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Has anyone here used an FL1A or equivelant oil filter in the 2.0?

Jalopy Technology

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Ok.

I have an affinity for large body oil filters. I mostly use an FL1A size filter on my Ford and Mopar engines.

The FL910S spec'd for the Maverick 2.0 has the same 3/4"-16 thread and the same dimension for the gasket.

The oil pressure relief valve is set for 14#'s. Other brands I have seen vary between 8-11 #'s.

I likely won't use a Motorcraft filter because my local Federated Parts store has great prices for Baldwin filters.

Has anyone here used the larger filter? Will it fit above the access panel?
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todd92

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There is no need for a larger filter. But if it fits and gives you a false sense of security, go for it.
 

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if nothing other than using a full 6qts I'm in. I'll use the WIX equivalent.
 
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There is no need for a larger filter. But if it fits and gives you a false sense of security, go for it.
Well a larger filter certainly has a larger surface area for extra filtration.

My class 8 diesels have filters that hold 3 qts of oil...there's a reason for that.
 

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I have seen a post from a couple years ago where a guy used an FL1A but a picture showed it hanging down past the block quite a bit. Maybe if you search around you can find it.
As for me, I'll not use anything but the FL910S as long as my truck is in warranty. No need to give some dealer an excuse to deny warranty coverage in the event of an engine failure because a non specified oil filter was installed.
 

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Yes- you can use the FL1A sized filter. Just need to bend a coolant hose bracket a little to give some more clearance. I pointed to it in my pics, otherwise you will see it when you try to fit the new filter. Just use something smooth jawed so you don't mark it up and give it a little tweak -- doesn't take much. The new filter does not hang down too low or void your warranty or cause loss of oil pressure or make your engine explode or any other myths about using something other than factory spec'd -- and it will bring total oil capacity to right at 6 quarts.
Ford Maverick Has anyone here used an FL1A or equivelant oil filter in the 2.0? PXL_20240523_035010095.MPb
Ford Maverick Has anyone here used an FL1A or equivelant oil filter in the 2.0? PXL_20240523_035121959b
 

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Here is some raw data I've gathered on the three Motorcraft filters typically used/interchanged on the 2.0 engines. I've used all three on Zetec 2.0, Duratec 2.0 Ti-VCT and Ecoboost 2.0 in the past:

Ford Maverick Has anyone here used an FL1A or equivelant oil filter in the 2.0? MCfilters


  • FL-400s is more of a direct replacement for the FL-910s, as the bypass valve is of the same type and similar average pressure, but with slightly higher filtering capacity and volume.
  • the FL-1A provides 13.7 ounces more oil volume than the FL-910s, which represents a 7.8% increase in total engine oil volume.
  • The FL-1A offers 2.6 times more filter media than the FL-910s. This improves the filtering capacity of the filter, but not the efficiency.

My intention is not to advise anyone on what filter to use, but I will include my opinions on the data above. Note that I'm only considering the Motorcraft branded filters here, and not substitutions from other manufacturers:
  • I don't view 7.8% as a meaningful increase in oil volume (less than half a quart).
  • I have a preference for upper bypass valves for the vertical filter configuration on these engines, as any bypassed oil would be supplied from the "cleaner" end of the can. The difference would be meaningless on an engine with a horizontally-mounted filter.
  • The increased filtering capacity of the FL-1A could lower the incidence of bypass due to the amount of trapped particles it can hold, but the lower average valve pressure of the FL-1A could allow more frequent bypass due to extreme cold. The FL-1A could be a consideration for engines that produce a lot of deposits/particulates over an OCI, or for extended OCI, but a clean-running engine with short OCIs will see no benefit. If oil analysis starts showing high particulate counts over an OCI beyond what the FL-910s can handle, it could be considered an improvement.
 
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billbillw

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I have used the FL400S since my first oil change. It gives me a little more peace of mind and no mods needed. I don't see any reason to go bigger especially since I'm doing roughly 4500 mile OCIs. I certainly wouldn't bend something to make a large one fit.
 
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Yes- you can use the FL1A sized filter. Just need to bend a coolant hose bracket a little to give some more clearance. I pointed to it in my pics, otherwise you will see it when you try to fit the new filter. Just use something smooth jawed so you don't mark it up and give it a little tweak -- doesn't take much. The new filter does not hang down too low or void your warranty or cause loss of oil pressure or make your engine explode or any other myths about using something other than factory spec'd -- and it will bring total oil capacity to right at 6 quarts.
PXL_20240523_035010095.MPb.jpg
PXL_20240523_035121959b.jpg
Well I figured someone had given it a shot.

Heck I could just beat the filter housing until it went into submission... I had a girlfriend that did that!

Anywho I usually buy a case of filters when I can get a deal. I used to buy the Federated Auto Parts private label oil filters when they were made by Baldwin in Nebraska... but now they are Chinese.

So I switched to the gennie Baldwins from the same local parts store... I would bet they are still under $5 even in these inflationary times.

I used Baldwin for years on my trucks until I saw how well the Caterpillar filters were made. Under normal conditions just about any filter will do the job...but if the engine develops a seeping head gasket the larger will have more capacity to deal with the contaminants until repairs are done.

Having one oil filter for four vehicles helps a bit, too.
 
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A.Bursell

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I certainly wouldn't bend something to make a large one fit.
It's a little bracket supporting a small cooling hose that gets bent about 1/4" or so. You don't even have to bend it really, it just gives some additional clearance so the oil filter isn't touching the hose. If I didn't point it out , you would never even know looking at it.
 
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Anywho I usually buy a case of filters when I can get a deal.
This is a good thought. All of the vehicles I currently own (5) can run a FL-1A, so if I were buying in bulk, that would be the way to go. As it is, I also have two Kohler-powered mowers that run the FL-910s, so I usually have both available in my garage at all times. I'm pretty happy at this point that I only have to buy two filters (FL-910s & Wix 1515 FL-1A equivalent) to cover all seven applications!
 

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Here is some raw data I've gathered on the three Motorcraft filters typically used/interchanged on the 2.0 engines. I've used all three on Zetec 2.0, Duratec 2.0 Ti-VCT and Ecoboost 2.0 in the past:

MCfilters.webp


  • FL-400s is more of a direct replacement for the FL-910s, as the bypass valve is of the same type and similar average pressure, but with slightly higher filtering capacity and volume.
  • the FL-1A provides 13.7 ounces more oil volume than the FL-910s, which represents a 7.8% increase in total engine oil volume.
  • The FL-1A offers 2.6 times more filter media than the FL-910s. This improves the filtering capacity of the filter, but not the efficiency.

  • I have a preference for upper bypass valves for the vertical filter configuration on these engines, as any bypassed oil would be supplied from the "cleaner" end of the can. The difference would be meaningless on an engine with a horizontally-mounted filter.
The location of the bypass valve is something I have not thought about much but it really sounds like a logically better location to be on the top.

Thank you for the chart showing the comparison. The filter on the FL-1A is a lot bigger, maybe worth it to someone doing the risky extended oil changes. But I am doing oil filter changes at 5000 miles or less so I don't think it is needed.

When Changing the oil I have seen the filter having the coolant line right next to it and filter being a low point on the engine. But it could be done. Something to keep in mind if you cant find the right filter in an emergency.
 
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Tbone289

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The location of the bypass valve is something I have not thought about much but it really sounds like a logically better location to be on the top.
Yeah, this actually used to be a moot point, because for years the bypass on the FL-1A was upper just like the others, but they recently moved it to the bottom. I have no idea why. So, I tend to use FL-1A equivalent (Wix 1515) for horizontal-mount applications and the 910s or 400s for vertical-mount.

This is where I discovered they had changed the bypass:

 
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Yeah, this actually used to be a moot point, because for years the bypass on the FL-1A was upper just like the others, but they recently moved it to the bottom. I have no idea why. So, I tend to use FL-1A equivalent (Wix 1515) for horizontal-mount applications and the 910s or 400s for vertical-mount.

This is where I discovered they had changed the bypass:

Did Motorcraft change filter suppliers?

Lots of changes in the filter biz lately. Mann bought WIX last year.
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