it's at ride height.

Changing that will likely result in negative toe, negative caster, and negative camber.

Negative toe results in accelerated tire wear. Fortunately, most vehicles have a wide toe adjustment. Caster and camber typically aren't adjustable as much, if at all. Most IFS vehicles have a bit of positive caster, since it helps with the ability of the vehicle to self-center and stay steady at high speeds.

The more negative caster the vehicle has, generally the more it will make the vehicle feel squirrely/twitchy at high speeds. And at low speeds, the steering won't return to center as quickly or at all.

Even if the Maverick can stay within the factory alignment specs, I wouldn't recommend being at one end of the range. It's a "range" for a reason; the best possible performance is in the middle of the range, while acceptable performance is at either end.



Strut spacers can let you over-compress the shock absorbers, potentially leading to shorter life and/or damage. This can be mitigated by extending the bump stops, but then you effectively lost total suspension travel.

Rubber bushings in the suspension are torsional springs in their own right. A momentary twist when hitting a bump is fine. But forcing the suspension to rest in a different part of the cycle can lead to the bushings tearing and/or collapsing prematurely.

That can be mitigated by loosening the bolts through the bushings to "reset" them, but it depends on how much adjustment is possible, if any at all. Some vehicles have no adjustment due to the bushings being fully "captured" on one or both ends or being mounted perpendicular to the direction that the suspension cycles. Other vehicles have infinite adjustment.



It's a gray area. If you come in with your lifted Maverick on 32s and say that you hear a clicking/popping noise at low speeds, or you have a weird clunk sound when hitting bumps, or you have some U-joint issues, your warranty claim will probably get denied.

But if your power windows stopped working, you'll probably be able to get that repaired under warranty.

The gray area starts when your issues are not directly related, but could be. For example, and I'm being completely hypothetical, say that your lift and larger tires are now causing the electric power steering system to work harder. That additional load is causing a higher-than-anticipated momentary voltage drop. The voltage drop is causing no other problems except the radio occasionally restarts while turning in a parking lot.

Legally, it's the dealer's responsibility to prove that your modifications caused the problem. But realistically, most dealers will probably tell you to pound sand or wait for you to threaten or perform legal action.



It's hard to put a numeric value on it, but it will definitely be less. It's sort of like saying, how soon will you need new suspension parts after driving on "X" city's crappy roads?

It also depends on how often you go off road, how good the roads are when you aren't off road, how worn the suspension and driveline was when you put the lift on, etc. You could be lucky and never experience an issue. Or you could get clicking/popping/growling CV axles as you leave the driveway of the suspension installer.

It's been a while since I took the driveline course, but I think most CV axles have a design limit of around 23 degrees, and not exceeding 20 degrees was a good rule-of-thumb.

If the lifted Maverick's CV axle angles are within the acceptable range throughout the suspension cycle, I'd say they'll last the life of the vehicle.



I agree 110%. Everything is a compromise. If you are willing to live with the compromises and the benefits outweigh the negatives to you, then by all means, go for it.

Like, I have mud tires on my otherwise stock Nissan Frontier 4x4. They hum loud enough that it sounds like I have 4 bad wheel bearings, and I lost about 10% of the fuel economy. But it sure beats popping a highway tire every time I venture off the pavement.



I'm being genuinely serious here because there is always something to learn...how do you consider Robbie's kit more superior and all-encompassing?

Rough Country doesn't have a Maverick kit on their site, but they have a Bronco Sport kit that consists of, well, basically the same as Robbie's kit, which is why I'd like to hear your input.

Both kits consist of strut spacers and coil spring spacers. Robbie's has subframe drop spacers and trailing arm spacers while Rough Country's has trailing arm drop spacers.

To me, that's different methods to skin the same cat versus one being basic and one being all-encompassing.

All you got to do is go look up the reviews on Bronco Sport forums/pages of the different lifts available. Look up reviews of Rough Country and then Ford Ranger Lifts.

 

[Minimoto7]

I'm a former suspension, steering, and brakes technician. Disclaimer: been out of it for several years, so what I know might not be entirely relevant.



You'll probably get increased body roll, and potential wheel alignment issues.

With a strut spacer lift (which is what the front lift is, according to the product description), you're changing the position in the suspension cycle at which the suspension is when it's at ride height.

Changing that will likely result in negative toe, negative caster, and negative camber.

Negative toe results in accelerated tire wear. Fortunately, most vehicles have a wide toe adjustment. Caster and camber typically aren't adjustable as much, if at all. Most IFS vehicles have a bit of positive caster, since it helps with the ability of the vehicle to self-center and stay steady at high speeds.

The more negative caster the vehicle has, generally the more it will make the vehicle feel squirrely/twitchy at high speeds. And at low speeds, the steering won't return to center as quickly or at all.

Even if the Maverick can stay within the factory alignment specs, I wouldn't recommend being at one end of the range. It's a "range" for a reason; the best possible performance is in the middle of the range, while acceptable performance is at either end.



Strut spacers can let you over-compress the shock absorbers, potentially leading to shorter life and/or damage. This can be mitigated by extending the bump stops, but then you effectively lost total suspension travel.

Rubber bushings in the suspension are torsional springs in their own right. A momentary twist when hitting a bump is fine. But forcing the suspension to rest in a different part of the cycle can lead to the bushings tearing and/or collapsing prematurely.

That can be mitigated by loosening the bolts through the bushings to "reset" them, but it depends on how much adjustment is possible, if any at all. Some vehicles have no adjustment due to the bushings being fully "captured" on one or both ends or being mounted perpendicular to the direction that the suspension cycles. Other vehicles have infinite adjustment.



It's a gray area. If you come in with your lifted Maverick on 32s and say that you hear a clicking/popping noise at low speeds, or you have a weird clunk sound when hitting bumps, or you have some U-joint issues, your warranty claim will probably get denied.

But if your power windows stopped working, you'll probably be able to get that repaired under warranty.

The gray area starts when your issues are not directly related, but could be. For example, and I'm being completely hypothetical, say that your lift and larger tires are now causing the electric power steering system to work harder. That additional load is causing a higher-than-anticipated momentary voltage drop. The voltage drop is causing no other problems except the radio occasionally restarts while turning in a parking lot.

Legally, it's the dealer's responsibility to prove that your modifications caused the problem. But realistically, most dealers will probably tell you to pound sand or wait for you to threaten or perform legal action.



It's hard to put a numeric value on it, but it will definitely be less. It's sort of like saying, how soon will you need new suspension parts after driving on "X" city's crappy roads?

It also depends on how often you go off road, how good the roads are when you aren't off road, how worn the suspension and driveline was when you put the lift on, etc. You could be lucky and never experience an issue. Or you could get clicking/popping/growling CV axles as you leave the driveway of the suspension installer.

It's been a while since I took the driveline course, but I think most CV axles have a design limit of around 23 degrees, and not exceeding 20 degrees was a good rule-of-thumb.

If the lifted Maverick's CV axle angles are within the acceptable range throughout the suspension cycle, I'd say they'll last the life of the vehicle.



I agree 110%. Everything is a compromise. If you are willing to live with the compromises and the benefits outweigh the negatives to you, then by all means, go for it.

Like, I have mud tires on my otherwise stock Nissan Frontier 4x4. They hum loud enough that it sounds like I have 4 bad wheel bearings, and I lost about 10% of the fuel economy. But it sure beats popping a highway tire every time I venture off the pavement.



I'm being genuinely serious here because there is always something to learn...how do you consider Robbie's kit more superior and all-encompassing?

Rough Country doesn't have a Maverick kit on their site, but they have a Bronco Sport kit that consists of, well, basically the same as Robbie's kit, which is why I'd like to hear your input.

Both kits consist of strut spacers and coil spring spacers. Robbie's has subframe drop spacers and trailing arm spacers while Rough Country's has trailing arm drop spacers.

To me, that's different methods to skin the same cat versus one being basic and one being all-encompassing.

Thank you for taking the time to write this.
Very helpful information!

 

[ZipperKid]

Ordered my kit! Hopefully I receive it when I get my maverick at the end of next month!

 

[kmartinkc]

Coming from someone who has zero mechanical knowledge (which is a shame because my father is a mechanic) and without the tools to perform my own work, how would I go about getting these lift kits installed if I ordered one? Could I call around and find a local shop that will provide the labor to install the kit that I provide?

Also, any idea what the labor cost would be?

 

[GaMaverick]

Coming from someone who has zero mechanical knowledge (which is a shame because my father is a mechanic) and without the tools to perform my own work, how would I go about getting these lift kits installed if I ordered one? Could I call around and find a local shop that will provide the labor to install the kit that I provide?

Also, any idea what the labor cost would be?

Call a shop that specializes in the 4 x4 stuff.

Ranger lift kits does have a instruction video on YouTube for the Bronco Sport lift install I watched. It should be almost exactly the same if not the same for the Maverick awd.

 

[notfast]

Could I call around and find a local shop that will provide the labor to install the kit that I provide?

Absolutely. You might have to call around to a couple shops though. Some shops don't install parts that they don't sell.

Also, any idea what the labor cost would be?

Rough Country's Bronco Sport lift says 3-4 hours. I can't imagine the Maverick being that much different. So 4 hours at whatever the shop rate is ($100-150/hr seems to be the going rate).

 

[JSanchez]

Updated 10/25:

2" lift kit is now released: https://fordrangerlifts.com/shop/ols/products/xn-2022-2023-maverick-awd-2-lift-kit-yi5u

$525.00 for 2" lift kit for Maverick AWD

Tires in photos are: 255/75R17

Original post August 23

I reached out to one of the manufacturers of the lift kits for the Bronco Sport to see if he would be making lift kits for the Maverick. He responded with a email he plans to make both 1.5” and 2.0” lift kits. This manufacturer also has a comprehensive how to video for installing his lift kit on a Bronco Sport, which should be identical to the Maverick 2.0 awd/FX4 suspension.

Any idea if this can be done with 1.5" in the front and 2" in the rear?

 

[TE37Mav]

Any idea if this can be done with 1.5" in the front and 2" in the rear?

The rear is already higher then the front why would you want it higher?

 

[Darksider]

Could you add picture of how far the tires sit outside of the wheel well. Its hard to see from an angle. Thanks.

 

[JSanchez]

The rear is already higher then the front why would you want it higher?

I like the look, so If I were to hypothetically lift a vehicle, I would want to keep the angled look. Especially since I dislike/despise leveled/squatting trucks.

 

[Zxdiac]

I like the look, so If I were to hypothetically lift a vehicle, I would want to keep the angled look. Especially since I dislike/despise leveled/squatting trucks.

If the front is half an inch lower than the back stock, and the lift kit lifts both front and back 2 inches equally, that means the front is still half an inch lower.

Sponsored