another B&O upgrade question

[Rmnkys]

I am starting to design the stereo upgrade for my 2024 Lariat Hybrid. I did not specifically want the B&O system, but it came with this truck and want to completely redo it. I will be adding a new AMP (Wavetech link 1000.5), capacitor (due to being only able to run a max of 30 amps ), Sub of some sort and new speakers all around. I am wondering if anyone has removed the rear speakers and center channel from head unit power and added it to an aftermarket amplifier? I might not even use the center channel dash speaker.

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[MarcoG]

You moving into the truck? I'm no audiophile but geez?

 

[colinl]

You definitely do not need a capacitor with any modern class D sub amp.

And speaking of amps, I can't see a reason to pick that amp over something that has integrated DSP which runs the gamut from very cheap (Puzu) to very expensive (Audison or JL) with a lot of stuff in the middle like Kicker Key series, JBL, Alpine, Audiocontrol to name a few.

I am still using my B&O amp with a set of Focal RSE-165 components. Decide if you want to try that first. I replaced the center speaker, but it's still using the sync3 unit along with my factory rear speakers that are faded low.

If you're set on removing the factory amp, figure out if you're going to use a T-harness like a PAC AmpPro AP4-FD31, or something like a MoBridge DA-G2 which plugs into the A2B interface the factory amp uses with the sync3 APIM. I would only use a center with a DSP that has specific capability for a center channel speaker.

It will take new wiring to use an aftermarket amp with the center and/or rear speakers unless someone builds you a clever T harness. (I don't know of one premade.) I assume the center would be moderately difficult to wire, and I would guess if you pull the whole center stack HVAC and display you can fish easily to the center. The rear of course is easy to run new wire, but if you're getting a harness for the center, you could do the rear also and keep the factory stuff.

My hatred for the rear speakers is pretty well-known. Some idiots at Ford really thought it was a good idea to give up the 6.5" in the rear doors that the Bronco Sport has, and instead put in a (basically) freeair 4" located inches from a rear seat passenger's head. I would not spend time or money trying to make that work if you have rear seat passengers who want to enjoy music at reference level and louder.

 

[Rmnkys]

You definitely do not need a capacitor with any modern class D sub amp.

And speaking of amps, I can't see a reason to pick that amp over something that has integrated DSP which runs the gamut from very cheap (Puzu) to very expensive (Audison or JL) with a lot of stuff in the middle like Kicker Key series, JBL, Alpine, Audiocontrol to name a few.

I am still using my B&O amp with a set of Focal RSE-165 components. Decide if you want to try that first. I replaced the center speaker, but it's still using the sync3 unit along with my factory rear speakers that are faded low.

If you're set on removing the factory amp, figure out if you're going to use a T-harness like a PAC AmpPro AP4-FD31, or something like a MoBridge DA-G2 which plugs into the A2B interface the factory amp uses with the sync3 APIM. I would only use a center with a DSP that has specific capability for a center channel speaker.

It will take new wiring to use an aftermarket amp with the center and/or rear speakers unless someone builds you a clever T harness. (I don't know of one premade.) I assume the center would be moderately difficult to wire, and I would guess if you pull the whole center stack HVAC and display you can fish easily to the center. The rear of course is easy to run new wire, but if you're getting a harness for the center, you could do the rear also and keep the factory stuff.

My hatred for the rear speakers is pretty well-known. Some idiots at Ford really thought it was a good idea to give up the 6.5" in the rear doors that the Bronco Sport has, and instead put in a (basically) freeair 4" located inches from a rear seat passenger's head. I would not spend time or money trying to make that work if you have rear seat passengers who want to enjoy music at reference level and louder.

Thank you for the good information. Sounds like I might need to reconsider some things.

 

[colinl]

Thank you for the good information. Sounds like I might need to reconsider some things.

There are 2 threads you'll want to read to see how some pretty technical members here tuned their DSPs, but unfortunately neither of them started with B&O so it's not exactly the same.

Biggest difference is that you can choose whether to keep the center on the APIM, disconnect it entirely, or wire it up for an aftermarket amp. Second largest thing is that the stock B&O amp actually does pretty well with efficient 6.5 components up front; I've been pleased enough to put off an upgrade at least until I see if there's anything in MY25 I want to sell my truck & upgrade to get.

@Lane - using Alpine Optim8: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...-dsp-amp-lanes-review-thoughts-results.44462/

@snowkarver - using Audison Prima 8.9: https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/f...ed-audio-upgrade-with-before-after-rta.31655/

 

[JetFixxxer]

Is there any plug and play DSP for the B&O system?

Previously on my F150 I made the wiring harness, used this wire and molex. I also purchased this harness. Of course I had to adjust a few settings using ForScan. This round I'm lazy and want a true plug and play.

 

[Darnon]

Is there any plug and play DSP for the B&O system?

Previously on my F150 I made the wiring harness, used this wire and molex. I also purchased this harness. Of course I had to adjust a few settings using ForScan. This round I'm lazy and want a true plug and play.

There's a few designed to work with the A2B digital signal that should work from mObridge, NavTV, PAC, and Axxess. No one has used them and reported back, to my knowledge.

The Kicker Key 200.4 and PAC B&O wire harness adapter is nearly plug and play if you're fine with only bi-amping the front woofers/tweeters.

 

[Aaron F]

There's a few designed to work with the A2B digital signal that should work from mObridge, NavTV, PAC, and Axxess. No one has used them and reported back, to my knowledge.

The Kicker Key 200.4 and PAC B&O wire harness adapter is nearly plug and play if you're fine with only bi-amping the front woofers/tweeters.

I started with the B&O system and went with the PAC AmPro full upgrade. It was basically plug and play, wire it to a new amp, and decide how you are going to power all of your speakers. I decided on the Alpine Optim8 (which I now regret and am changing), Morel 4" replacements in the rear, Hertz Cento pro components up front, and an existing Audison 10" powered sub that I had from a previous vehicle. I am not utilizing the center speaker, as I don't ever use the stereo in surround mode. My issue with the Alpine amp is that I bought it to run the 2x150w channels to the mids in the front doors and was told by an alpine rep that this would be no problem. So then I was running 2x50 to the tweeters and 2x50 to the rears. When all connected, I was getting hardly any output from my front doors. After months of back and forth, Alpine admitted to my dealer that they were advising people only run subs on the 2x150 channels and that I wouldn't get rated power otherwise. If I faded from front to back, the 2 4" morels on 50 watts were louder than my front components on 400 watts total.

If I had the option to do it all over, I would replace the front speakers first, sound deaden the front doors, and just add a powered sub or sub/amp, and see if that got me enough listening pleasure. The reality seems to be that you can expect to spend over $2500 to integrate into the factory system and then re-amplify everything and upgrade your speakers, and that's on a budget.

 

[colinl]

If I had the option to do it all over, I would replace the front speakers first, sound deaden the front doors, and just add a powered sub or sub/amp, and see if that got me enough listening pleasure.

That's where I'm at right now and I'm pretty happy with it but there's always better.

If I used that amp I would probably run the Morel 2 ohm 3pc components that don't come with crossovers. Gets expensive fast, hah.

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