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This is NOT completely true. It all depends on the road. Most, NOT ALL, cars are actually designed with the alignment set neutral, so that the car, on a flat road, will go straight when you take your hands off the steering wheel. But on a road, say here in Arizona, that has a road crown in the middle of the road, between opposing directions of traffic, and since we drive on the right side of the road, the car will "drift" to the right when you let got of the steering wheel. When i was turning wrenches are cars here in AZ, we used to intentionally decrees positive caster on the drivers side suspension, causing the car to "pull" or "drift" left on a dead flat road, BUT when on a typical road here in AZ, the car would go dead straight, due to the road crown.
I typically set up my race cars and even street vehicles Neutral, which does cause me to have to "hold the steering wheel" slightly to the left on the typically crowned road here in AZ. Just the way i like them. My drift Jeep, which has about 9 degrees of positive caster, pulls pretty hard to the right, and the typically crowned AZ road.
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So angry lolWait, so you know more then the engineer that designed and engineered the tire?
Now im not at all saying, that what is on the door is wrong, so long as its the factory installed and engineered tires, but you do know that tire build up more heat quicker when they are underinflated, as opposed to overinflating them?
Oh and i would love to debate you on tires exploding from being overinflated.....
Those tires are 15psi over the "cold" recommended pressure on the side of the tire. I typically, depending on the turn, have anywhere between 80-120 MPH wheel speeds during a drift, and depending on the event, i run back to back to back for 45 mins to a hour, before having to change the tires due to wear. I run a small home made "tire sprayer" consisting of small windshield washer parts, to spray water on the tire between runs to prolong the life of the tread, but do not typically let the carcass of the tire cool.
When i bought my camry brand new it was not aligned correctly, just go back to dealer and ask for an aligment, ford should covered, easy.
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Is that a fucking Jeep Wrangler drifting?! See something new every day!Wait, so you know more then the engineer that designed and engineered the tire?
Now im not at all saying, that what is on the door is wrong, so long as its the factory installed and engineered tires, but you do know that tire build up more heat quicker when they are underinflated, as opposed to overinflating them?
Oh and i would love to debate you on tires exploding from being overinflated.....
Those tires are 15psi over the "cold" recommended pressure on the side of the tire. I typically, depending on the turn, have anywhere between 80-120 MPH wheel speeds during a drift, and depending on the event, i run back to back to back for 45 mins to a hour, before having to change the tires due to wear. I run a small home made "tire sprayer" consisting of small windshield washer parts, to spray water on the tire between runs to prolong the life of the tread, but do not typically let the carcass of the tire cool.
ROFL. No not at all. Just very passionate in helping people truly understand things that i know a bit about. An old timer once told me, "what's the point of having all this knowledge, if you don't share it, you just die with it."
technically a 1950-1953 Willys M38 Tub (Korean war) . But the frame is 100% made using 2"x4".120 wall mild steel tubing. Front suspension is from a 06 crown Victoria, rear suspension, is a S197 "style" 3 link, but with a Watts Link Track locator. Its a Twin 66mm turboed 5.3L LM7 Chevy "LS" engine, on a Holley Terminator X engine management, running on e85. Makes 786.9 wheel horsepower, 745 wheel foot pounds of torque, on 13 psi of boost. I used to drag race it, but redid the rear suspension, added a TR6060 6 speed manual, and added a second set of rear calipers with a sealed hand brake master to run them. Now i drift it. ROFL. I have had a "1450" 5.0l ranger, i off-road raced, have had very built Subaru's i auto X-ed and then also Rally X-ed, drag raced a lot of different things, and then i currently own a 2020 RZR Turbo 4 with long travel suspension, but Drifting is by FAR the most fun thing ive ever done.
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Set the tire pressure closer to the door sticker & see what changes, those stickers are not always the best though. When I bought my 04 Taurus I noticed it went for the ditch if I let go of the wheel, I had to always turn the wheel a tad to the left to keep it in the lane. A new car should not do that, at that time my father's 64 Fleetwood would go straight down the road if I let go of the wheel, a 40 year old car with worn suspension. After multiple trips to the dealer to complain, they gave me a loaner car the same as mine, it had the same issue, I was ready to trade the car, but thought maybe it was the tires. The issue was tire pressure, door jamb said 28psi & to me the front tires always looked low, so I inflated the tires all to 32 psi & the problem went away, it took me nearly 2 years to figure that out!
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The only thing adjusted on the factory production line is toe, the rest of the alignment settings are actually set by bulit trends from audits. So it is possible that you have a flyer that needs an alignment. You might try swapping front wheels from side to side. Several years back, the F-150 4x4s were have a simuliar problem. 90% of the time, swapping the high profile all-terrain tire, from side to side, solve the problem.
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