Maverick XLT audio build (Morel / JL / Kicker)

[MaxPower002]

I am looking at upgrading the audio in my 2026 Maverick XLT (non-B&O) and would appreciate feedback. Not looking to blow out the windows, but wanted a definitely higher-end system. Here is what I am thinking:

Front: Morel Tempo Ultra 602 MKII components
Rear: Morel Tempo Ultra 402 Integra 4"
Amp: Kicker KEY200.4
Sub: JL Audio Stealthbox / Morel MPD 1.1500 mono amp
Sound treatment: Morel 4.5 mm door

Has anyone considered something similar? Different? Thoughts? Experiences with JL Stealthbox?

Lance

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[Carlitos_92]

Tons of audio build threads on the forum. Pick a search term and try the search feature at the top right.

 

[MaxPower002]

#ThanksCaptainObvious

 

[Carlitos_92]

#ThanksCaptainObvious

#You'reWelcomeLieutenantLazy

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/search/6495902/?q=morel&o=date

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/search/6496161/?q=Stealthbox&o=date

 

[rallyshark]

You're picking some solid, but expensive, gear. I have nothing bad to say about any of it, but.... If you're gonna go that far, go ahead and hit the next level with the 4 channel amp and a dedicated DSP. A Morel 4 channel can be had for around the same price as the kicker key. Some would tell you to go full active and go with a 6 channel amp, while ditching the component crossover(I'm not one of them). There would be additional cost for the stand alone DSP, but not a lot in the whole scheme of things. The dedicated DSP will give you way more control over things, and will give you the added benefit of being able to EQ the sub. Being able to EQ the sub is pretty great, when dealing all of the peaks/valleys/resonances cars can have. These trucks tend to have some pretty nasty peaks in the bass in the 50-100hz range. Having full control over the time alignment/phase will yield some pretty amazing results in the highs too. Not to mention being able to tailor the sound exactly to your liking.

Alternatively, there's room to save a lot of money and get pretty good results too. Drop the budget for your component set to $250, and $100 for the rear speakers. Keep the key 200.4. Go with the kicker 500.1 for the sub (I'm still a fan of going stand alone DSP, no matter the budget though). Get one of the aftermarket subwoofer boxes, and sub of your choice. You could still come out with a stereo that is leaps and bounds better than factory, and spend a lot less money than your current wish list would be. Just don't forget to set the factory EQ to flat with Forscan, once you get started. That's just my opinion, and others will have other suggestions. Either way, it doesn't take much to make huge improvements over the factory setup

 

[squirlz]

Why not go with the MPD 5.550? One amplifier, plenty of power for a single 10" and it simplifies the install. I have not heard the JL Stealth box, but seems a bit pricey, I think you could do better with a prefab box and an efficient sub of your choice. The Dayton RSS265HS-44 would be a great choice, you would be close to half the price with enclosure.

I can say without a doubt that going full active with a DSP is amaizing, but there is a lot of extra cost that goes with it. To take full advantage you will need to tune with a calibrated microphone, spend time learning how to tune, or pay someone to tune. Having gone with a 3 way front stage with proper XO, EQ, and TA I will never be able to go without. It does not compare to anything else but it is an investment.

I think with what you have listed or with the options above it will be far better than factory. Spend some time on applying CLD to the door and door panel and using foam where you can to reduce buzzes, the doors are pretty noisy untreated.

You can always add a DSP later, getting one with input correction really helps too.

 

[outothswrld]

Agreed that your choice of equipment is solid, but as rallyshark said, you can get more bang for your buck if you downgrade and still end up with a quality audio system you will enjoy.

I decided to go the cheaper route and I’m pretty darn happy. Focal auditor components, focal acx 100 rears, kicker key 200.4 and a kicker key LOC for with my Kicker hideaway sub. So far my biggest complaint isn’t from the equipment but from the audio files. When playing “lossless” audio on Apple music or Spotify it sounds AMAZING. Anything lower is noticeable though. To me, that is a testament to the quality of the system that I am able to hear the difference. All for about half of what you would spend with your selected components.

However, as mentioned, if you’re already spending that much on a system you might as well go full dsp (which isn’t cheap to buy/install). That said, a kicker key will do WONDERS for the soundstage and with that equipment I’m sure you will be happy.

 

[rusty_shackleford]

Ive heard the JL stealthbox is lackluster in performance and accuracy. Ive been very happy with a JL 10tw3 in the Skar fiberglass box. Dont forget to disable the factory bass rolloff in forscan.

You'll need to run wires to the tweeters in order to use the crossover with those front components, not much more work to add a 6 or 8 channel amp instead. Like others may have said, full active is a little better. With a proper DSP to protect the doors and tweeters, you wont even need the crossovers.

JBL DSP4086 is a decent little combo DSP/8 channel amp, with 31 band PEQ. Probably one of the more affordable of the true DSP/amp combos. Will deliver 40w/channel to the speakers, and thats plenty loud for me. Its more work to get it tuned than the KEY but worth it IMHO.

I have one, using 6 channels for tweeters, doors and speakers, and 2 channels to a LOC for the subwoofer amp.

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