Large Gauge Wire Run

[MakinDoForNow]

There are definitely some high-dollar hybrid trucks for SEMA and minitruck shows that have pretty big systems connected directly to the battery. The biggest ones I've seen, though, are ecoboost and have at least one add-on alternator.

Changing topics, slightly -
I'm not going to bother looking for it now, but several years ago I advocated for connecting the power wire to the positive jump point under the hood. My rationale is that a high current fuse in the passenger compartment is a lot less desirable than a high current fuse under the hood. Basically, treat that point as if it were the 12V battery in a traditional vehicle.

I now realize that would put a lot of extra current on the cabling between the battery and jump point, which is probably a bigger fire hazard than directly attaching the power wire to the 12V battery under the seat. The cabling between the jump point and battery obviously is capable of a heavy load but I just don't think the tradeoff is worth it. The power wire can be so much shorter when it's directly on the hybrid battery.

What is critical is using the right gauge power wire, with the fuse holder or circuit breaker as close to the battery as possible and *NEVER* use a fuseable link that is higher rated than the power wire gauge and length being used. Be careful with copper clad aluminum as it carries a lot less current than oxygen free copper.

Most of time when truck is in ready state the DCDC converter is supplying the current so a separate wire would reduce current on factory wire to battery. The jump point would have to be located where the BCM Could recognize the draw. So most likely anywhere would be ok as long as circuit is at body ground and not on negative battery post where the BMS is located. There was a member who replaced his Ford 12v with a DIY LiFePO4 with it's separate BMS to limit charge level to 85% or so. If I remember correctly he reported that it would charge at 100amps.

Sponsored