****REGARDING DEAD HYBRID MAVERICKS ISSUE****

[skinnyboy]

Yes that cable that is bolted down under. That black cover looks in good shape. If it reads 0 volts what would you suggest

If it reads less than what your 12v battery shows across its terminals then the most likely culprit is the crimped/soldered connection on the end of the positive battery cable under the cover. It would probable be a good idea to give that connection a wiggle while checking the voltage to see if it changes. Checking that connection (since it is a known issue) could point to it being the problem rather than a module.

Cheers.

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[lkshrum94]

Hello everyone another dead Maverick here. I received my Maverick hybrid xlt at the beginning of January. Only 5000 miles on it so far. Went out to start it the other day and no power whatsoever. So I jumped it and drove it for a hour then turn the key off and back to absolutely no power. Realized the only way I could turn it on was to jump power to it and turn the key on. 12v and hybrid battery were good and charged. Got a check engine light for P068a(Deenergized too early). I don’t have the solder connection at the front I have the good cable with the bolt. I wiggled the main $700 power wire in different locations and still nothing. I’m wondering if I have a bad module preventing power to the ecm. Called 3 ford dealers and all are overwhelmed and can’t look at it for weeks. Would rather it not bake in the sun in the parking lot for weeks

Look, I'm not trying to be insulting... but you've got it all wrong. I wish everyone would stop putting so much emphasis on the "bolt" shown in these photos. That bolt is on every Maverick, everywhere. There is no "good cable with the bolt and bad cable with the solder." The bolt literally just holds your positive lug terminal in place. The connection in question is underneath all of the black shrink wrap, where the cable is soldered to the lug terminal. It's not visible without cutting back the shrink-wrap.

 

[lkshrum94]

ok - thanks for the update. I'll try and measure with my calipers this weekend if I have a chance and report back. Maybe 3/4" would work.

Curious how you know where to stick that u-bolt/rope clamp? You will have the cut away the shrink wrap to visualize the soldered connection.

 

[MAVRICK]

Look, I'm not trying to be insulting... but you've got it all wrong. I wish everyone would stop putting so much emphasis on the "bolt" shown in these photos. That bolt is on every Maverick, everywhere. There is no "good cable with the bolt and bad cable with the solder." The bolt literally just holds your positive lug terminal in place. The connection in question is underneath all of the black shrink wrap, where the cable is soldered to the lug terminal. It's not visible without cutting back the shrink-wrap.

From this thread: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ericks-reported-dealer-solutions-fixes.16862/

Provided just for reference - still unverified or sufficiently tested fix - just one (of a few) reported fixes ...

-------------- REPORT #3 [Dealer Warranty Service] ------------------

Thanks to: Facebook Post

FORD Dealer Technician Report:

-- Installed BP326 [Cable Lug]

Troubleshooting:

1) Performed Battery Test - PASS
2) Checked Fuses - PASS [All Good]
3) Inspected wires at the fuse box under the hood

FINDINGS: Found wire connector 1617a to have intermittent voltage when moving the wire. After pulling back the wrapped tape, found that where the wire was flat crimped and soldered, it was separating and causing a faulty connection.

REMOVED following for access:

1) Wrapped tape around wire connector 1617a

FIX -

REPLACED:

** Old eyelet plate with a 4-0 eyelet and re-taped the wire [P/N: Not provided]

FOLLOW UP/ VERIFICATION:

1) Road testing [Unknown verification]

 

[rjbaird91]

From this thread: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ericks-reported-dealer-solutions-fixes.16862/

Provided just for reference - still unverified or sufficiently tested fix - just one (of a few) reported fixes ...

-------------- REPORT #3 [Dealer Warranty Service] ------------------

Thanks to: Facebook Post

FORD Dealer Technician Report:

-- Installed BP326 [Cable Lug]

Troubleshooting:

1) Performed Battery Test - PASS
2) Checked Fuses - PASS [All Good]
3) Inspected wires at the fuse box under the hood

FINDINGS: Found wire connector 1617a to have intermittent voltage when moving the wire. After pulling back the wrapped tape, found that where the wire was flat crimped and soldered, it was separating and causing a faulty connection.

REMOVED following for access:

1) Wrapped tape around wire connector 1617a

FIX -

REPLACED:

** Old eyelet plate with a 4-0 eyelet and re-taped the wire [P/N: Not provided]

FOLLOW UP/ VERIFICATION:

1) Road testing [Unknown verification]

If it reads less than what your 12v battery shows across its terminals then the most likely culprit is the crimped/soldered connection on the end of the positive battery cable under the cover. It would probable be a good idea to give that connection a wiggle while checking the voltage to see if it changes. Checking that connection (since it is a known issue) could point to it being the problem rather than a module.

Cheers.

Ok thank you I’ll give it a shot tomorrow and give an update.

 

[rjbaird91]

Look, I'm not trying to be insulting... but you've got it all wrong. I wish everyone would stop putting so much emphasis on the "bolt" shown in these photos. That bolt is on every Maverick, everywhere. There is no "good cable with the bolt and bad cable with the solder." The bolt literally just holds your positive lug terminal in place. The connection in question is underneath all of the black shrink wrap, where the cable is soldered to the lug terminal. It's not visible without cutting back the shrink-wrap.

Ok good to know. I don’t want to cut the shrink wrap for the dealer to say I monkeyed with it and void the warranty. Would somehow clamping the shrink wrap tightly with something help diagnose it?

 

[Error]

Ok good to know. I don’t want to cut the shrink wrap for the dealer to say I monkeyed with it and void the warranty. Would somehow clamping the shrink wrap tightly with something help diagnose it?

i did not follow this thread for days, but last time i was reading this thread in its early development , we were all pointing at the solder at the shrinking wrap right before the bolt..

I bought a couple of small clamps that you can find anywhere, from amazon to homedepot.. if that happen to me i will just clamp the shrinking tube.. and hopefully it will make a better connection.

no , i do not plan to cut off the shrinking wrap either, i too don't want them to try to void my warranty and let them think they can runaway with this.

i had a coolant leak on my hybrid on day 1, they fixed it..
after the coolant was fixed and handed the key, i asked the senior tech to follow me outside where he parked my hybrid…. then i opened the hood and pointed at the harness for him to see.. i asked him if i could clamp here in case i lose connection to the batt,. He said sure, that wouldn't be a bad idea if that ever happen.. but he also added that the disconnection i was referring to doesn't happen on every vehicle and not to worry too much about it.
But at the same time its a new vehicle and we are all learning about it,

 

[Mach 1]

Rj, i would recomend if it doesnt start, push the battery cable at the fuse box, which should make a different connection, cause if you tug on it, it may come out of the insulation.(which might be a good thing as well cause you would know for sure whats wrong).

Guys who are thinking of using a metallic clamp, be careful with it, if the clamp due to clamping force pierces the insulation(heatshrink) you have a hot CABLE, if that comes into contact with a ground it will pass enough flow to arc weld. Which would probably spike the heck out of the electronics, causing other damage or possibly a fire.

Just be careful and dont make a bad cituation worse, know what you are doing.

 

[Error]

Ofcourse, i forgot to mention this.., when you use clamps you have to insulate the clamp, always.., i have electric tape to wrap the clamp to make sure there is no short or it could fry something.

insulate the clamp or best use non conductive clamps.

 

[Chris_G]

Curious how you know where to stick that u-bolt/rope clamp? You will have the cut away the shrink wrap to visualize the soldered connection.

My thought was adding u clamp around heat shrink. If 0 volts is at the termination and 12 volts at the battery, I'm willing to risk it.

 

[lkshrum94]

From this thread: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ericks-reported-dealer-solutions-fixes.16862/

Provided just for reference - still unverified or sufficiently tested fix - just one (of a few) reported fixes ...

-------------- REPORT #3 [Dealer Warranty Service] ------------------

Thanks to: Facebook Post

FORD Dealer Technician Report:

-- Installed BP326 [Cable Lug]

Troubleshooting:

1) Performed Battery Test - PASS
2) Checked Fuses - PASS [All Good]
3) Inspected wires at the fuse box under the hood

FINDINGS: Found wire connector 1617a to have intermittent voltage when moving the wire. After pulling back the wrapped tape, found that where the wire was flat crimped and soldered, it was separating and causing a faulty connection.

REMOVED following for access:

1) Wrapped tape around wire connector 1617a

FIX -

REPLACED:

** Old eyelet plate with a 4-0 eyelet and re-taped the wire [P/N: Not provided]

FOLLOW UP/ VERIFICATION:

1) Road testing [Unknown verification]

Again, there's some misunderstanding here. The "cable lug" that was installed here is not the bolt everyone is talking about. Every Maverick comes with that bolt and a factory cable lug for the positive terminal. The soldered connection that is failing is where the harness is connected to the factory cable lug. In this instance, they peeled back the "tape", saw the faulty solder, threw out the old cable lug, installed a new one, and resoldered the harness. The bolt everyone claims is the new fix literally just attaches the cable lug to the terminal. New or old.

 

[Mach 1]

Error, chris, good thoughts we have to be careful and convey that to the audience as well. I just wanted everyone to play safe.

IK, i am going to try different lingo, it is the battery cable to lug(terminal) at the fuse box connection. The bolt is for the mechanical lug to fusebox connection.

Hope this helps.

 

[rjbaird91]

Ok thank you I’ll give it a shot tomorrow and give an update.

I got a average reading of 3v at the Cable lug and 12.3v directly on the 12v battery. Pushed on the wire while using the multimeter and no fluctuations

 

[rjbaird91]

Any idea what this other bolt lug is for?

 

[skinnyboy]

I got a average reading of 3v at the Cable lug and 12.3v directly on the 12v battery. Pushed on the wire while using the multimeter and no fluctuations

Voltage difference points to the battery cable connection to the termination likely being bad. A little surprised that moving the cable on the termination didn't cause the voltage to change though.

Cheers.

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