Kicker Key 500.1 Not working

[SpaceCowboy]

I did the 200.4 auto tune before I had the 500.1 installed could that be the problem. And how would you change the crossover setting? Only thing I messed with on the 200.4 is gain

You don't want the subwoofer connected while doing the tune for the 200.4

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[PMAG538]

So the sub is rated for 200rms and a max of 400rms. Yes so that’s my biggest concern when I go through the process with the tuneing it will never flash for the gain match I can turn the gain all the way up and nothing it’s really odd. I will take a picture of the sub now.

here’s what the sub looks like it’s rough right now the box isn’t totally done just put it in to see if everything would work and it didn’t so once it works I’ll finish the box to my liking lol

 

[colinl]

I did the 200.4 auto tune before I had the 500.1 installed could that be the problem. And how would you change the crossover setting? Only thing I messed with on the 200.4 is gain

it's in the 200.4 manual. there are dip switches on one end. set the switches for 80hz high pass because 6.5 mids can absolutely play 80hz with a 24db crossover. if you set it higher (I think factory is 120?) you will lose midbass.

set the gain at minimum then run auto-setup. it's interesting that the key 200.4 even has gain, because it sets it automatically using the mic and test tones, and it shouldn't be tweaked after.

this is different from 500.1 which you play a different test tone (this is all on Kicker's site), and start turning up the gain until the light flashes, then down a tiny smidge.

 

[PMAG538]

You don't want the subwoofer connected while doing the tune for the 200.4

Okay co

it's in the 200.4 manual. there are dip switches on one end. set the switches for 80hz high pass because 6.5 mids can absolutely play 80hz with a 24db crossover. if you set it higher (I think factory is 120?) you will lose midbass.

set the gain at minimum then run auto-setup. it's interesting that the key 200.4 even has gain, because it sets it automatically using the mic and test tones, and it shouldn't be tweaked after.

this is different from 500.1 which you play a different test tone (this is all on Kicker's site), and start turning up the gain until the light flashes, then down a tiny smidge.

Okay I will do this. This doesn’t have anything to do with the sub tho or do you think this will fix it ?

 

[PMAG538]

it's in the 200.4 manual. there are dip switches on one end. set the switches for 80hz high pass because 6.5 mids can absolutely play 80hz with a 24db crossover. if you set it higher (I think factory is 120?) you will lose midbass.

set the gain at minimum then run auto-setup. it's interesting that the key 200.4 even has gain, because it sets it automatically using the mic and test tones, and it shouldn't be tweaked after.

this is different from 500.1 which you play a different test tone (this is all on Kicker's site), and start turning up the gain until the light flashes, then down a tiny smidge.

Yeah on the 500.1 when I do the gain match I can’t get it to flash at all.

 

[colinl]

Yeah on the 500.1 when I do the gain match I can’t get it to flash at all.

I would get some other source and connect it temporarily. I have a PAC tone generator, they're like $50. if you have anything that can output for a headphone jack you can cobble together adapters from there, but honestly instead of spending $20+ on that, I'd just get the tone generator.

you could also use anything that can do rca output and a long set of rca cables from a friend's car with an amp, or even a home theater receiver. again, cost on those kinda sucks.

 

[CurtisB]

Try this.

Turn on you stereo like you are just going to run it normally and play some music.

Go to the settings in the stock head unit and get to the audio settings.

Move the slide bars for the balance to the extreme left and right side and see if any sound comes out of your woofer.

If you still get no sound from your woofer, slide the fader all the way from front to back and see if you get any sound from your woofer.



Tell us what happens...........

 

[PMAG538]

Try this.

Turn on you stereo like you are just going to run it normally and play some music.

Go to the settings in the stock head unit and get to the audio settings.

Move the slide bars for the balance to the extreme left and right side and see if any sound comes out of your woofer.

If you still get no sound from your woofer, slide the fader all the way from front to back and see if you get any sound from your woofer.



Tell us what happens...........

I put it all the way to the front and put it to the far left and right and it definitely goes on what does this mean?

 

[CurtisB]

I put it all the way to the front and put it to the far left and right and it definitely goes on what does this mean?

Your wiring is not syncing with the stock head units software setup. I wound up sitting in my truck and messing with the front, rear settings till it sounded balanced in all speakers. It will look skewed in the head units screen, but the sound will sound even all around. I know, crazy right?

There is a guy somewhere in this forum who took the time to show us all how to wire up after market systems in the hybrid Mavericks. I didn't see his posting until after I spent hours and days of splicing and dicing.

I wish I remember who this guy was, but he did a COMPLETE write up. I mean it goes on for pages. But he did it right and it sounds great.

 

[colinl]

I put it all the way to the front and put it to the far left and right and it definitely goes on what does this mean?

can you explain that a little better, please?

so, if it's faded all the way front center - low output?

then if you leave it faded front, and move balance to full left, better output? and then the same for full right?

 

[PMAG538]

Your wiring is not syncing with the stock head units software setup. I wound up sitting in my truck and messing with the front, rear settings till it sounded balanced in all speakers. It will look skewed in the head units screen, but the sound will sound even all around. I know, crazy right?

There is a guy somewhere in this forum who took the time to show us all how to wire up after market systems in the hybrid Mavericks. I didn't see his posting until after I spent hours and days of splicing and dicing.

I wish I remember who this guy was, but he did a COMPLETE write up. I mean it goes on for pages. But he did it right and it sounds great.

How does one do this with out it sounding to far front or left or right for me I have to put it all the way front and to the ether left or right for sub to come on.

 

[PMAG538]

can you explain that a little better, please?

so, if it's faded all the way front center - low output?

then if you leave it faded front, and move balance to full left, better output? and then the same for full right?

If i leave it centered no sub output i move it front left or front right sub comes on.

 

[colinl]

If i leave it centered no sub output i move it front left or front right sub comes on.

polarity is reversed somewhere which makes the left and right channels cancel when summed for the sub.

most likely it's the T harness. you need a voltmeter to find out where and how to correct it. speaker-level output is AC. put your multimeter on 20v or whatever is near that and go.

unplug the white connector for the key 500.1 and look at the manual if needed, but the four square is this:
top left = left pos
low left = left neg
top right = right pos
low right = right neg

leave the balance centered and play a test tone then probe these connections. write down what you get so you don't confuse it.

bet you'll get positive voltage on one and negative on the other. go to the key 200.4 and do the same thing (the harness is a little more complicated check the manual). bet it's reversed on one side also, but you hadn't noticed because they are just out of phase, rather than summed mono which cancels out the sub.

at that point I'd complain to the harness maker to get them to exchange the harness, but technically you could probe again where it Ts into the factory harness and find the 2 pins that are swapped.

if you do this and you don't find a reversed channel, that will be quite the mystery, lol.

 

[CurtisB]

polarity is reversed somewhere which makes the left and right channels cancel when summed for the sub.

most likely it's the T harness. you need a voltmeter to find out where and how to correct it. speaker-level output is AC. put your multimeter on 20v or whatever is near that and go.

unplug the white connector for the key 500.1 and look at the manual if needed, but the four square is this:
top left = left pos
low left = left neg
top right = right pos
low right = right neg

leave the balance centered and play a test tone then probe these connections. write down what you get so you don't confuse it.

bet you'll get positive voltage on one and negative on the other. go to the key 200.4 and do the same thing (the harness is a little more complicated check the manual). bet it's reversed on one side also, but you hadn't noticed because they are just out of phase, rather than summed mono which cancels out the sub.

at that point I'd complain to the harness maker to get them to exchange the harness, but technically you could probe again where it Ts into the factory harness and find the 2 pins that are swapped.

if you do this and you don't find a reversed channel, that will be quite the mystery, lol.

Thanks for this. I did my build prior to knowing that one could "buy" a harness and attempted to make my own............obviously I didn't do it right.............LoL

 

[colinl]

Thanks for this. I did my build prior to knowing that one could "buy" a harness and attempted to make my own............obviously I didn't do it right.............LoL

your suggestion was a great one. my suggestion with the alternate source achieves the same thing: proving that the amp is good, and the source (very likely the handmade T harness) is bad.

but the OP can't do my method without a tone generator, and you suggested a way to check it without. cheers.

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