Project QuikRik. My Velocity Blue XL AWD Performance build

[colinl]

I would be concerned about fluid volume and any effect it has such as brake proportioning.

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[Dueces]

I would assume it's going to favor the back a little more after the brembos are installed, as the proportioning valve was based off of less volume needed to go to the front. But by how much, I don't know.

I'm not really concerned about it, but yeah I do expect it to change slightly. It's all new stuff to me, so I'll just roll with the punches!

 

[Maverickman74]

Brake upgrades provide benefits, but shortened stopping distance is not one of them. That comes down to tires. See this article from Road & Track magazine.

I don't think it will be very accurate to compare the Volvo's stopping distance since it's on different tires than the Mav. And if that model Volvo costs more than the Mav, it's reasonable to expect that the tires are probably better than the Mav's as well.

If you want to get the most out of your brakes, whether they're stock or upgraded, use better tires than what came on the XL from the factory. @Dueces - I hope that's a part of your plan (I haven't read your whole build thread).

The Car and Driver tested Volvo was on 235 sized tires. Which is similar to alot of Mavericks it is also on tires from 15 years ago. I wouldnt be so sure about them being all that better than the treads today.

 

[Dueces]

So I was planning to do the milling myself, but a buddy who is a machinist apprentice at the same place I work, offered to do it on the training NC machines! Can't pass that up! Lol. Just a teaser picture, and he works on the driver's side. You'll notice the mill I had him use has a large radius on it, and that's to keep it from stress fracturing.

I'm still working on the brake lines, and I think I can get away with making some fittings to adapt our hard lines, to the soft lines of the volvo s60r. Still working that out though!

 

[Dueces]

Guess he got this one complete before leaving today. So tomorrow I should be able to mount them both again and verify fitment of calipers and wheels!

 

[Dueces]

Ok, I got the calipers back, all milled down. I test fit the driver's side, which needed more material taken off. And it's about as perfect as I could hope for, perfectly centered on the rotor!

It also clears the 17x7 Bronco Sport wheels by about .060"! That may not seem like much, but an inch is a mile in this particular case!

Another cool thing in the Ford playbook is their banjo bolts! They no longer drill a hole through the center, they cut a groove in the threads, which saves a bunch of machining time, ie, makes them way cheaper! Eric Bernard found this out! Very cool!

My S60R brake likes came in, and the last piece of the puzzle will be here on Tuesday, so I'll be able to see if I can make an easy adapter to the Ford hardline!

Thanks for looking!

 

[Libertyb78]

Interested to see how the brake line setup comes along.

 

[Dueces]

Well, I've changed the setup I was planning to do! I have ordered fittings and and lines that should be in late this week. I decided to just do 3AN stainess lines, with adapters on each end.

The adapters needed are 10x1.0mm bubble flare to 3AN, and 3AN to female inverted flare 10x1.0mm. I'm taking a guess on the latter, but hopefully it's correct. I should be able to get it all put together next weekend.

Also, I did a quick 60-0 braking test on the dragy, and stock it did it in 109ft, which seems pretty good to me....

 

[Dueces]

Small update: The 3AN lines and the last two fittings should be in today! I am getting excited to see this play out!

I do have my reservations that this will improve the 60-0 distance, but I am in uncharted territory, as this is the first brake upgrade I have ever done!

Here is a quick breakdown of the costs I have for this setup. I'll include the parts I plan to use, and not the extra lines and fittings I purchased, as those were trial and error, emphasis on the error....

Calipers $318.78

Pads (Centric standard replacements) $16.10

Shipping and Tax on Calipers and Pads $58.41

JEGS #100784 3AN X 10mmx1.0 Female Inverted Flare Adapters $22.20 Shipped

China 3AN X 10mmx1.0 Male Bubble Flare Adapters $9.99

Edelbrock/Russell #655060 3AN lines $39.90

Tax on adapters and lines $3.87

Total Spent: $469.25

Of course I had access to get the calipers milled, if you had to have someone do this, it may cost a couple hundred dollars.

AND, I still have no clue if this is all going to work! However, I am about %98 sure it's correct, and should have this stuff put on early this weekend! updates to follow, thanks for looking!

 

[Dueces]

Well, my 98% sure turned into 0%!!!! Hahaha. I didn't want to take the brake line off and have to bleed it, so I made a very bad assumption!

The factory line uses 10mmx1.5 thread, with an inverted flare. So back to the drawing board. I'll try to find a -3AN to female inverted 10x1.5, that would be the best case, but idk if they make such a thing. Live and learn!

 

[Superg0]

dammit CSX, get that train moving so I can do things to my Mav....

 

[Col1981]

Hey John, amazing work and attitude on this thread. Very impressive what you’ve done. I don’t know if you’ve saw it yet or not but there’s a forscan thread where the guy figured out how to get launch control on the XL’s. Basically every time you come to a complete stop the launch control will show and you just hit the ok button on the right side of the wheel to get it started. I’ve tried it and it works, but still have to mess with it because it was trying to leave before I wanted, probably had the rpm set too low but it’s adjustable just havent had enough time to mess with it. I’ve read this thread a few times lol and I know it’s a struggle trying to build boost just brake torquing but this might be big for guys trying to go fast.

 

[Dueces]

I will for sure look into it! It's going to be hard to do a lot to the truckette in the next few months, as I'm coaching 2 baseball teams and assisting a 3rd, lol. That and I'm flipping a 2019 Escape where I'm rebuilding the engine, but I love to get into the weeds on side stuff, lol.

Thanks for the heads up!

 

[onemuir]

Looks great! On a different end of things I really need to make something like this out of steel. I popped the rear scoop( bumper I mean) off on one side offroading. It really not a great setup. I need to make something similar for a skid plate.

Been reading through your posts. (Awesome!) I’d love to run the bigger turbo and a mild tune but my skills and mechanical patience is pretty limited. I’ll live vicariously through you.
I love your concept of better aero! I was actually thinking of using a fairly stiff plastic. The underside aero is a mess underneath these trucks. If you can get a thin aluminum or reasonably stiff plastic underneath (especially under the hot bits, aluminum) put the correct “bow” in it and you could get some downforce with little drag. But smooth is good.
Im a huge Formula One fan and love all the aerodynamics that go along with. The big problem that they face is the tires. Creates a LOT of dirty air/drag. (Maybe put larger spats in front of the tires. At least during a run. A front air dam very close to the ground will keep the air out from underneath. Also look at the leading edge of the hood and the upper grill area. Anything to smooth that area would help. Land speed cars use good old duct tape to seal up every seem, parts of the grill etc. might be worth a look to see what they do with stock vehicles. mirrors are also terrible for aerodynamics. Maybe try folding them in during a run. Just my 2 cents. Can’t wait till you’re in the 11’s! Post a you tube video of one of your runs!

 

[Maverickman74]

Been reading through your posts. (Awesome!) I’d love to run the bigger turbo and a mild tune but my skills and mechanical patience is pretty limited. I’ll live vicariously through you.
I love your concept of better aero! I was actually thinking of using a fairly stiff plastic. The underside aero is a mess underneath these trucks. If you can get a thin aluminum or reasonably stiff plastic underneath (especially under the hot bits, aluminum) put the correct “bow” in it and you could get some downforce with little drag. But smooth is good.
Im a huge Formula One fan and love all the aerodynamics that go along with. The big problem that they face is the tires. Creates a LOT of dirty air/drag. (Maybe put larger spats in front of the tires. At least during a run. A front air dam very close to the ground will keep the air out from underneath. Also look at the leading edge of the hood and the upper grill area. Anything to smooth that area would help. Land speed cars use good old duct tape to seal up every seem, parts of the grill etc. might be worth a look to see what they do with stock vehicles. mirrors are also terrible for aerodynamics. Maybe try folding them in during a run. Just my 2 cents. Can’t wait till you’re in the 11’s! Post a you tube video of one of your runs!

At first I was really flattered until I realized this post was meant for Dueces. Im sure he got the message.

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