Break In Opinions

[Krunty]

Lots of opinions, with lots of ways people break in their engines. So here mine. First things I avoid, I never let the engine lug, I never let the engine idle for more than what it takes to drive my car safely, no drive thoughs, no remotes starts on a cold day while I wait in my house, no running the engine at the same rpm for a long drives. Then I drive it gently until the coolant and oil have fully warmed up, then when I can safely do so, I will accelerate moderately but briskly, from a roll to about 4000rpm. I want the engine to work but no where near it’s max output. I work this in in my daily commute until 1000 mile approx, then I will push it to higher rpms as before, fully warmed, and from a roll, moderately but brisk acceleration force. At around 1000 to 2000 miles, dump the oil, change the filter. After that I still keep all the other practices, fully warmed up etc, but I will not fear a daily wot to pass, or accelerate from a stand still.

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[icegradner]

... I never let the engine idle for more than what it takes to drive my car safely...

Thankfully engine idling isn't a big problem for the hybrid, the gas engine will shut off under most conditions when a normal vehicle would idle.

 

[LowLeadAV]

if anyone buys the one i test drove before i put my order in...pretty sure those ten miles were in the "broke in hard" range. lets just say i found the governor

 

[JimParker256]

I have a Mav hybrid on order in East Tennessee, and we live in Texas. My plan is to pick it up in person, and swing up to Kentucky to spend a day or so with my brother. Then I plan to drive around the backroads in the Smokies for a while before driving it back to Texas on mostly back roads. Driving those roads should provide the "vared speed and rpm" that is needed for a decent break-in period. I'll get to 1,000 miles before I get it back home to Texas.

 

[19mustang65]

I have 5000 miles and havent gone over 50% throttle. I'm sure it's broken in but realistically there arent many reasons to go wide open and if you buy a hybrid you are trying to conserve fuel anyways.

 

[wax87]

Before I retired I'd get a new company car every 60K miles, which worked out to be about every year and a half. All I ever did was just drive it the way I was driving the one I turned in. Never had any issues or engine problems. Did have the drive shaft fall out of a Chrysler Cordova, and then there was all the tire problems, but nothing caused by a poor break in.

Yea but you are not trying to keep your vehicles for 200K plus miles. The break in period is not really for cars that you trade in but for cars you are going to hang on for a long time

 

[GPSMan]

I'll tell ya this.
The hybrid is almost always at 70% load.

Standing still and charging: 70% load.

25 mph residential: 70% load.
65 mph level freeway: 70% load.

Accelerating like an 18 wheeler: 70% load.

Accelerating briskly, not WOT, but normal freeway on ramp: 70% load.

It may be 65% at times or 75% at times.
But the "sweet spot" has been pre-programmed by Ford. You can probably hurt it by flogging it at WOT all the time.

But you can't really "baby it".
Or maybe 70% IS babying it.

 

[voldemartian]

I honestly don't believe in "Break in" for new vehicles. I have had several vehicles new and used and drove them all into 200k + mileage. I have never had any break in issues. I believe its just the manufactures way of mitigating liability for people driving like a maniac and having their vehicle break down multiple times in the first couple years. Just drive your new car normally and keep up with your fluid changes and you shouldn't ever have a problem. Maybe don't take it to the race track or on any off road trails until after a few tanks of gas.

 

[2517X]

I'll tell ya this.
The hybrid is almost always at 70% load.

Standing still and charging: 70% load.

25 mph residential: 70% load.
65 mph level freeway: 70% load.

Accelerating like an 18 wheeler: 70% load.

Accelerating briskly, not WOT, but normal freeway on ramp: 70% load.

It may be 65% at times or 75% at times.
But the "sweet spot" has been pre-programmed by Ford. You can probably hurt it by flogging it at WOT all the time.

But you can't really "baby it".
Or maybe 70% IS babying it.

My power meter rarely goes over 20%.

 

[SpaceCowboy]

First post in this forum....

I test engine for a living and have built many and owned many. Vehicles are so smart these days they could program a break in period if it was necessary. When you buy some new Seadoo products the break in is programmed into the ECU with the hour meter. It will limit RPM and have a different fueling strategy. I got my Maverick last night with 47 miles on it. It's probably already broke in. After it's been heat cycled 3 time and driven 15 miles under load....broke in.

In short...just drive it!

 

[GPSMan]

My power meter rarely goes over 20%.

I understand what you mean.
Power meter is a % of total power possible.

Load is how hard the engine is working.
It can be under high load at low rpm.
It can be under low load at high rpm.

We don't have gears. We have a computer controlling this.

A loaded engine is an efficient engine. It appears from programming you are getting the most bang for the buck, with this engine type, at about 70% load. Which is not meaning 70% of max rpm or horsepower.

 

[AutobahnSHO]

A loaded engine is an efficient engine. It appears from programming you are getting the most bang for the buck, with this engine type, at about 70% load. Which is not meaning 70% of max rpm or horsepower.

YES, this..

Generators run at a precise speed, jet engines have a 'sweet spot' for cruising, and gas engines do too.

Car builders nowadays aim for high hp# for advertising, good fuel economy on the EPA testing, and minimal breakdowns until the warranty runs out. I'd avoid "Italian tuneups" (WOT to >speedlimit) and try to not abuse it.

 

[GPSMan]

YES, this..

Generators run at a precise speed, jet engines have a 'sweet spot' for cruising, and gas engines do too.

Car builders nowadays aim for high hp# for advertising, good fuel economy on the EPA testing, and minimal breakdowns until the warranty runs out. I'd avoid "Italian tuneups" (WOT to >speedlimit) and try to not abuse it.

I don't see any disagreement here.

When the hybrid Maverick can't stay in it's sweet spot, it goes to EV mode.

If it can't go to EV it adds load by charging.

If it can't go to EV, and it can't charge, it changes gear ratio / rpm to stay in the sweet spot.

If the OBDII readout isn't lying, the sweet spot is 70%. I'd didn't make that number up. 90% of my 1 hour city drive my engine is at 70% or off.
The rest of the time is at 65% or 75%.

It's NEVER AT 25% or 100%.

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