High-output alternator

[Rjckey]

I’m putting a powerful audio system in the Maverick and I’m not sure what aftermarket alternator I can add to the Maverick to support the system. Has anyone put a high amperage audio system that can help?

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[Automate]

With the EcoBoost, if you ordered the 120VAC outlet, you already have a higher output alternator.

 

[Rjckey]

With the EcoBoost, if you ordered the 120VAC outlet, you already have a higher output alternator.

I don’t remember if I did or not

 

[All4spl]

Do not quote me on this but I think the Escape uses the same style alternator, so in theory anyone like Mechman or Singer who may make one for an escape could make one for your maverick.

 

[2bit maverick.]

I’m putting a powerful audio system in the Maverick and I’m not sure what aftermarket alternator I can add to the Maverick to support the system. Has anyone put a high amperage audio system that can help?

Did you find a solution to your alternator upgrade, I'm also installing a high amp system in mine and I will need a bigger alternator.

 

[Lane]

Unless a person is building a system for SPL competition, or with some serious insanity to it, it's very unlikely that you would need more current than the stock alternator produces. Especially since a lot of amplifiers today are super-efficient Class D with super low power requirements.

Some of the information in this thread may be helpful. See the link for "the big 3". I'd strongly suggest getting everything installed, and then if you see problem signs, take the actions noted in the big 3 article. If it still seems like the system's current requirements are beyond what the truck can provide, then consider a stiffening capacitor or an alternator replacement. I had one made for a prior car - there are businesses that will "re-wind" a factory alternator to provide whatever current you're looking for.

 

[colinl]

Define powerful?

If it's less than 100A total fuse capacity I'm sure it'll be fine.

 

[2bit maverick.]

Unless a person is building a system for SPL competition, or with some serious insanity to it, it's very unlikely that you would need more current than the stock alternator produces. Especially since a lot of amplifiers today are super-efficient Class D with super low power requirements.

Some of the information in this thread may be helpful. See the link for "the big 3". I'd strongly suggest getting everything installed, and then if you see problem signs, take the actions noted in the big 3 article. If it still seems like the system's current requirements are beyond what the truck can provide, then consider a stiffening capacitor or an alternator replacement. I had one made for a prior car - there are businesses that will "re-wind" a factory alternator to provide whatever current you're looking for.

I'm not a wiz at math or anything but I'm going to run

Unless a person is building a system for SPL competition, or with some serious insanity to it, it's very unlikely that you would need more current than the stock alternator produces. Especially since a lot of amplifiers today are super-efficient Class D with super low power requirements.

Some of the information in this thread may be helpful. See the link for "the big 3". I'd strongly suggest getting everything installed, and then if you see problem signs, take the actions noted in the big 3 article. If it still seems like the system's current requirements are beyond what the truck can provide, then consider a stiffening capacitor or an alternator replacement. I had one made for a prior car - there are businesses that will "re-wind" a factory alternator to provide whatever current you're looking for.

 

[2bit maverick.]

I'm not a wiz at math or anything but I'm going to run

Sorry trying to type while on a atv, but I'm getting ready to run 2300 watt amp for subs, and a separate amp to power the door speakers and possibly a couple LED lights . This is my first time upgrading a newer vehicle audio system. I know on my oldies the alternator had to go if u ran pass a 1000 watts . As u can probably tell I'm out of date on my knowledge, so any advice would help. Thank y'all for responding.

 

[colinl]

I'm getting ready to run 2300 watt amp for subs, and a separate amp to power the door speakers and possibly a couple LED lights .

Yeah, just check the fuse rating on that amp and whatever other. Like Lane and others said, modern class D amps are pretty efficient and don't waste as much power as old class A/B did.

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