WOW. I have almost always switched to K&N at first oil change as I believed it was better for extreme dirty conditions, I guess I won't do that again.This seems like a good review of air filters, the pros and cons of different brands. K&N scored high in air flow but lowest in filtering particulate matter:
I don't think a lot of people understand what they are and how they differ from a paper filter. If you are willing to put in the work to maintain them they're fine.For anyone who decides to go with a K&N, remember to clean and oil it regularly. SOOOO many people install it and never maintain the filter, we've seen them in our shop falling apart from getting dried out and clogged up.
Been running the same K/N filter since 2006 and 160k miles- Clean and re-oil once a year, thing still looks new-I don't think a lot of people understand what they are and how they differ from a paper filter. If you are willing to put in the work to maintain them they're fine.
pretty sure it's a different part. Different motor and all. FA 1948? Check the manualForgive my ignorance, is the Hybrid's filter size different from the 2.0? Looking to get a K&N filter for my hybrid and saw people are waiting to determine which one fits.
I can tell you from my own experience that there is a significant difference in fuel economy between an oem and K&N filter. I have a 2.0T AWD. I had a significant drop in economy with a K&N filter, at least driving locally; which is the majority of my driving. More air equals more fuel with computerized systems. After decades of fuel injection, people are still using carburated systems as an example. I just reinstalled the oem filter and filled up. The system has yet to recalibrate to the more restrictive air intake, though my mpg , according to the dash indicator, has improved considerably, but the miles left to drive has yet to recalibrate.Agreed. Free flowing intake improves MPG. Unless you can’t resist getting into the throttle because now you have a race car.
Edit: meant to say improves efficiency. Which unfortunately means you may burn more fuel by volume.
The throttle plate controls air flow except at WOT. It is the restriction.Interesting, hope to hear some more tests with it. You'd think more air would help it burn cleaner but that ratio is probably already computed for optimal burn at the factory.
Turbos will not tolerate particulate matter in the air, even fluid droplets will erode the compressor wheel.Somebody needs to tell mclaren Ferrari and porsche to start using oiled air filters. Look up ISO 5011 test on diesel engine filters. Good luck with your long term engine wear.
The throttle is more restrictive than the air filter. Who measures fuel economy with the throttle wide open? You might, possibly increase power, maybe. It won't be noticeable and would require a dyno or timed acceleration runs back to back to prove or measure.The perfect AFR for gas is 14.7 to 1, air to gas. All gas ICE designed to run rich, in the 10-12 to 1 range so as to prevent predetonation, keep temps lower, etc. So if a computer is spitting out fuel to keep the AFR at 11:1, then giving it more air just causes more gas to be spit so the ratio stays at 11. A lot of people use this to argue that the computer prevents more power from being realized.
So I think you should look at it from another perspective with respect to "decreased fuel economy". Increase in air flow, which will happen at all RPM (it will just be much higher at higher RPM), will cause the introduction of more gas which will result in more available power at similar RPMs. At the same throttle input, more power will be made. So if you add a high flow filter, and you use the same throttle input, you are going to use more gas and feel more power at the detriment of lower mpg. However, you can now use less throttle to achieve the same power as before, which would result in less gas at the same effective power/acceleration.