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Purchase my Maverick right off the lot

MattIngram

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Personally, I couldn’t justify being that far into negative equity, driving something off the lot. To each their own I guess. Hopefully you were able to put some money down, otherwise this is one of those rare instances GAP insurance makes sense. For that money, I’d order a Lariat, Ecoboost, AWD, FX4 and Co-pilot. I’d get the sprayin liner through the dealership and they’d probably put that order to the front of the line.
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MLowe05

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this is one of those rare instances GAP insurance makes sense.
GAP insurance making sense is not a rare instance. GAP insurance is a must for most car buyers. Not that you should, but a lot of buyers will finance 72 and even 84 months. In a normal market, that will mean basically any car will be underwater for quite some time.

Now, as far as paying down goes.. that is another discussion. But if you've got a special, super-low interest rate, there are better uses for down payment money. Our Forte is financed at 0% for 66 months. No way would I have paid cash down for that - it's free money.

In terms of the Maverick, if you can swing one of the special rates for 36/48/60 - you'd be better off financing 100%.
 

MattIngram

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GAP insurance making sense is not a rare instance. GAP insurance is a must for most car buyers. Not that you should, but a lot of buyers will finance 72 and even 84 months. In a normal market, that will mean basically any car will be underwater for quite some time.

Now, as far as paying down goes.. that is another discussion. But if you've got a special, super-low interest rate, there are better uses for down payment money. Our Forte is financed at 0% for 66 months. No way would I have paid cash down for that - it's free money.

In terms of the Maverick, if you can swing one of the special rates for 36/48/60 - you'd be better off financing 100%.
For folks that regularly overpay, it may be true about GAP insurance being a must for most of those buyers. I’ve never been in a situation, where I needed it and had quite a few vehicles paid out at a total loss over the years. Not watching the bottom line number, taking what the dealership offers on tradein, and not questioning down ticket fees and addons, typically costs the consumer about $5k. I had a dealer tell me that flat out, Capital Ford in Raleigh. My salesman told me they had to make $5k on every sale, when I questioned a lowball tradein offer and told them I could sell to Carvana for a few thousand more. Each mistake my younger self made taught me not to enter into any vehicle purchase with emotion, or attachment.
 
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MLowe05

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For folks that regularly overpay, it may be true about GAP insurance. I’ve never been in a situation, where I needed it and had quite a few vehicles paid out at a total loss over the years. Not watching the bottom line number, taking what the dealership offers on tradein, and not questioning down ticket fees and addons, typically costs the consumer about $5k. I had a dealer tell me that flat out, Capital Ford in Raleigh. My salesman told me they had to make $5k on every sale, when I questioned a lowball tradein offer and told them I could sell to Carvana for a few thousand more. Each mistake my younger self made taught me not to enter into any vehicle purchase with emotion, or attachment.
No, this is oversimplification. I've purchased about 20 cars in the past 20 years, and I have yet to come across a scenario where GAP wouldn't have made sense - and I'm well versed in this process, having been on both sides of the desk. Add-ons like extended warranties are also irrelevant to GAP, as many of them have total loss clauses refunding the purchase price in the event the car is totaled.. meaning they don't get covered by GAP anyway. I've had GAP pay out 3 times - once on a 2012 Nissan Rogue that was totaled at 6 months old, once on a Mercedes E-class lost in a house fire at 9 months old, and once on a Kia Optima totaled by a deer. All of those cars were purchased for very reasonable prices, with on add-ons as I don't do that, and financed at very low rates (I've never financed a car above 3% APR)

Also no dealership makes $5k on every sale.. especially new car sales. But then again if a car salesman tells you something, it must be true, right?
 

MattIngram

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No, this is oversimplification. I've purchased about 20 cars in the past 20 years, and I have yet to come across a scenario where GAP wouldn't have made sense - and I'm well versed in this process, having been on both sides of the desk. Add-ons like extended warranties are also irrelevant to GAP, as many of them have total loss clauses refunding the purchase price in the event the car is totaled.. meaning they don't get covered by GAP anyway. I've had GAP pay out 3 times - once on a 2012 Nissan Rogue that was totaled at 6 months old, once on a Mercedes E-class lost in a house fire at 9 months old, and once on a Kia Optima totaled by a deer. All of those cars were purchased for very reasonable prices, with on add-ons as I don't do that, and financed at very low rates (I've never financed a car above 3% APR)

Also no dealership makes $5k on every sale.. especially new car sales. But then again if a car salesman tells you something, it must be true, right?
Spoken like a true finance manager. We may have to agree to disagree. Consumers only need to know two values over the life of their Ford vehicle ownership, NADA CLEAN trade in and CLEAN retail, depending on the situation. If one takes care of their vehicle, and doesn’t have major imperfections, they should know that average tradein, average retail, or KBB devalues their vehicle, depending on who uses it, car dealer, or an insurance company. There’s always an outlier that brings down the average, like a beater, or mechanical issues, smokers car, unresolved issues, etc.. Carvana, Carmax and Vroom may be helpful but only to verify the numbers, or access the secondary market to sell a vehicle.

Nobody has to overpay on a Ford purchase, they can do fixed pricing via x plan. Taxes and fees always makes it nearly impossible to hit that mythical purchase price at NADA clean tradein for a new vehicle driven off the lot but a miss of $1-2k should be fine for most folks/circumstances, while a $4-5k miss puts folks in too much negative equity to overcome. If you go with a reputable insurance company, most consumers will stay ahead of the depreciation curve and that money would better be spent on the down payment than GAP insurance, which may never be needed. Also of note, the car brands above (Nissan, Kia, Mercedes) may have very poor residual values and/or depreciate faster. I’ve yet to have that happen on any Ford vehicle I’ve owned Escape, Edge, Fusion, Focus, Mustangs, Bronco Sport, etc. I can also say the same for a Dodge Challenger, Jeep Cherokee that had been in a fender bender, Toyota Tacoma that had been in a fender bender, a used Ford Mustang convertible, and a Chevrolet Silverado.

I’ve also had a Ford Escape that my wife went way over in miles, had been in a major accident $4-5k and then a 2nd accident, ending up in being Totaled out by Geico. Even though the red carpet lease covered us for any gap values, we did not have to invoke that part of our contract, as Geico paid in full with extras coming back to us b/c we demanded sales tax, admin fees, and DMV charges we paid for that vehicle and would have to pay again as a result it being totaled. Even asked Geico if they offered Gap insurance several times and the reps always said the same thing if you insure with us you won’t ever need it because we have to pay off any liens, as part of our insurance contract with you, or at least that’s how it works in NC.
 
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MLowe05

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Even asked Geico if they offered Gap insurance several times and the reps always said the same thing if you insure with us you won’t ever need it because we have to pay off any liens, as part of our insurance contract with you.
You're rambling and have zero idea what you're talking about. That's not surprising, though, given that you've been getting your information from car salesmen and Geico representatives. Geico, like basically all insurers, does not care what your loan balance is in the event of a total loss. They pay actual cash value (ACV). It's in your contract. Your anecdotal stories about how they paid off a loan you had means nothing to everyone else. Just like the fact that all three times I used GAP, I was insured by Geico.. that also means nothing to anyone else.

My concern is that someone will read your nonsense and believe it.

The fact is that if you are financing with less than 20% down, you should seriously consider adding a GAP waiver. Period.
 

MattIngram

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You're rambling and have zero idea what you're talking about. That's not surprising, though, given that you've been getting your information from car salesmen and Geico representatives. Geico, like basically all insurers, does not care what your loan balance is in the event of a total loss. They pay actual cash value (ACV). It's in your contract. Your anecdotal stories about how they paid off a loan you had means nothing to everyone else. Just like the fact that all three times I used GAP, I was insured by Geico.. that also means nothing to anyone else.

My concern is that someone will read your nonsense and believe it.

The fact is that if you are financing with less than 20% down, you should seriously consider adding a GAP waiver. Period.
As I said we may have to agree to disagree b/c I’d never throw my money away on a Kia, Mercedes, or Nissan. I only keep replying with facts so other folks on this forum would know how to make sure they aren’t too upside down going into their purchase. And so they don’t fall for the crooked finance manager, scaring them into something they don’t need, when they’d be better off putting that money down to lower the total cost of ownership. If they can’t put anything down and really need GAP, they’d be better off going to their own insurance company and paying some de minimis monthly cost. And not the dealership, where it’s marked up 4-5x. Good luck to you and God bless!
 
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My purchase was a cash buy for the business. 1150 miles later with the turbo AWD I’m getting 25.5 mpg and I drive the Atlanta interstates and that’s 65 to 90 mph
 
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My purchase was a cash buy for the business. 1150 miles later with the turbo AWD I’m getting 25.5 mpg and I drive the Atlanta interstates and that’s 65 to 90 mph
If it was a good value for you, that's all that matters. People here obsess about dealer markups. Most won't pay it and that's fine - nobody is forcing them. For those that need the vehicle and see value in a higher price, at least they can get the vehicles. It's a very basic feature of a free market economy that a lot of people don't seem to understand.

Glad you are happy with your purchase and I hope it helps your business's bottom line.
 

Scott Asheville

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Traditional rules don't apply to a car purchase right now. Heck, I just traded my XC40 for a new one after only two years, because the trade value was astronomical. It was almost free.

I suspect Mav demand will outstrip supply for an extended period. If a dealer had the Mav I wanted, a grand over list, I'd buy it in a heartbeat - because the perceived value (for me) of getting the truck right now outweighs any potential capital loss down the road. I need an AWD vehicle sooner than later, and my Mav order is looking like later.
 

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I did a nationwide search and found an XLT AWD on a lot in West Tenn. I paid over msrp and they had drivers deliver it from about 350 miles away. It’s the 2.0 and the only thing I’d change is the key. I’m so use to my two other Fords F150 & Explorer with fobs n push button start n I really like that feature. Great little truck.
Got my XL as soon as I saw it was available on the lot yesterday. Drove it home and added some stuff to it. Still need the bedliner.. other then that I purchased Husky black crossover tool box from Home Depot and floor mats.. sand is killer here in SC.. I'm pleased with it so far..
 

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Got my XL as soon as I saw it was available on the lot yesterday. Drove it home and added some stuff to it. Still need the bedliner.. other then that I purchased Husky black crossover tool box from Home Depot and floor mats.. sand is killer here in SC.. I'm pleased with it so far..
The tool box is for a Ranger but fits ok.. serves the purpose I need, store a few tools,take off trash and drive to work.. I have a small trailer if I need anything large.. the hitch with 2 balls fits nicely.. got it from Harbor Freight..
 

WhiteMaverick12

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I live in West TN. What dealer if I May ask? Mark up here is generally terrible. I ordered mine through Autonation Ford in Memphis for MSRP + 760 doc and tag fee.

So glad you got your truck! Really lucky find!
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